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A Summer of Two Worlds

0 A Summer of Two Worlds

By the time May came to an end, Montreal was beginning to feel like home. I had explored my new surroundings, made some new connections, and already packed an absurd amount of adventure into my first month. But my new life had another side to it.

Every two weeks, I would leave the city behind and disappear into the wilderness of northern Quebec, trading cafés, concerts and city streets for drill rigs, helicopters, mosquitoes and twelve-hour shifts. Then, two weeks later, I’d return to Montreal and slip back into a completely different world. I hadn’t really appreciated it at first, but over the course of that summer I was beginning to build two lives simultaneously.

Summer in the North

Summer was the busiest time of year for us at work. It was essentially the only part of the year when extensive field work was possible, once the snow had finally disappeared and the landscape became accessible again. It was also the best season for drilling, so the entire exploration program ramped up: prospecting, geological mapping, sampling and drilling were all happening at once.

Northern Quebec. Land of lakes and trees

Our team grew considerably as well. A group of students joined us for summer internships, helping with field work, while several seasonal workers came aboard as additional technicians, geologists and support staff. As the exploration program ramped up, more and more helicopters began appearing around the camp.

We weren’t the only ones busy. Another company was also operating out of Mirage and exploring the surrounding area, bringing their own large crews and equipment. At the height of summer, there must have been six or seven helicopters flying around the area. It was crazy to watch.

Our growing fleet of helicopters

What had started as a relatively small operation had transformed into a miniature aerial traffic network in the middle of northern Quebec.

A Taste of Everything

My shifts mostly remained on the familiar two-weeks-on, two-weeks-off rotation, with one particularly memorable exception: a four-week stint that felt like an eternity by the time it was over.

Most of us were rotated between the core shack and field work, which I actually preferred. The constant change kept things fresh. There is only so long you can perform the same repetitive tasks inside a garage, twelve hours a day, before time itself seems to slow down and your mind begins to feel trapped in a depressive eternity of repetition.

Overcast days brought better temperatures, but more bugs

Field work was a very different beast. Every day brought something different, but it was also considerably more physically demanding. Long hikes through difficult terrain, coupled with weather that could swing from hot and humid to miserably wet, made even relatively simple tasks exhausting.

Then there was channel sampling.

The process began with digging trenches through the soil to expose the underlying bedrock. On a hot, sunny day, this was simply brutal manual labor, with sweat pouring down us as we hacked away at the ground. On an overcast and rainy day, it became a battle against mud and rapidly filling trenches.

Once the trench was prepared and the sampling boundaries marked, we reached what I considered the peak back-breaker of the operation. Holding a large rock saw, bent over an outcrop for hours at a time, we would cut channels through the exposed rock to obtain representative samples. We took turns, of course, but there was usually one more experienced or physically fit person who ended up doing most of the cutting, while the other person performed the considerably less glamorous task of continuously spraying water onto the blade.

Geared up and ready to fly out

And naturally, all of this happened while fully clothed and often wearing a bug net to protect ourselves from the millions upon millions of winged, blood-sucking insects that seemed to follow us around like a dark cloud of torment.

Work was hard. But it was never boring.

Beyond the Core Shack

Every now and then I also got to take on some of the more auxiliary outdoor tasks.

Some were directly related to drilling, such as scouting and spotting new drill holes or carrying out borehole deviation surveys once a hole had been completed. Others were less technical: long drives to exchange crews, or chauffeuring investors, clients and other visitors around the various sites.

Paying a visit to one of the drilling rigs

I really came to appreciate the sheer variety of the work. There was always something different to do, somewhere different to go, or something new to learn. Compared with the repetitive routine of some other jobs, the diversity of tasks was one of the things I enjoyed most about working for this company.

There was simply never a dull moment.

Off on another errand

Meanwhile, life inside the core shack continued to evolve as well. As we became more familiar with the workflow, we were constantly looking for little things we could improve. Sometimes that meant building an extra table or stand to make a particular task easier. Other times it was simply about making the workplace a little more comfortable.

It was beginning to feel less like a temporary workplace and more like something we were collectively building. And as our little work family grew closer, the post-work entertainment started evolving too.

Northern Quebec Cinema

One of the big hits in 2022 was movie night.

We had a projector sitting around that wasn’t being used, along with a massive garage door. Once we found a large white canvas to cover it, we had everything we needed for the ultimate northern Quebec cinema. It was… unconventional.

The canvas was thin enough that some of the thick tags and markings that had accumulated on the garage door over the years remained visible through it. Depending on the movie, these strange shadows and shapes could turn what was supposed to be a terrifying horror scene into an unintentionally hilarious comedy.

Then there were the sounds. The garage had a habit of producing its own soundtrack, with random machinery, water sprayers and other mysterious noises occasionally bubbling, rattling or squeaking in the middle of a movie.

It wasn’t exactly Hollywood. But those nights were a blast.

Two Lives

When I started this job, I hadn’t really intended to make friends.

That sounds harsher than I mean it. I obviously wanted to be friendly with my colleagues and get along with the people I worked with. But I deliberately wanted to keep my work friendships separate from my personal life. I didn’t want the same group of people I spent two weeks living and working alongside to also become my entire social circle back home.

Birdy nesting in the heli mechanic’s shack

Part of my reasoning was practical. In a work environment where people live together, work together and spend long stretches of time in close quarters, friendships can become an all-consuming social ecosystem. And while that can be great when everything is going well, I could also imagine how easily personal disagreements or drama could spill back into the workplace.

I wanted a boundary. Work was work. Home was home.

The irony, of course, was that I was beginning to develop a genuine social life in both worlds anyway.

The Transtaiga turnoff on the Bill Diamond Highway

There was a strange duality to my life during this period. At work, I was highly active and constantly engaged. I was surrounded by geology, field work, helicopters, drill rigs and people for twelve hours a day. There was always something happening, and I was generally in a very outgoing, energetic state.

Then I would return to Montreal and my other self would emerge.

At home, I naturally slipped back into my more introverted and sedentary mode. I enjoyed having my own space, spending quiet evenings by myself and generally doing very little when I wasn’t actively pursuing something. I wasn’t unhappy or antisocial; I simply needed considerably more motivation to turn an idea into an actual social outing.

Sunset view during one of my drives

The problem was that building a social life from scratch requires exactly that: getting off the couch and actually going somewhere. Fortunately, I had a plan.

Finding People in Montreal

Making new friends had generally come fairly easily to me, but bars and clubs had never been my thing. If I was going to meet people, I needed a different approach.

Enter the glorious Meetup app. I’d briefly used Meetup back in Denmark after a friend recommended it, so when I arrived in Montreal I decided to see what was available. Quite a lot, as it turned out.

Monument to Sir George-Étienne Cartier, northeast Mount Royal

Montreal had an active social scene built around all sorts of groups and activities. There were people organizing city walks, bowling nights, debates, bar meetups and countless other gatherings. It was practically a buffet of opportunities for someone trying to build a social life from scratch.

This was the way.

Over the following months, whenever I was in Montreal, I joined whatever outings caught my interest. I met quite a few people and made plenty of friendly acquaintances. But there was one persistent problem. My work schedule.

Eastern view of Montreal from Kondiaronk Belvedere

I’d go out, meet someone interesting, have a great conversation and perhaps suggest doing something again. Then I’d disappear back into northern Quebec for two weeks or more. By the time I returned, I would finally work up the energy to organize a spontaneous get-together, only to discover that they already had plans.

“How about next weekend?”

Sure. Except by next weekend, I would be back at work again.

Street Art is a big thing in Montreal, and the city has a lot of great hidden gems like this one

My two-weeks-on, two-weeks-off schedule simply didn’t fit neatly into the rhythm of normal Monday-to-Friday life. Other people could casually make plans for next Saturday. For me, next Saturday could mean being several hundred kilometres into the wilderness.

I was meeting people. I was making connections. But turning those connections into proper friendships was proving considerably more difficult.

