Hiking in north-Transylvania – Part 1
Looking back to my journey thus far in life, I can firmly say I have no regret leaving Romania. However, as with most places we leave behind, there are always going to be things we miss. For me, it’s hiking the beautiful regions of north-Transylvania. Specifically, Maramureș county, where I grew up.
Queen Mary Municipal Park, Baia Mare
One of my favorite places in my hometown, Baia Mare, was the Queen Mary Municipal Park situated at the northern tip of the town. I doubt most residents even know the name of the park, I sure didn’t, as we used to just refer to it as “The Park”.
This park itself features a small roman-catholic church by the main entrance, a kids playground and a little train looping inside the park for children to ride on. Additionaly, there is a private tennis-court, a small pond that has been rehabilitated a few years ago and is now full of exotic fish, as well as many walkways and a designated running lane. You can also find a couple of sculptures and statues of famous Romanian poets within the park, like Mihai Eminescu and George Coșbuc. Last, but not least, you can find three restaurants within the park’s confines: OAZIS Philia just by the main entrance, Bastion near the west-entrance and Athos at the heart of the park. Personally, I’ve only ever tried out Athos and the meal was excellent and well-priced. Oh, and they also have some really good ice-cream!
My true love for this park, however, comes from how its northern edge seamlessly transitions into the wild forests north of Baia Mare city. There is no fence, no marking, it just simply leads up a hill and then seems to go on forever – a park? or a gateway to freedom and adventure? – You be the judge!
Into the wilds
Following the main trail from the park up the hills you will soon reach a crossroads. To the left you may walk for a short while in the forest before you hit a bunch of residential houses. To the right the trail continues for a good 2-3 km before it end in the valley, at the old Usturoiul Cabin, which unfortunately burned down recently. A third option is to climb straight up the 450m hill atop which sits The Virgin Stone (Piatra Virgină), every local armature climbers go-to place. The hike up to the top can get quite steep at times, but the city-view from up there is completely worthwhile.
I have ventured up the old hill many times in my youth. When I began exploring the wilds of north-Transylvania on my own, I continued on from The Virgin Stone on the path that leads north, up and down the leaf-blanketed hills, surrounded by oak trees and chirping birds. This northern trail goes parallel to the “Usturoiul” valley to the east and the “Valea Roșie” valley to the west. The crisscrossing path eventually leads to either the village of Ulmoasa to the northwest, or the Roman valley (Valea Romană) to the northeast.
Ulmoasa can also be reached via the “Usturoiul” valley on foot, or by bike. No matter which path you take, you will have a wonderful and wild experience. Keep an eye out for wildlife like deer and boars!
Animal-related dangers
You should be cautious of wild boars in the region, especially during spring when they are with young. Wild boars shouldn’t attack unless they feel that they, or their offspring’s are under threat. Personally, I’ve never had any problems with them in all my journeys and even spotted a herd of them once in this region. It is prudent, however, to have a response plan in case you end up in a nasty encounter with boars. You can read more about prevention and behavior during encounters with wild boar here.
One more thing to keep in mind whenever you hike the wilds of north-Transylvania is that meadows are often frequented by sheep herds. That means packs of guard dogs, and the shepherds are not always around, or paying attention. My advice is to keep your distance if you hear the little sheep-bells in the distance. It is best to avoid any unnecessary encounters with the dogs guarding them. Otherwise, pack your water bottle and follow me as we continue our journey through north-Transylvania in the next post!