On the morning following our road trip to Briksdalsbreen, we were back in Fjærland. The plan was to drive back to Trondheim that day. On our drive back we would end up paying an unexpected visit to a very familiar place from back when we traveled to Norway the first time.
Before heading out, however, we had to pay the glaciers another visit. This time around we settled for a closer option and walked to the base of Bøyabreen glacier.
At a short distance from the Norwegian Glacier Museum, Bøyabreen is an arm of the the larger Jostedalsbreen Glacier. From the rainy clouds above thick blue ice lurched down the steep mountains towards the glacial lake beneath. Several streams originating from the ice sheet above came down the rocky cliffs forming series of thin waterfalls all around.
It was a splendid view. One that could only be honored with a photo reenactment of Michelangelo’s “The Creation of Adam”.
An unexpected visit to a familiar place
On our way back to Trondheim we stopped in a small town by the fjord to gas up the car. Since I wasn’t using my google maps back then as much as I do today, I had no idea where we were. Then Daniel pointed out that we were in fact back in Sogndalsfjøra.
With that realization came back the memories from our time there three years before. During our first adventure in Norway when we sought out fjords and mountains, Sogndalsfjøra was the furthest we got northwest. I brought up the idea of driving all the way back to Fagernes and our favorite campsite.
However, we still had a long drive to do back north to Trondheim. So we decided to skip on that idea. Still, it was great to see that little town filled with great memories.
Mountains and the church
On our way back north, we followed Lustrafjorden across the Jostedalsbreen National Park and passed into the Jotunheimen National Park. A stunning alpine wilderness renowned for its towering peaks, deep valleys, and pristine lakes, Jotunheimen is known as the “Home of the Giants”.
The rugged terrain of Jotunheimen is deeply rooted in Norse mythology as it was traditionally considered the realm of the Jötnar, the frost and rock giants. In Norse tales, the Jötnar were both adversaries and occasional allies of the gods. Thor, the god of thunder, frequently ventured into Jotunheim to battle these formidable beings, showcasing his strength and bravery. Meanwhile, Loki, himself of Jötunn descent, often served as a bridge between the two worlds, blending conflict with cunning alliances.
The park is a paradise for hikers and climbers, featuring 29 of Norway’s highest mountains, including Galdhøpiggen, the tallest in Northern Europe.
After crossing Jotunheimen we soon arrived in the village of Lom. There we made one final stop and visited Lom Stavkyrkje, one of the largest and best-preserved stave churches in Norway. Originally built in 12th century, its intricate carvings depict Christian symbols alongside Norse pagan motifs, reflecting the transitional period between paganism and Christianity in Norway.
Later modifications added medieval touches such as extended aisles and windows. The interior also reflects a more medieval and Renaissance style including painted decorations, artifacts and a preserved altarpiece.
Shopping across borders
The following day Daniel needed to do some bulk grocery shopping, so we hopped into the car and paid Sweden an unexpected visit… Yeah, so apparently it’s a fairly common thing for Norwegians living close to the border to cross over to Sweden to do their bulk shopping since it’s significantly cheaper. In fact, there are even dedicated shopping centers on the Swedish side built close to the border for this specific purpose. One of them was located in the small town of Storlien, about a one and a half hour drive from Trondheim.
The weather was much better that day. Mostly sunny, with just a few scattered clouds. The landscape was quite impressive as well. Rounded, rocky mountains stuck out from the vibrant autumn colored vegetation and swampy terrain stretching in all directions.
At this point we had crossed over to Sweden and my adventure senses were tingling. I managed to talk Daniel into hiking one of the nearby nameless mountains. So we set off through the bushy and hilly terrain, munching on plenty of blueberries along the way.
As far as the eye could see, there was nothing but pristine wilderness. The walk reminded me of our Borgund mountain hike from three years before. Once more it felt like we were the only people around for hundreds of miles. Quiet, peaceful, tranquil. Well, as long as you ignored the main road we started walking from.
After reaching one of the cliffs and fulfilling our daily adventure-o-meter, we were ready to head back and finish our grocery shopping quest.
Trondheim
I spend the rest of my remaining time in Norway in and around Trondheim. In the evening, Daniel took me to one of his favorite spots on the fjord to show off his highly improved fishing skills. By this point he was apparently becoming quite the fisherman, but alas, no fish were caught that night.
On my last day we strolled around in Trondheim’s city center. One of the most iconic buildings was Nidaros Cathedral. An impressive Gothic/Romanesque cathedral, Nidaros has been a sacred site for pilgrims throughout the middle ages. The cathedral also stands as a symbol of Norwegian national identity and heritage where most of the country’s monarchs have been consecrated throughout its history.
Apart from religious services and royal ceremonies, the cathedral also hosts numerous cultural events year round. These events range from concerts to art shows, with the most famous one being the annual St. Olav Festival, which includes medieval markets and special church services.
Another iconic part of Trondheim is the neighborhood of Bakklandet. Located on the east side of the Nidelva River, just across from the city center, the area features a set of 17th century colorful wooden houses with cultural significance. The vibrant color style reminded me of other famous Scandinavian neighborhoods, like Nyhavn in Copenhagen, Denmark.
After strolling around the city for half the day, it was once more time for me to depart Norway. I knew I was going to come back again, sooner or later. But for now, I had to return to my life in Denmark.
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Odyssian
An adventurous soul in a never ending quest to find home.