Exploring Montreal Further

Of course, my inability to coordinate with other people didn’t mean I had nothing to do. My unusual schedule left me with entire stretches of weekdays free, and I quickly realized there was no reason to wait for the weekend to explore Montreal.

One of the places I finally returned to was Saint Joseph’s Oratory. I’d first spotted the enormous basilica during my early exploration of Montreal, but at the time the construction work in front of it had made the entrance seem inaccessible. This time I found another approach, following Chemin de la Côte-des-Neiges around Mount Royal before cutting through Summit Woods and approaching the Oratory from behind.

And suddenly, there it was. The great dome rose above the trees and residential houses. No construction site blocking the approach this time.

The massive dome of Saint Joseph’s Oratory

Behind the basilica I discovered something I hadn’t expected: a peaceful enclosed garden known as the Garden of the Way of the Cross. It was apparently designed as an outdoor setting for the traditional Stations of the Cross, with a winding path through the greenery accompanied by a series of large sculptures.

The sculptures were scattered among trees, shrubs and winding paths, giving the whole place an almost secluded atmosphere despite being surrounded by one of the busiest parts of Montreal. There were flowers and patches of carefully maintained greenery everywhere, but the scale of the sculptures made the garden feel more like an open-air gallery than a conventional park.

Sculptures in the Garden of the Way of the Cross

It was one of those unexpected little discoveries that made wandering around Montreal so rewarding. You could leave a busy street, disappear into a patch of greenery and suddenly find yourself somewhere that felt completely removed from the city.

A World of Gardens

Another day took me east toward Montreal’s Olympic Park and the Montreal Botanical Garden.

This was another one of those places where I quickly realized that I had underestimated just how much there was to see. The garden occupies roughly 75 hectares and contains around thirty thematic gardens, an arboretum and numerous exhibition greenhouses.

Deep red and lime-edged coleus at the Montreal Botanical Garden

Rather than feeling like one enormous conventional flower garden, it was more like a collection of different worlds stitched together into one sprawling landscape. Different sections had their own character, vegetation and design philosophy, so walking from one area to another could feel like stepping into an entirely different environment.

There were gardens dedicated to plants native to Quebec and North America, collections of medicinal plants, alpine plants, roses and other specialized flora. Elsewhere, the landscape became increasingly exotic. The Indigenous Peoples Garden explored the relationships between First Peoples and the plant world, while the Chinese Garden used traditional landscape principles, ponds, bridges and classical structures to create something that felt almost theatrical.

The Chinese Garden sections felt like stepping into another world

The Japanese Garden was more restrained. Its carefully arranged trees, shrubs, stones, streams and waterfalls created a much quieter and more meditative atmosphere. There was also a collection of bonsai and penjing that I found particularly interesting, with miniature trees painstakingly shaped to resemble their much larger counterparts.

And then there was simply the sheer amount of space. Paths wound through trees and flowerbeds in every direction, with benches and quiet corners scattered throughout. I could spend hours wandering without feeling as though I was retracing the same route.

Mini maple tree in the Japanese Garden section

The Botanical Garden also housed the Insectarium, as part of a much larger complex of attractions around the Olympic Park, including the Biodôme and Planetarium. I didn’t visit the Insectarium on this particular day, though I would eventually return to the area and give some of those other attractions the attention they deserved.

For now, I was perfectly happy just wandering through this enormous collection of plants and gardens. But while I was becoming increasingly comfortable exploring Montreal on my own, I was also slowly beginning to establish a few connections outside of work.

A Day on Île Notre-Dame

One of the people I met was Adam, a Canadian from out west who had recently moved to Montreal looking for a change of scenery. We had met at one of the Meetup social gatherings, and eventually arranged another outing together at Parc Jean-Drapeau.

This time I got to discover the second major island of Montreal’s downtown recreation complex: Île Notre-Dame. We had initially come simply to cool off on a warm summer afternoon at the island’s beach. But, as I was beginning to discover, Montreal had a habit of hiding considerably more interesting things behind seemingly ordinary places.

More cool street art from Montreal

Île Notre-Dame turned out to be a rather bizarre collection of attractions. There were the Olympic Basin, built for the 1976 Montreal Olympics and used for rowing and other aquatic sports; the Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve, the Formula 1 race track that winds around the island but spends much of the year open to cyclists, runners and pedestrians; and, somewhat incongruously, the Casino de Montréal.

After cooling off in the lake, Adam and I decided to investigate the casino. I’d never actually been inside one before, so I was curious to see what the place was like. The casino occupied the former French pavilion from Expo 67, a suitably futuristic-looking building that had been repurposed into Quebec’s first government-run casino in 1993. It had since expanded into the neighboring former Québec pavilion, creating a sprawling multi-level entertainment complex.

Inside, there were floors of flashing electronic games and slot machines, along with the more traditional tables. Blackjack and roulette seemed to be particularly popular, with crowds gathered around the tables and people watching every move.

I was mildly disappointed not to see any poker tables. Maybe there was a secluded poker room somewhere that I simply never found. Or perhaps I was just looking in the wrong place.

The Casino also had a bunch of these places to pose for photos, so we couldn’t resist

Either way, neither Adam nor I had any intention of seriously gambling. We decided to each sacrifice about twenty dollars to the gods of probability, with the agreement that if either of us somehow doubled his money, we’d cash out and treat ourselves to dinner.

The casino had other plans. Our machines swallowed the money remarkably efficiently. No jackpot. No fancy dinner. Just free coffee and tea. Honestly, not the worst gambling loss imaginable.

The Idea of Seeing Clearly

Somehow, between exploring Île Notre-Dame, cooling off at the lake and donating twenty dollars to the Casino de Montréal, the subject of eyesight came up.

McGill University in Montreal — one of Canada’s top Universities

I’d worn glasses for most of my adult life and had never been particularly fond of them. They had simply become something I accepted as part of everyday life. Every now and then, though, I’d entertain the idea of getting rid of them permanently. Corrective laser surgery had been sitting somewhere in the back of my mind for years, waiting for some combination of money, trust and courage to make it happen.

Adam’s response was remarkably straightforward. “Why don’t you just get LASIK?” He had already undergone the procedure himself in Montreal and spoke extremely highly of the clinic and its surgeons. He had even specifically researched one particular surgeon, Dr. Bashur, whom he considered to be among the best in the world.

Adam had specifically asked for Bashur himself, but ended up having the procedure performed by his apprentice. The second-best surgeon in the world. At least according to Adam.

Saint Joseph’s Oratory from the Garden of the Way of the Cross

Jokes aside, his recommendation got me seriously thinking. I’d already been considering LASIK for years, but hearing about someone’s firsthand experience — and learning that Montreal indeed had some very highly regarded specialists — pushed the idea much further forward.

And as it turned out, Adam wasn’t going to be the only person encouraging me to take the plunge. Around the same time, the subject came up at work as well.

1000 Rue De la Gauchetière Business Center

I’d been talking with our project manager when he pointed something out to me on a laptop screen. Without my glasses, I couldn’t make out what he was showing me from a few meters away and had to lean practically into the screen to see it. He then rather unexpectedly, gave me almost exactly the same advice.

He had recently undergone LASIK himself and described it as a life-changing experience.

Suddenly I had two people, from the two very different worlds I’d been trying so hard to keep separate, independently recommending the same thing. Maybe the universe was trying to tell me something.

Mary, Queen of the World Cathedral, downtown Montreal

So I decided to listen. It would still take some courage and research on my own part to actually go through with it.

Taking the Plunge

I started doing some serious research into LASIK and, before long, booked an evaluation at a Montreal clinic. The consultation involved a series of tests and scans to assess whether I was actually a suitable candidate. They found that I had both astigmatism and hypermetropia. The astigmatism could apparently be corrected very effectively, while the hypermetropia was a little trickier and meant the result might not be quite as perfect. Still, they expected the procedure to improve my vision substantially and, most importantly, potentially leave me without any need for glasses in everyday life.

