In my previous post on hiking in north-Transylvania I left off at the village of Firiza, located north of Baia Mare city. Firiza is a typical quiet, rustic north-Transylvanian village nested in the Firiza valley. The crossroads at the north-end of the village marks the end of the bus line. The east-bound road crosses the Black Valley (Valea Neagră), leading to a regionally well-known skiing resort, Staţiunea Izvoare. The north-bound road leads to the village of Blidari and theoretically goes much further to a very large and beautiful mountain plateau called Platou Runcu. However, I say theoretically because last I checked the road was so insanely bad that no normal car should attempt that and expect to make it out in one piece.
Luckily one doesn’t need to go all the way to Runcu for a wonderful hiking experience. At the northern edge of Blidari you can see a large rocky cliff from the road and you may think to yourself “Wow, that place must offer some great scenic views”, and you would be absolutely right! The exposed cliff is called Piatra Bulzului, which translates as the Bulz’s Stone and is a great medium difficulty day-hike from Blidari.
Piatra Bulzului, seen from the road in the Blidari valley, 2014
Piatra Bulzului
The hike to the cliff begins from the main road down in the Blidari valley. Just as you’re coming out of the village, there is an easy-to-miss sign pointing towards the forest. Turns out there’s actually a trail amid the thick bush and trees.
Hmm, now where could that sign be?
The first half an hour, or so you will follow a gentle slope up the mountain. Sporadic crooked wooden fences mark private property along the trail so make sure not to cross those. During the autumn season, the leaf-covered soil gives way to several types of mushrooms. Some edible and some not so much. Make sure to pack a book on identifying local mushrooms if you’re considering picking some!
Common puffball (edible mushroom) on the hiking trail to Piatra Bulzului
Wildlife
The second part of the journey takes you through the colorful beech and birch tree forest where you start getting glimpses of the surrounding mountains and hills. During this stretch, some of the slopes can be fairly inclined. You will also be fairly far away from any houses and human activity by this point, so there is a higher chance of encountering wildlife.
I’ve briefly discussed the dangers of wild boars while hiking in north-Transylvania. However, the Blidari region presents a new potential danger, namely Romania’s brown bear. Unfortunately, bear encounters have become more common over the last decades as human settlements continue to encroach on the bear’s habitat. Bears will generally try to avoid humans, so when hiking in bear territory it’s best to make noise and let your presence be known. I would also recommend packing a can of bear spray, just to be on the safe side.
Hiking up the trail
Reaching the top
The final stretch of the journey is marked by the increasing number of rock outcrops peeking out from under the blanket of leaves. As you get closer to the top, the outcrops grow in size and number. You will notice that all of the rocks here are mostly black, with some minor surface weathering. These rocks are basalts that formed during the Neogene volcanism, between 12 and 7 million years ago.
Rock outcrops near the top of the mountain
Before climbing the last narrow stretch up to the top, you can try to look for the hidden grot on the north-side of the cliff. Mind you, it’s not easy to find. When you’re ready, go on ahead and make the final climb along the large rocky outcrop. As you go up, the forest opens up to reveal a breathtaking view. Congratulations, you’ve reached the top of Piatra Bulzului!
South-facing view from Piatra Bulzului, autumn 2014
In the final part of my north-Transylvania series, I will take you on a steam-train ride along the Vișeu valley!
Traditional wooden shacks in Maramureș county, Romania
Looking back to my journey thus far in life, I can firmly say I have no regret leaving Romania. However, as with most places we leave behind, there are always going to be things we miss. For me, it’s hiking the beautiful regions of north-Transylvania. Specifically, Maramureș county, where I grew up.
Queen Mary Municipal Park, Baia Mare
One of my favorite places in my hometown, Baia Mare, was the Queen Mary Municipal Park situated at the northern tip of the town. I doubt most residents even know the name of the park, I sure didn’t, as we used to just refer to it as “The Park”.
This park itself features a small roman-catholic church by the main entrance, a kids playground and a little train looping inside the park for children to ride on. Additionaly, there is a private tennis-court, a small pond that has been rehabilitated a few years ago and is now full of exotic fish, as well as many walkways and a designated running lane. You can also find a couple of sculptures and statues of famous Romanian poets within the park, like Mihai Eminescu and George Coșbuc. Last, but not least, you can find three restaurants within the park’s confines: OAZIS Philia just by the main entrance, Bastion near the west-entrance and Athos at the heart of the park. Personally, I’ve only ever tried out Athos and the meal was excellent and well-priced. Oh, and they also have some really good ice-cream!
View of Baia Mare city from the west, 2019The little train in Queen Mary Municipal Park, Baia Mare, 2019
My true love for this park, however, comes from how its northern edge seamlessly transitions into the wild forests north of Baia Mare city. There is no fence, no marking, it just simply leads up a hill and then seems to go on forever – a park? or a gateway to freedom and adventure? – You be the judge!
Into the wilds
Following the main trail from the park up the hills you will soon reach a crossroads. To the left you may walk for a short while in the forest before you hit a bunch of residential houses. To the right the trail continues for a good 2-3 km before it end in the valley, at the old Usturoiul Cabin, which unfortunately burned down recently. A third option is to climb straight up the 450m hill atop which sits The Virgin Stone (Piatra Virgină), every local armature climbers go-to place. The hike up to the top can get quite steep at times, but the city-view from up there is completely worthwhile.
Autumn colors in north-Transylvania
I have ventured up the old hill many times in my youth. When I began exploring the wilds of north-Transylvania on my own, I continued on from The Virgin Stone on the path that leads north, up and down the leaf-blanketed hills, surrounded by oak trees and chirping birds. This northern trail goes parallel to the “Usturoiul” valley to the east and the “Valea Roșie” valley to the west. The crisscrossing path eventually leads to either the village of Ulmoasa to the northwest, or the Roman valley (Valea Romană) to the northeast.
Ulmoasa can also be reached via the “Usturoiul” valley on foot, or by bike. No matter which path you take, you will have a wonderful and wild experience. Keep an eye out for wildlife like deer and boars!
Animal-related dangers
You should be cautious of wild boars in the region, especially during spring when they are with young. Wild boars shouldn’t attack unless they feel that they, or their offspring’s are under threat. Personally, I’ve never had any problems with them in all my journeys and even spotted a herd of them once in this region. It is prudent, however, to have a response plan in case you end up in a nasty encounter with boars. You can read more about prevention and behavior during encounters with wild boar here.
One more thing to keep in mind whenever you hike the wilds of north-Transylvania is that meadows are often frequented by sheep herds. That means packs of guard dogs, and the shepherds are not always around, or paying attention. My advice is to keep your distance if you hear the little sheep-bells in the distance. It is best to avoid any unnecessary encounters with the dogs guarding them. Otherwise, pack your water bottle and follow me as we continue our journey through north-Transylvania in the next post!
