Following my late-summer adventures across Europe in 2018, I returned home to Denmark, to find out that my old friend and roommate, Cirpi had moved out and back to Romania. A few months back we had a falling out, but I felt like we were smoothing things out before my trip. Unfortunately that wasn’t the case, and our long-term friendship came to an end with my last message to him expressing my regret for the way things turned out for him, and wished him the best in his future endeavors. For me this moment marked the beginning of a soft reboot and a period of self-reflection.
Self-reflection
My past years in Denmark had been great overall, but ever since I had graduated, there was this steady slow decline. Most of it had to do with the fact that I had been looking for career opportunities for a year, with little to no success. It was clear by now that the job market for geologists in Denmark was extremely limited. However, without much hands-on experience, I couldn’t exactly land a job abroad either.
Having lived outside of Copenhagen for over a year, my fond memories of my time there had begun to fade into the ever-receding past. I suppose the breakup of one of my closest friendships was the final bell—the quiet signal that it was time for a soft reboot. A reset that meant releasing the past, both the good and the bad, and surrendering to the current of life, wherever it might carry me.
Aided by the seasonal shift in colors, the overlap between the autumn breeze and my melancholic self-reflection felt almost poetic at the time.
A soft reboot
I was alone with my thoughts once more—and maybe it was better that way. I had always functioned best in solitude. Perhaps it was time to take another leap, as I had with Denmark years before, and simply move to another country. My mind kept circling back to an idealized vision of New Zealand. Spurred on by the stories of others, I decided to apply for a working holiday visa later that year and take my chances there.
Of course, this wasn’t going to be as simple as it might sound. Romanians weren’t eligible for New Zealand’s working holiday visa. But as a Hungarian citizen—which I had become by then through my mother’s heritage—I had a narrow chance. The problem was that the number of visas available was extremely limited, and the application process had become a mad scramble. Each year, thousands raced to submit their forms within seconds, hoping to claim one of the coveted spots before the system crashed under the pressure.
Some of my friends in Denmark offered to help. I gave them all my personal details, and when the application window opened in November, we would all try at once—each of them applying in my name in the hopes that one of us might slip through the cracks. After all, I was up against the world, flooding New Zealand’s fragile servers in a chaotic race for a ticket into the unknown.
With a new plan quietly taking shape, I soon set off for Budapest to spend a week with my mom, who was visiting family and old friends there.
Budapest – a distant home
I’d always felt a strange, distant sense of home when it came to Budapest. There had always been some extended family or family friends living there, which meant I had visited the city a few times before. I remember spending over a week there as a kid—fragmented memories of the Danube splitting the city in two, the lush, hilly side of Buda connected to the flat, bustling Pest by a series of intricate bridges, each carrying its own quiet story. Now I was back as an adult, ready to rediscover the capital of one of my two homelands.
My visit began in the heart of the city, near the grand and meticulously ornate Parliament Building. Perched along the banks of the Danube, it stands as one of Europe’s largest and most striking legislative buildings—a towering neo-Gothic marvel with pointed spires, arched windows, and a glowing central dome that commands both reverence and curiosity.
Completed in 1904 after nearly two decades of construction, it was built to commemorate Hungary’s millennium of statehood and has since remained a symbol of national pride and political gravity. Walking along the promenade, I took in its detailed façade—the countless statues, intricate carvings, and symmetrical perfection evoking the weight of history. At night, when the lights shimmer off the Danube’s surface, the building almost appears otherworldly, like something conjured from the pages of a forgotten kingdom.
The Danube river
Further down the riverbank, the mood shifts. There, quietly embedded into the stone, are rows of iron shoes—scattered, empty, and solemn. The Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial marks the site where, during World War II, Jewish men, women, and children were lined up, forced to remove their shoes, and shot into the river by the fascist Arrow Cross militia. The shoes remain as haunting symbols of absence—small and large, worn and work-like, elegant and delicate—each one telling a story cut short. A harsh reminder of a not-so-distant dark time across Europe.
Beyond its role as witness to tragedy, the river has long been a vital artery of life in Europe. Winding through ten countries, it connects cultures, capitals, and centuries of movement. Originating in Germany’s Black Forest and flowing more than 2,800 kilometers to the Black Sea on the Romanian coast, it carries with it the echoes of empires, migrations, and trade routes that have shaped the continent for centuries. It is both boundary and bridge—a silent companion to cities and civilizations along its path.