That was good enough for me. The clinic and its surgeons also came highly recommended, which helped settle the remaining doubts. I decided to go ahead and booked the surgery for a couple of months later. My nervously joking statement to them was simply: “Please try not to blind me.”

Researching how the procedure worked was unnerving at first, but I soon managed to tap into my inner curiosity. After watching several rendered videos showing the process step by step, I gradually stopped shuddering at the thought of a blade cutting into my eyeballs.

It really was, and still is, I think, the blade aspect that gives people the heebie-jeebies when they think about LASIK. The laser ablation is more abstract. A blade, however, is something everyone can instinctively understand as a sharp, piercing object being brought anywhere near the most vulnerable parts of the human body.

A Gift From the Heavens

With the surgery still several weeks away, life carried on as usual. I returned to northern Quebec for another rotation, and for the moment, LASIK became something lurking somewhere in the back of my mind rather than the immediate concern it would eventually become.

Dusk in Northern Quebec

Then, completely unexpectedly, something rather more exciting came out of nowhere.

Adrien, my old friend from Chicoutimi, sent me a message asking if I’d be interested in a free ticket to a metal concert in Montreal. He was supposed to go himself, but couldn’t make it because of his work schedule — the same kind of two-weeks-on, two-weeks-off life that I was living. Since it was fairly short notice, he was simply going to give the ticket away.

The gesture itself was already incredibly generous. But the band… the band elevated this act to something approaching a gift from the heavens. It was Rammstein.

Love them or hate them, Rammstein are one of the biggest names in metal. They are also famous for putting on some of the most spectacular live shows on the planet, combining their heavy music with elaborate theatrics, enormous stage effects, and enough fire and pyrotechnics to make the average concert look like a school talent show.

Nicknamed the Bumblebee, this Bell 212 was the biggest helicopter we ever had on the project. Only available option at the time. Looked and sounded badass… and cost the project a small fortune

I was speechless. Of course I accepted. My shift would end a few days before the concert, so the timing worked out perfectly. Respect and a huge shout-out to my man Adrien. Thanks again for the fantastic gift!

The Build-Up

The spontaneous concert gave me something else to occupy my mind during my August time off. Work helped too. When I was up north, I could completely immerse myself in work and shut out everything happening back home, including the surgery slowly approaching on the horizon. It made the waiting period considerably easier.

The Bumblebee in action. Slinging equipment in the field

I also discovered that one of my colleagues, let’s call him Max, who I had gradually become friends with, was going to the concert as well. So on the evening of August 21, we met up and, together with some of his friends, headed toward the mass of people gathering on Saint Helen’s Island at Parc Jean-Drapeau.

The sheer scale of the event was already obvious on the metro. The trains heading toward Jean-Drapeau were packed with metalheads of every variety.

Once we reached the island, things got even more serious. The whole setup looked less like an ordinary concert and more like a small temporary festival. Booths and bars lined the walkways toward the stage, selling merchandise, food and drinks, while tens of thousands of people gradually packed into the enormous concert area.

And then there was the stage.

The Towering Black Citadel

Rammstein had brought their enormous custom-built stadium production with them, designed specifically around the band’s particular brand of theatrical insanity. A towering central structure dominated the scene, crowned by the giant illuminated Rammstein logo. The whole thing looked less like a stage and more like some enormous industrial fortress that had been dropped into the middle of the island.

The mythical Rammstein stage in all its glory

There was a very good reason for that. Rammstein’s pyrotechnics are so extensive that the production is effectively built around them. The 2022 stage incorporated specially engineered pyro systems and custom touring structures, with the central tower alone rising roughly fifty meters into the air. The Montreal production was around sixty meters wide, and getting the whole monster from one city to the next required a staggering logistical operation.

The area in front of the stage was divided into several sections. The very front was the infamous Feuerzone, essentially the place where you voluntarily paid extra to stand closer to the flames. We had regular tickets, but managed to squeeze our way nearly to the front of our section. This was as close as we could get to the stage. Two enormous towers stood on either side of us, already giving us a pretty good indication of what was about to happen.

As dusk settled over Montreal, the lights came on.

The beginning of a word-class spectacle

Then, with the thunderous roar of more than forty thousand of people, Rammstein took the stage.

A Night of Fire

Rammstein had been one of the first bands that got me into metal nearly two decades earlier. My musical tastes had long since moved toward more technical and complex styles, but they had, and always would remain an iconic and legendary band for me.

Standing there in front of that mighty stage, headbanging alongside thousands of other fans while hearing their music performed live, felt like a genuinely historic experience.

A night to remember

Max and I sang along to most of the songs. Well… sang is perhaps being generous. We shouted the lyrics in tandem, in our respective broken and mediocre German.

Meanwhile, every song seemed to have its own visual identity. The stage constantly transformed between pulsating light shows and what looked like an enormous industrial furnace. As the music intensified, flames erupted not only from the main stage but from the towers on either side of us as well, blasting heat into the night and illuminating the sky.

Like a raging industrial furnace the stage blasted fire and smoke from everywhere

We could feel the heat even from where we stood. I could only imagine what the people in the VIP section directly in front of the stage were experiencing. Absolute pyrotechnic madness. And it was glorious.

Adieu

From beginning to end, it was easily the grandest spectacle I had ever attended. I dare say it was one of the greatest live shows ever.

We later heard that the concert had been so loud that residents of Longueuil, across the St. Lawrence River, had complained about the noise. Considering the concert was taking place on an island with no residential neighborhood immediately surrounding it, that was quite an achievement in itself.

After roughly two hours of adrenaline-pumping spectacle, the show eventually reached its emotional finale. The final song was Adieu.

Fittingly enough, the title itself seemed almost tailor-made for the occasion.

End credits rolling after a phenomenal performance

The song stayed with us long after the concert was over. In fact, my colleague and I liked it so much that it eventually became something of a ritual at work. For months afterward, we’d play Adieu on our last day before heading off for our time off.

The song had become the unofficial soundtrack to saying goodbye to another rotation.

The concert had been absolutely epic, and I genuinely hope Adrien eventually got to experience it himself. It was one of those shows that I think every metalhead should see at least once in their lifetime.

The Season Begins to Wind Down

The summer had passed, and early September found me back up north for another rotation. The field season was gradually winding down, the air was getting noticeably colder. My LASIK appointment was no longer some distant event sitting on the calendar. It was getting close.

Fortunately, there was still plenty of work to keep my mind occupied. By this point, my paperwork with the Ordre des géologues du Québec had finally been approved, and I had officially moved into the exploration geologist role. After months of working in the core shack and watching the other geologists log, I was finally getting to do it myself.

Mad scientist with a hand-held “laser gun”

It was a transition I had been looking forward to since early summer. I had spent a lot of time observing how the others approached their logs, comparing their interpretations with what I could see in the core and gradually developing my own ideas about how I would approach the same task. Now I finally had the opportunity to put all of that accumulated knowledge into practice.

The learning curve seemed mild and enjoyable. Just as teching had eventually turned into a little friendly competition, logging soon became its own informal race. How much core could you get through? How quickly could you log it without sacrificing quality? Who was the fastest logger in this part of the core shack?

It was another welcome distraction from the increasingly imminent LASIK appointment.

Team Dynamics

The team itself had also continued to evolve. One of the newer additions over the summer was a French geologist I had become quite friendly with. I’ll call him Luc. He had previously worked for another exploration company before joining us, along with several other French colleagues.

The all too familiar bridge just before Mirage — a place we’d sometimes stroll across for an evening walk after work

Interestingly, that was the same company I had nearly ended up working for earlier that year, before ultimately accepting the position that brought me to Mirage. Hearing Luc and the others talk about their experiences there made me realize just how close I had come to taking a very different path. Let’s just say that, in hindsight, I had apparently dodged a fairly substantial bullet.

Luc and I also discovered that we shared a similar brand of European humor, which made working together particularly entertaining. We were both fairly ambitious and competitive by nature, and that attitude quickly found its way into more than just our geological work. Before long, we were competing over logging speed and quality during the day, and occasionally recreational activities after hours.

The Garage Gym

There wasn’t really a gym at Mirage, or at least, not much of one at the time. So, as usual, we improvised.

I had been pushing for more regular workouts after our shifts, partly because I genuinely wanted to train and partly because getting other people involved gave me an extra reason to do it myself. We used whatever we could find around camp. For a while, some wide wooden beams served as our pull-up bars. The garage door also became an improvised piece of strength-training equipment.

At one point, Luc and I turned one-arm shoulder presses into yet another completely unnecessary competition. He won… by just one repetition. Considering that we were both taking the whole thing far more seriously than was remotely necessary, I was ridiculously proud of how close it had been. I suspect he was a little surprised too.

Drilling day and night

The improvised workouts became another small part of our routine. Nothing fancy, nothing resembling a proper gym, but it gave us something physical to do after twelve-hour shifts and another excuse to mess around with each other.

Looking back, it was these little things that made the camp experience so enjoyable. We were working hard, but we were also gradually developing our own routines, competitions and inside jokes. But the work shift wasn’t going to last forever. Soon enough, I was back on the plane, heading home to Montreal and I had a rather intimidating appointment waiting for me in just a few days.

The Night Before

I lay in bed the night before the procedure, trying to calm my nerves. Slowly coming to grips with the fact that it was out of my hands now. I wasn’t going to chicken out at the last minute. After all, I was going to be in the hands of some very highly qualified professionals… who hopefully wouldn’t leave me blind.

Oh well. At least I got to see Rammstein live with my own eyes. What more could I ask for?

What will be will be.

The Waiting Game

At the LASIK clinic on the day of the surgery, I spent a considerable amount of time signing various forms and papers across different offices, as well as paying the hefty sum for the procedure. Each checkpoint brought me one step closer to the surgery. And each step came with another stretch of waiting. The waiting was the worst part. It gave my imagination more time to come up with things to worry about.

At the time I felt like I was sitting on this guy — porcupine sculpture at the Montréal Botanical Garden

The staff knew this quite well and offered patients a Xanax pill if they wished. Despite my nervousness, however, I refused it. Was it my stubbornness? Hard-headedness? Was I trying to prove some macho point to myself? I don’t know. All I know is that I wanted to confront the whole thing with a clear mind and remain fully aware of what was happening.

Eventually, after the long paper trail, I found myself sitting in a sofa chair in the dimly lit hallway next to the operating room. I watched the patients ahead of me go through the various stages before entering the room myself. Eventually, the nurse came to me.

I tilted my head back as instructed so she could put the local anaesthetic drops into my eyes. Except “drops” wasn’t really the right word. It felt more like a water fountain of liquid solution being blasted directly into my eyeballs. She kindly reminded me to keep my eyes open. I did my best to comply, despite my eyes being absolutely drenched in the stuff.

After the eye shower, I didn’t immediately feel anything. The nurse told me it would start feeling a little strange. Within a couple of minutes, it sure did.

My eyes after the anesthetic drops… basically this well (Montreal Botanical Gardens)

The best way I can describe it is that my eyes felt drunk. My brain and everything else felt completely normal, conscious and aware, yet my eyes somehow felt as though they were floating independently of the rest of me. Weird stuff.

A few minutes later, I was invited into the operating room.

Meet the Best in the World

The surgeon introduced himself as Dr. Bashur, the best in the world. I replied “Oh, I know. I read your résumé.” What a boss introduction. Somehow, that immediately made me feel more relaxed.

The room itself had a very calming ambience. The lighting was dim and warm, and the whole place genuinely felt inviting. I had to give them credit: they were doing a very good job of making what was about to happen feel considerably less terrifying.

Soon enough, I was lying down on the operating table and receiving instructions from the staff. They gently positioned my head into the support apparatus and secured it in place. At one point, I recall Dr. Bashur asking me to blink. So I did. Awkwardly. “No, no. Blink normally.” I tried again. “Is that normal?” I started laughing. Apparently I had forgotten what normal, relaxed blinking was like.

Once I passed the blinking test, they prepared my eyes for the procedure and somehow secured my eyelids in place. I’m not entirely sure what mechanism they used; I remember feeling some light pressure, but there was no real discomfort.

Then came the most important instruction: don’t blink, and simply stare at the green light on the optics of the laser device that had been brought up close to my face. They even gave me a stress ball and told me that if I felt the urge to blink, I could simply squeeze it instead.

My mission objectives were clear. Stare at the green dot at all costs. No blinking. I was in a video game.

Then they began talking to each other in their strange alien doctor language, throwing around various technical terms that I couldn’t understand.

Mad Scientist Mode

After all the videos I’d watched, I had the entire procedure more or less memorized in my head. Once they began, I found myself curiously paying attention to each step and mentally visualizing what part of the process they were performing. After stressing about it for the entire morning in the waiting rooms, I somehow managed to flip a switch in my head. My scientific curiosity completely overrode whatever anxiety was still lingering.

The staff also made sure to tell me what I was about to see or not see. At one point they warned me that things in my right eye would go dark or fuzzy for a few moments. They then covered the eye with some kind of device. Soon afterwards, the device was removed and I could see again, although everything was considerably blurrier. I could also make out what looked like a piece of something sitting on my eye.

From everything I’d learned, I knew what this was. They had made the incision and lifted the famous LASIK flap. Holy… crap. I had a piece of my eye… on my eye. My mind was blown. This was insane. In a cool way. I didn’t feel a thing, by the way.

Also, the “blade” they used apparently wasn’t really a knife-like object as I’d imagined. It was more like a tiny sliding potato peeler. Which, when you think about it, makes sense. Eyes are kind of potato-shaped… Next came the laser. I could hear the machine priming itself before producing the familiar rapid-fire ta-ta-ta-ta-ta sound.

I was already quite familiar with laser ablation from my own research work, although I’d used it on minerals rather than human eyeballs. Then came the smell. It was faint, but unmistakable. The same smell as when we caught insects in the electric bug zapper during my work rotations. Ho…ly… crap. I was smelling my eyes burning. WIIIILD.

I’m telling you, I was in full mad-scientist mode, even though I was the subject being operated on. And somehow, this made the whole thing absolutely fascinating rather than scary.

And Then It Was Over

They repeated the procedure on the other eye and then covered both eyes, letting them rest for about a minute. Afterwards, they examined both eyes with their observation equipment and quickly gave me the green light to go home, along with instructions for medication and rest over the following days.

The entire procedure had taken less than ten minutes. I never felt any actual pain throughout it. There was some mild discomfort once or twice, but really, nothing worth writing home about.

Afterwards, my eyes felt strange. I was given a pair of black plastic protective glasses, but even with them on, once I stepped outside I could somehow feel the wind blowing into my eyes. Like… inside them. That was weird. And not particularly pleasant.

I’d asked the person at reception to call me a taxi, so I didn’t have to wait long before getting into one. I could see, but the combination of the discomfort and the knowledge of what my poor eyes had just been subjected to made me keep them closed as much as possible, only opening them slightly when I needed to see where I was going.

Once home, I lay down on the couch and called my mom to update her. We talked for about an hour while I rested my eyes before I eventually ventured out to buy the necessary eye drops at the pharmacy.

I was still wary of opening my eyes too much. But I vividly remember the first moment I looked into the distance while walking down the street. The sharpness of my vision was incredible. I could make out an old lady’s face from across the street. And this was barely a couple of hours after surgery.

My friends were right. This really was life-changing

Laser Eyes

Any lingering discomfort and strange sensations were gone by the second day. I took care to drastically limit my screen time and simply rest and medicate my eyes as instructed.

The following morning, I returned to the clinic for my first follow-up appointment. It was a Saturday, and the otherwise busy downtown building was eerily quiet. The only people wandering through the elegant marble-clad corridors seemed to be other post-op patients like myself, silently making their way to and from the clinic. All of us wearing the exact same black shades. We were agents of the Matrix. The follow-up went well. My eyes seemed to be healing fine. Just some lingering inflammation that could last for a while. The eye drops would help with that.