One afternoon, we boarded a riverboat that glided steadily through the heart of the city. The ride offered sweeping views of Budapest’s most iconic landmarks—perfect for both quiet admiration and eager photo-taking. From the glinting spires of the Parliament Building to the imposing Buda Castle housing the History Museum, each structure seemed to rise with intention from the riverbank. Further along, the delicate arches of Fisherman’s Bastion crowned the hills above, and the city’s historic bridges spanned overhead like stone and metal ribbons.
Buda Castle and Its Surroundings
The next stop was Castle Hill on the Buda-side of the city. We began with a walk along the Fisherman’s Bastion, one of Budapest’s most picturesque landmarks. Built at the turn of the 20th century in a neo-Romanesque style, the Bastion resembles something out of a fairytale with its turrets, arches, and sweeping staircases.
Despite its medieval appearance, it was actually constructed more as a decorative viewing terrace than a defensive fortification—named in honor of the guild of fishermen who defended this stretch of the city wall during the Middle Ages.
From its balconies, we admired stunning panoramic views of the Pest side of the city. The Parliament Building gleamed in the sunlight, but another structure also stood out: the grand St. István’s Basilica, with its soaring dome dominating the skyline.
Named after Hungary’s first king, the basilica is one of the most important religious buildings in the country, housing the mummified right hand of Saint István himself. From a distance, its balanced architecture and massive dome lent a sense of calm majesty to the cityscape, like a spiritual anchor amidst the urban sprawl.
As we continued walking along the crest of the hill, we passed a large bronze sculpture of the Turul bird, wings outstretched in mid-flight, perched atop a tall pedestal. The Turul is a mythical creature in Hungarian folklore—part falcon, part eagle—and is said to have guided the ancient Magyars into the Carpathian Basin, marking the symbolic beginning of the Hungarian nation.
Eventually, we reached the Budapest History Museum, housed within the southern wing of the sprawling Buda Castle complex. Though its heavy stone walls and archways speak of centuries past, the museum inside holds the city’s evolving identity—from its Roman beginnings through medieval wars, Ottoman occupation, Habsburg rule, and modern reinvention.
Gellért Hill and the Citadel
One of ourWe decided to climb the hill on foot, following a zig-zagging trail that wound its way upward through leafy paths and scenic overlooks. final stops in Budapest was Gellért Hill, a prominent landmark rising steeply on the Buda side of the Danube. The hill is named after St. Gerard (Gellért), a missionary who, according to legend, was thrown to his death from the cliffs during a pagan uprising in the 11th century.
Today, the area is more peaceful—though still full of energy—known not only for its panoramic city views but also for its famed thermal springs. The Gellért Baths, located at the base of the hill and inside the famous Art Nouveau Hotel Gellért, are among Budapest’s most iconic spa complexes, tapping into the same geothermal waters that made the city renowned for its bathing culture.
We decided to climb the hill on foot, following a zig-zagging trail that wound its way upward through leafy paths and scenic overlooks. My mom was not thrilled by the high amount of steps to climb, but she soldiered through regardless. The top of Gellért Hill stands at around 235 meters above sea level, offering a commanding vantage point over the entire city, especially the illuminated bridges and riverside Parliament below. It was a proper leg workout, but the reward at the summit made every step worth it.
The end of this short journey
At the very top stands the Szabadság-szobor—the Liberty Statue—a towering female figure holding a palm leaf high into the sky. Originally erected in 1947 to commemorate Soviet “liberation” after World War II, it was later recontextualized after the fall of communism to honor all who sacrificed their lives for Hungary’s freedom and independence. Lit beautifully at night, the statue takes on an almost guardian-like presence, watching over the city as it sleeps.
On our way back, we had a bit of an adventure as we got on the wrong bus. Either it was the wrong bus, or we had to change buses at some point and completely missed the stop. My mom and I probably ended up talking too much as we usually do and forgot to get off. Once we realized, I suggested we just ride it out and wait for the bus to do its usual turn-around. At least we’d get a tour of regular ol’ northern Budapest. However, the bus never turned around. It just went all the way to it’s last stop at the outskirts of the city and parked in the terminal for the night. After explaining my stupidity to the driver he amusingly pointed to another bus we’d have to take all the way back.
Thus, with a touch of goofiness and adventure, my brief Budapest journey drew to an end, and I was bound for home—back to Denmark.
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Odyssian
An adventurous soul in a never ending quest to find home.