I got upgraded

Over the following weeks, I kept testing my vision while walking around the city. I’d often find myself wondering whether I was still seeing as well as before, or perhaps better, or maybe somehow worse.

The mind has a funny way of adapting to new visual settings very quickly, so after a while it became surprisingly difficult to judge whether anything had actually changed without a professional test. As I read, second-guessing yourself after the procedure was apparently quite common and could persist for a long time.

Hell, even today, years later, I still occasionally catch myself wondering: Do I still see that well? Has anything changed? The best way to know, of course, is to get a proper checkup. So far, so good.

The Comfort of Independence

My LASIK experience had been overwhelmingly positive. But another thing worth noting in retrospect was the fact that I had gone through the entire process alone.

I mean, I obviously had supportive and encouraging words from my family, but physically, I was alone. I never asked anyone for help. Not even something as simple as a car ride home after the procedure, which I’m sure any of my colleagues would have gladly offered.

No. I chose to do this alone, just as I had chosen to do many things alone over the previous years. I don’t know if that was a good or a bad thing. Maybe neither. I’m not even trying to make some grand statement about it. I’m simply observing that somewhere along my journey, I had become extremely independent.

Another one of Montreal’s fantastic murals

Part of it was probably my undying pride, still clinging to the idea that I could and would do anything and everything on my own. Not to prove a point to anyone. Not even to myself anymore. Just because.

I guess it had become my comfort zone. I had learned to trust myself more than anyone else. Perhaps to the detriment of my relationships with other people.

By that point, the thought had begun floating around in my head that perhaps I had developed some serious trust issues over the past years. But who cares, I’d say. People come and go anyway. I’d always have myself to keep me company.

The Last Rotation

I was back up at Mirage for my final rotation of the year. The weather had turned grey and grim, with plenty of rain and fog. The last of the helicopters were now struggling to take off in these conditions, making field operations more difficult this late in the season. We were slowly closing up the final drill holes and finishing our work in the core shack. The hectic, high-energy environment of the summer had gradually dialed down into a much more mellow pace.

Our resident fox was back roaming around the camp

Among our team, we were discussing plans for the rest of the year. I definitely had some big ideas for late October: a well-deserved week of sun and fun somewhere far to the south, close to the ocean. We also discussed our futures with the company, since many of us were still working on temporary contracts that would be ending soon. Our field lead assured me and the others that we would be back the following year.

That was very comforting to hear. I had thoroughly enjoyed my professional journey with them so far and was very keen on staying.

Flying back to Montreal after the last rotation

Thus, my field adventures in 2022 were coming to a close on a very hopeful note. On top of that, I now had my newfound sharp eyesight. Not 100% exactly, but something like 85%, according to the last checkup. It was a good number. More importantly, I didn’t need glasses anymore. Not for driving. Not for anything. I was happy with it.

I had also experienced one of the greatest live shows on Earth during the summer.

And to think that earlier the same year I was still in frozen Chicoutimi, recovering mentally from the nuclear year that was 2021 and dealing with my best friend moving back to Europe. By this point, I had experienced so much already. 2022 truly felt like the antithesis of 2021. But it wasn’t over just yet.

Mr. squirrel had big plans

The sunny shores of South Beach, Miami, were waiting for me. There was just one small complication.

Before I could get there, I had to deal with the rather complicated matter of getting into the United States. And that meant taking a little detour back to August, when I found myself travelling to Ottawa on a rather unusual mission: obtaining a US visa.

That adventure deserves its own story.

New Home, New Adventures: Montreal and Beyond

New Home, New Adventures: Montreal and Beyond

Every move comes with a honeymoon period. The boxes are still unpacked, the neighborhood is unfamiliar, and every street corner carries the promise of discovering something new. After years of moving from place to place, I had learned to cherish those first few weeks more than anything else.

Moving to Montreal was no exception.

Barely settled into my new apartment, I wasted no time hitting the sunny late-spring streets to discover my surroundings. Some outings were out of necessity, like figuring out the best supermarkets and shopping centres nearby. Others were driven purely by curiosity. During that first week, I would simply pick a direction each morning and spend the next few hours wandering wherever the streets happened to take me.

Discovering Montreal

My first walking spree took me to the top of Mount Royal. I wanted to get a panoramic view of my new home, and Mount Royal Park was the perfect place to find it.

The Mount Royal Cross

Spanning nearly 2 square kilometers of forested hillsides, the park offered a spider web of trails and roads weaving their way across the mountain. From the grand staircase in the east to the Mount Royal Cross in the north and Beaver Lake in the southwest, there was plenty of ground to cover. Walkers, runners and cyclists shared the park with squirrels, raccoons and countless birds, making the mountain feel alive despite sitting in the middle of one of Canada’s largest cities.

The stairway up to Kondiaronk Belvedere

Several lookout points provided sweeping views of the vast urban landscape surrounding the park. However, the best spot of all was the Kondiaronk Belvedere. This was the premier scenic viewpoint for the Montreal skyline, brimming with tourists every summer, all clamoring for the perfect photo.

As was I. The difference was that I wasn’t a tourist. Not this time. I was a resident, and I had just found my happy place.

My first time seeing the city from Kondiaronk Belvedere

Over the following years, whenever I needed to walk off troubling thoughts or simply wanted a place to unwind, I would always return to Mount Royal and the Kondiaronk Belvedere. Spring, summer, autumn or winter, rain or shine, the breathtaking view of Montreal from this spot never failed to put a smile on my face and remind me of just how far I had come. I had found my new sanctuary.

Downtown Montreal

The following days, I continued exploring the city towards downtown and the St. Lawrence River.

I was fortunate enough to live not only a ten-minute walk from Mount Royal Park, but also just steps away from Sainte-Catherine Street, Montreal’s primary commercial artery.

Following the street eastwards for about ten minutes would bring me to one of the city’s most iconic landmarks, the Eaton Centre. This time, however, I found myself drawn towards a small park in the heart of downtown called Dorchester Square. It was a relatively small and quaint green space, teeming with squirrels and surrounded by soaring glass towers alongside elegant neo-classical buildings. In many ways, it reminded me of Madison Square Park in Manhattan.

The Eaton Centre with its iconic pyramid shaped top. View from Dorchester Square

I found myself comparing Montreal with New York surprisingly often. New York had long been my dream North American city, and as I explored Montreal, I began to understand why the two felt so familiar.

Both cities rose to prominence during the nineteenth century as major Atlantic ports connecting North America with Europe. They expanded outward from their historic waterfronts into sprawling metropolises, creating a rich architectural tapestry rarely found in younger inland cities. They were both home to remarkably diverse populations from every corner of the globe, and each was built around an impressive urban oasis that offered a welcome escape from the surrounding skyline.

The Sun Life Building in Dorchester Square

The difference was that New York ultimately won the race for commerce, growing into a city roughly three times the size of Montreal.

Lachine Canal

Taking a slight detour south, I eventually found myself on the shores of the Lachine Canal.

Today, the canal is a peaceful recreational area lined with walking and cycling paths, but nearly two centuries ago it was one of the most important pieces of infrastructure in Canada. Opened in 1825 to bypass the dangerous Lachine Rapids on the St. Lawrence River, it became the gateway to an inland canal network stretching deep into the North American continent. Together with the nearby Port of Montreal, it transformed the city into one of Canada’s foremost industrial and commercial centres, attracting factories, warehouses and thousands of workers to its banks.

The Lachine Canal

Walking alongside the canal, it wasn’t difficult to imagine that industrious past. Scattered along the waterfront were relics of Montreal’s industrial heyday, each accompanied by information panels telling the stories behind them. On my way towards the Old Port, I passed several historic lock systems before reaching the old CNR Wellington Swing Bridge. Permanently left in its open position, the bridge now stands as a monument to a bygone era when ships and freight traffic dominated these waterways.

One of the old lock system on the Lachine Canal

Leaving the canal behind, I turned back towards the city through a neighborhood that immediately caught my attention. Griffintown, once a bustling industrial district serving the nearby port, had been transformed into one of Montreal’s most fashionable neighborhoods.

Sleek condominium buildings stood beside trendy cafés, inviting green spaces and lively terraces, giving the area a distinctly modern feel. Strangely enough, it reminded me of the newer waterfront districts of Copenhagen. It was exactly the kind of neighborhood I could picture myself living in… if not for the equally modern property prices.

Old Montreal

Not far from the Old Port stood another of Montreal’s iconic landmarks: the Notre-Dame Basilica.

Completed during the nineteenth century in the Gothic Revival style, the basilica quickly became one of the city’s defining landmarks and remains one of the most visited churches in North America. Its twin towers rise prominently above Old Montreal. Unfortunately, one of the towers was undergoing a multi-year renovation, so I never got to see the church without scaffoldings and protective webbing.

The Notre-Dame Basilica in Old Town, Montreal

The basilica was only one highlight among many. Old Montreal itself felt like stepping into another era. Elegant neoclassical buildings lined the streets alongside beautifully restored red-brick warehouses that had once served the bustling port. Many had found new life as boutique hotels, offices, restaurants and luxurious apartments, preserving the character of the city’s earliest days while embracing the modern world.

For the time being, however, I resisted the temptation to explore every corner of the district. There would be plenty of opportunities to return. I headed back to my little corner of the city, content knowing there was still so much left to discover.

Saint Joseph’s Oratory

The following day, my walk took me west.

After passing through the charming anglophone neighborhood of Westmount, another landmark on Google Maps caught my attention. As I would soon discover, the Notre-Dame Basilica wasn’t the only monumental church Montreal had to offer. Perched high on the slopes of Mount Royal stood Saint Joseph’s Oratory.

Completely different in architectural style from Notre-Dame Basilica, yet equally impressive in its own way, the massive Renaissance Revival church dominates the western side of the mountain with its enormous copper dome. Founded in 1904 by Saint Brother André Bessette, whose reputation for compassion and reported miraculous healings drew pilgrims from across the country, the oratory has since become Canada’s largest church and one of the world’s most important pilgrimage sites.

Saint Joseph’s Oratory of Mount Royal on the west side of Montreal

Unfortunately, I never actually made it to the oratory that day. From where I stood, the entire area in front of it appeared to be one enormous construction site, and I simply assumed the church was closed to visitors. It wasn’t until several months later, when I returned to the neighborhood, that I discovered I could have approached it from another direction all along. The construction work had only affected the large forecourt, while the oratory itself had remained open the entire time.

A Friendly Reunion

Barely a week after settling into my new apartment, I welcomed my first guest from across the Atlantic: Moritz, from Germany.

Moritz and I had first met back in 2018 during EUGEN Austria, and we had stayed in touch on and off over the years. Like me, he loved travelling, and a few months earlier he had mentioned how much he wanted to visit Canada. When I told him I would soon be moving to Montreal, I offered him a place to stay if he ever made the trip.

Fast forward a few months, and here we were, meeting again after three years. It was great to see a familiar face so far from home.

Unfortunately for Moritz, there was one small problem. Some of the furniture I had ordered for the apartment still hadn’t arrived. Most notably… the couch. The very couch he was supposed to sleep on.

Well… it was time to roll out the foam mattress and sleeping bag, claim a spot in the middle of the living room, and make the best of it.

A Triumphant Return to Normalcy

My move to Montreal also happened to coincide with another long-awaited milestone: the world was finally beginning to return to normal. COVID restrictions were gradually disappearing, concerts and festivals were back on the calendar, and for the first time in years, large gatherings no longer felt like a distant memory.

Around the time Moritz arrived, I already had tickets for what would become my first concert in three years. My first concert since leaving Europe. My first since the long years of lockdowns, cancelled events and isolation. To make it even better, the headliner was Symphony X—my favorite band.

Scheduled to play in the Corona Theater… Talk about irony and foreshadowing

The timing almost felt unreal. I had first seen them live a few months after moving to Copenhagen years earlier, and now, barely a week after settling in Montreal, they were once again playing in the very city I had just begun calling home. It almost felt as though they were welcoming me into yet another new chapter of my life.

As if that weren’t enough, one of the opening bands was Haken, another group that had rapidly climbed into my list of all-time favourites over the previous couple of years. The more I listened to them, the more I was captivated by their unique blend of progressive metal, technical brilliance and memorable songwriting. By the time this concert came around, they had comfortably earned a place among my five favourite bands.

Needless to say, missing this concert was never an option.

Me and Mo at the show

Although Moritz wasn’t particularly familiar with either band, he was a fellow metal fan and happily joined me for the evening. Naturally, I squeezed my way as close to the stage as I could to fully embrace my inner fanboy, while he wisely opted for a more relaxed spot near the back.

Legends on stage receiving an ovation from the crowd

The performances were every bit as incredible as I had hoped. Yet beyond the music itself, what struck me most was the atmosphere. Thousands of passionate fans, singing every lyric, cheering between songs and simply enjoying the chance to gather again after years of restrictions. It wasn’t just a concert. It felt like a celebration that life had finally returned to normal.

Playing Tour Guide

The following day we set out to explore more of Montreal.

I had still barely scratched the surface of what the city had to offer, so apart from Mount Royal and Old Montreal, I wasn’t entirely sure where to take my guest. Fortunately, Moritz had arrived with a surprisingly well-prepared bucket list, so for the day I happily became his tour guide.

The Jacques Cartier Bridge over the Saint Laurent River

Our first stop was Saint Helen’s Island.

Together with its sister island, Île Notre-Dame, it forms the heart of Parc Jean-Drapeau, one of Montreal’s largest recreational areas. Originally expanded for Expo 67, the islands have since become one of the city’s premier entertainment destinations.

Walking and cycling trails weave through parks, lakes and gardens, while open-air gyms, beaches and swimming facilities offer plenty of opportunities to enjoy the warmer months. The area is also home to La Ronde, Montreal’s largest amusement park, the Biosphere environmental museum, and several venues that host major festivals and concerts throughout the summer.

The Biosphere environmental museum on Saint Helen’s Island

Whether arriving by metro, bicycle or car, it is the kind of place where spending an entire day is effortless. We wandered around for well over an hour and still felt as though we had barely begun exploring everything the islands had to offer.

Eventually we returned to the Island of Montreal, emerging from Berri-UQAM station before making our way towards the Old Port.

The Old Port

One landmark that had caught my attention from Saint Helen’s Island was the Old Port Clock Tower.

The Old Port marina and Clock Tower

Standing proudly at the entrance to the harbor since the early 1920s, the tower was built as a memorial to Canadian sailors lost during the First World War. Nearby, a pair of historic cannons stood watch over the waterfront, quietly recalling Montreal’s long maritime history.

Mounting canons near the Clock Tower

The rest of the Old Port, however, was anything but quiet.

The waterfront buzzed with activity. Pleasure boats drifted in and out of the marina, families wandered between attractions, and tourists filled the boardwalk. The Montreal Science Centre, the towering Ferris wheel, Cirque du Soleil’s Grand Chapiteau, a pirate-themed amusement area and even a zip line stretching across the harbor ensured there was something for visitors of every age.

La Grande Roue de Montréal

Once again, I found myself amazed by just how much Montreal had to offer. The contrast with Chicoutimi couldn’t have been greater. Oddly enough, I didn’t need to experience every attraction to appreciate living there. Simply knowing they were all within easy reach gave the city an energy that I had sorely missed. Montreal felt alive.

Afternoon

Before heading back towards downtown, we stopped at a small jazz bar tucked away on one of the cobbled streets near Notre-Dame Basilica. I ordered what was probably the fanciest poutine I’d had up to that point, accompanied by a well-earned beer while a live jazz trio played in the background.

The mysterious bar somewhere in the Old Town

To this day, I have no idea what the place was called.

I’ve tried finding it again more than once, but without success.

Spinning around Downtown Montreal

After a short break back at my apartment, we made one final climb up Mount Royal to enjoy the panoramic view before sunset. Along the way, I became more familiar with Sherbrooke Street, passing landmarks such as the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, the elegant Ritz-Carlton and many other beautiful buildings that I would come to know well over the following years.

The Eye by David Altmejd, outside the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts on Sherbrooke Street

The next adventure, however, would take us well beyond the city limits.

Pedro was driving down from Chicoutimi with a friend to pick us up, and together we were about to set off on a three-day road trip to one of Canada’s most iconic destinations: Niagara Falls.

A Reunion on the Road

Just before our journey began, Moritz discovered that another one of our EUGEN friends from Austria, Sophie, was also in Canada at the time, taking part in a research program in Ottawa. One thing quickly led to another, and before we knew it, we had a fifth member joining the trip. We just had to make a small detour through Cornwall to pick her up on the way to Niagara.

What had started as a little road trip between friends was turning into quite the reunion.

Ornate 19th-century architecture in Old Town, Montreal

It had only been about half a year since I had briefly visited Niagara Falls on the return journey from a conference in London. That visit, however, had been little more than a quick stop. We were pressed for time because of the long drive back to Montreal, and the limited parking around the falls was both scarce and expensive. There was barely enough time to take in the view before getting back on the road.

This time was different. We were actually going to stay.

We had booked two nights in Niagara, giving Pedro, who would be doing all the driving, at least one full day to relax between the long journeys. It also meant we could finally take our time and explore the area properly rather than treating the falls as a glorified roadside stop.

Montreal’s rubber-tired Metro trains and the curious peanut-butter scent of their brakes — a transit story all their own

There was, however, one small logistical problem I had to deal with before we left.

I was expecting a pair of Fjällräven pants I had ordered for work. At some point before the road trip, I received a notification that the package had been delivered and left in the lobby downstairs. Except when I got home, there was no package. I searched around the lobby, checked the usual places and, if I remember correctly, even asked the building management whether they had seen anything. Nothing.

It seemed my brand-new work pants had simply been yoinked.

With the Niagara trip approaching, there wasn’t much I could do about it. So, somewhere along the road to Cornwall, while Pedro was driving us towards Niagara, I found myself on the phone with Fjällräven explaining that my pants had apparently vanished into thin air.

They checked with the delivery company, which confirmed that the package had indeed been delivered to the correct address. Great… Except I still didn’t have my pants.

Why are you eating upside down, squirrel? You’re not in Australia…

Fortunately, Fjällräven were remarkably helpful. Since the delivery company considered the package delivered but I clearly hadn’t received it, they agreed to send me another pair.

And so, somewhere on the road to Niagara Falls, while a spontaneous road trip was unfolding around me and we were about to pick up Sophie, I was simultaneously trying to solve the mystery of my missing trousers.

It was becoming that kind of month.

Off to Niagara

The weather was looking rather miserable when we set off. The sky remained overcast for most of the drive, and I think we even caught some rain when we stopped in Cornwall to pick up Sophie. But as we continued west along Lake Ontario, the clouds gradually began to break apart. By the time we reached Niagara in the late afternoon, the skies had cleared and we were greeted by beautiful sunshine. It was a little windy, but after the dreary start to the journey, I wasn’t about to complain.

Dramatic clouds giving way to a blue sky above Lake Ontario

I was genuinely happy with how this rather spontaneous trip was coming together.

I was particularly grateful that Pedro had agreed to make the drive. Without a car, there wasn’t really an easy way for Moritz to get from Montreal to Niagara and back, and otherwise he would have travelled all the way across the Atlantic only to see Montreal. Renting a car was certainly an option, but it would have added considerably to the cost, and I had never been particularly enthusiastic about driving myself around unfamiliar roads when there were alternatives.

So having Pedro behind the wheel was a bit of a lifesaver, even if his theatrical Rio-driving style occasionally had our more Germanic passengers gripping their seats and sweating a little.

After settling into our rooms at the Days Inn, we started looking for somewhere to grab some food and drinks. It didn’t take long before one particularly famous establishment caught our attention.

The over-the-top side of Niagara Falls: giant ducks, cars stuck in walls, and enough neon kitsch to rival Vegas

Right across from our hotel was a Hooters. Some of us responded with the appropriate amount of facepalming at the suggestion. Moritz, however, couldn’t resist the opportunity to have a drink in one of America’s most famous, or infamous, bar chains.

Having satisfied that particular curiosity, we eventually headed back out for a stroll around Niagara in the evening before returning to the hotel.

Niagara Falls in Full Force

The following morning we were all fresh and full of energy. We had several activities in mind, so we started with a morning walk around the falls.

Spring at Niagara

The parks and walkways surrounding the falls were vibrant green, with colorful flowers blooming everywhere. Canada geese honked and grazed around the lawns while the sky remained beautifully clear. After the dreary start to our journey the previous day, we couldn’t have asked for better weather.

We continued with a walking tour down into the gorge, where we were each handed a thin yellow rain poncho. They made us all look like we had been wrapped in recycled garbage bags, and initially we weren’t entirely convinced they were necessary. Turns out… they were.

An epic view of Niagara from near the grand waterfall

The trail brought us remarkably close to the side of the waterfall, where a constant spray of water filled the air. By the time we reached the closest viewpoints, the ponchos were doing their job.

With my yellow trash bag, shorts, cheap flip-flops and a pair of ridiculous round sunglasses I had just bought, I felt like I was attempting to make some sort of fashion statement.

Some people simply aren’t ready for this level of style

After touring the falls, we jumped back into the car and drove down to Niagara-on-the-Lake, a small historic town near the mouth of the Niagara River. My mother had suggested that we visit it, having once visited a friend who lived there many years earlier and remembering the place fondly. It was easy to see why.

Niagara-on-the-Lake

Niagara-on-the-Lake had a completely different atmosphere from the frenetic tourist center around the falls. Its neatly maintained streets were lined with colorful flowerbeds, historic buildings, small shops, restaurants and charming pubs, giving the town an almost idyllic, old-fashioned character. Everything looked remarkably polished and prosperous, yet the pace was relaxed and unhurried.

Clock Tower in the heart of Niagara-on-the-Lake

The town also gave us a chance to appreciate just how strategically positioned this corner of Ontario was. From the shores of Lake Ontario, we could see cargo ships moving across the water, while the distant Toronto skyline was visible on the horizon. With my camera’s zoom, I could make out the CN tower and some of the city’s skyscrapers from afar.

At the mouth of the Niagara River, the United States suddenly seemed incredibly close. The river itself formed the border, with American territory lying only a short distance away across the water. Two historic forts stood on opposite sides as reminders of how strategically important the region had once been: Fort George on the Canadian side and the considerably more imposing-looking Old Fort Niagara across the river in New York.

Old Fort Niagara on the US side of the Niagara River

Naturally, this gave Pedro and me an opportunity to start making jokes about how everything on the American side somehow looked better.

We were foreigners who had already spent several years living in Canada, after all. We knew enough about the Canadian system to complain about it, while knowing little to nothing about the American one. Obviously, the only reasonable conclusion was that things must be better over there. The grass is always greener on the other side. There were even a few jokes about being able to “smell freedom” from the American side of the river while we remained trapped in socialist Canada. Mostly jokes, of course.

Zoom in on the Toronto skyline across Lake Ontario

After the experience of the pandemic years, Pedro and I had developed a deep distaste for the increasingly restrictive measures imposed by Canadian governments in the name of protecting the public. The severity of some of the lockdowns, the pressure surrounding vaccination, and the heavy-handed response to the Freedom Convoy had left me with a lingering feeling that personal liberty had too often been treated as something that could simply be suspended whenever governments deemed it necessary.

So perhaps our jokes about the greener grass on the other side of the river weren’t entirely without substance.

Heights and Lights

Later that afternoon we returned to Niagara Falls and headed up the Skylon Tower. At just over 150 meters tall, it was nowhere near the height of Toronto’s CN Tower, but it still offered an impressive panorama over the falls, the Niagara River and the surrounding landscape. On a clear day, the view stretches far across Lake Ontario, and the observation deck gave us an excellent perspective of just how enormous the falls and the surrounding tourist district really were.

Niagara Falls from the Skylon Tower observation deck

It also came at a considerably more reasonable price than the CN Tower, which was particularly important given how quickly our collection of parking and tourist expenses was growing.

Afterwards we presumably went somewhere for dinner, although I honestly can’t remember much about that part of the evening. What I do remember was returning to the falls after nightfall.

Group photo from the Skylon Tower

The character of Niagara had completely changed. The crowds had thinned, the surrounding buildings glowed against the darkness, and the waterfalls themselves were illuminated in constantly changing colours. The rushing water became an enormous moving canvas of red, blue, green and purple.

A spectacular nightly color show at Niagara Falls

Once again, Pedro and I couldn’t resist comparing the Canadian and American sides. Naturally, the American lights were better. At least according to us. It became an ongoing joke throughout the evening that apparently everything across the border was superior, including the illumination of a waterfall that very much belonged to both countries.

You Have a Parking Problem

The spectacle certainly fit the character of Niagara Falls itself. The town was, after all, something resembling a Canadian mini-Las Vegas, with casinos, hotels, restaurants, entertainment venues and attractions packed around one of the world’s great natural wonders. The waterfalls provided the natural spectacle; everything around them seemed designed to make sure visitors had plenty of ways to spend money once they were done looking at it.

A dinosaur theme park? Why not?

Speaking of casinos, we had one final activity in mind for the evening. None of us had any serious intention of losing money. We simply wanted to experience one of the casinos for an hour or so, perhaps throw a few dollars into a machine and have a look around.

There was just one problem… Parking.

By this point, we had become increasingly annoyed by how expensive and ubiquitous paid parking seemed to be. Every time we wanted to stop somewhere, another parking fee seemed to be waiting for us. So Pedro took it upon himself to find a free spot somewhere within reasonable walking distance of the casinos.

Too cool for school

This proved to be considerably more difficult than expected. What followed was roughly half an hour of driving around in circles, searching increasingly desperate side streets and finding very little that didn’t come with another hefty fee attached. Eventually, it got late enough that we simply gave up. The casino would have to wait.

We headed back to the hotel instead. We still had a long drive ahead of us the following day, and Pedro in particular needed a good night’s sleep after already having driven us all the way from Chicoutimi the previous day. And with that, our short excursion to Niagara Falls came to an end.

Dinner time somewhere in Niagara Falls

Despite the rushed schedule, the long drives, the endless parking fees and our failed attempt at visiting a casino, I think we had made the most of our day and a half. We had explored the falls from almost every angle, wandered through Niagara-on-the-Lake, admired the views from above and seen the waterfalls transformed by the colorful lights after dark.

But there was still one major stop left on our journey back to Montreal. Toronto.

A Few Hours in Toronto

We had planned to make a stop in Toronto on our way back. None of us had really seen Canada’s biggest city, so we figured we might as well take the opportunity to spend a few hours sightseeing before continuing towards Montreal. Toronto was also a convenient place for Sophie to catch a train back to Ottawa. But first, we all had to see the big ol’ tower. The CN Tower.

Even before reaching Toronto, it was impossible to miss. Rising 553 meters above the city, the tower was for decades the world’s tallest freestanding structure and remains one of the most recognizable landmarks in Canada. Its enormous concrete shaft, topped by a bulbous observation pod and a long antenna mast, sticks out of the Toronto skyline like a needle piercing the sky.

Standing directly beneath it and looking up was almost dizzying.

Daddy long legs and the CN Tower

I wasn’t even sure there was a “correct” distance from which to appreciate something this tall. From right beside it, the tower looked absolutely massive, but the perspective became increasingly difficult to comprehend. Move farther away and it completely dwarfed the surrounding buildings. Further still, from somewhere deeper in the city, it transformed into a giant beacon on the horizon, appearing between buildings and seemingly following you wherever you went.

Theatrical bronze sculptures emerging from the concrete in Toronto

Eventually, it was time to get the inside perspective. But first… Holy crap. C$40 per person!? Okay, perhaps that doesn’t sound quite as outrageous now as it did in my memory. At the time, general admission was C$40 before tax, or about C$45 with HST. I apparently remembered the more expensive SkyPod option, which pushed the price well above C$60 after tax.

Still, that was a lot of money for an elevator ride. Alas, there was only one CN Tower, and we were already there. Up we went.

The CN Tower

A speedy and rather dramatic elevator ride later, we were standing on the Main Observation Level, roughly 346 meters above the ground.

The CN Tower had been completed in 1976 as a massive communications and broadcasting project, at a time when Toronto’s rapidly growing skyline was already creating problems for radio and television signals. It soon became much more than a piece of infrastructure, however. The tower became an icon of Toronto and one of the defining symbols of modern Canada.

Inside the observation level were several sections of glass floor, each providing an opportunity for visitors to test their courage by looking straight down. For me, however, the moment when my balls took their own elevator up to my stomach came much earlier.

The not so dramatic glass floor section

Right after stepping out of the elevator, there was a small gap between the elevator floor and the surrounding platform. Through that crack I could catch a glimpse of the seemingly endless vertical shaft disappearing hundreds of meters below. I could almost imagine my eyes cartoonishly bulging out of their sockets, desperately trying to adjust to the ridiculous depth I was suddenly looking into directly beneath my feet.

That did it.

Fortunately, once I was inside the enclosed observation deck, I felt perfectly fine. Give me a solid floor and a roof over my head and apparently I was comfortable enough to enjoy being almost half a kilometre above the city.

Views from Above

The sky was mostly overcast, but the clouds were high enough that they didn’t obstruct the view. The circular observation deck provided a sweeping panorama in every direction, and the Greater Toronto Area seemed to stretch endlessly into the distance. From this height, the city almost stopped looking like a city and started looking like a map.

A southern view from the CN Tower observation deck

Once we started looking more closely, all sorts of little details began revealing themselves. Just beyond the downtown core, we could see the small islands of Lake Ontario and the airport tucked away on one of them.

Much closer to the tower was the aquarium, its rooftop carrying a simple monochrome mural that looked almost abstract from above. Nearby, the broad, chunky structure of Union Station stood out among the surrounding buildings. The dense cluster of downtown high-rises revealed another amusing detail: swimming pools and what looked like tiny sports courts or even putting greens perched on the rooftops of some of the more luxurious residential towers..

Mandatory group photo from high above the city

From ground level, most of these things were either invisible or completely lost among the surrounding buildings. From up here, the city became a giant three-dimensional puzzle, and we could spend several minutes picking out individual landmarks and trying to work out exactly what we were looking at.

Then Pedro spotted something that made even the tower itself seem slightly less insane.

Just below us, several completely deranged-looking people in bright red jumpsuits were walking along the outside of the tower, attached to a yellow safety line.

Edge Walkers dangling by a thread

They were doing EdgeWalk. At 356 metres above the ground, EdgeWalk is the world’s highest external walk on a building. Participants are harnessed to an overhead safety system and literally walk along the narrow ledge outside the main pod.

Adrenaline junkies. What else could I say?

Definitely not my cup of tea.

A Walk Through Downtown

After descending from the tower, we set off on a leisurely walk through downtown. I don’t remember us having a particularly well-defined route. We mostly wandered around, checking Google Maps for interesting landmarks and deciding where to go next.

Old locomotives and industrial silos at Toronto’s Roundhouse Park

Eventually we reached Nathan Phillips Square, Toronto’s main civic gathering place.

Standing at one end of the square was Old City Hall, an imposing Romanesque Revival building completed in 1899. With its enormous clock tower, stone façade and turrets, it looked almost like a little English castle that had somehow found itself surrounded by the skyscrapers of modern Toronto. It was a neat contrast.

Old City Hall clock tower framed by modern skyscrapers in downtown Toronto

Only a short distance away stood the much newer Toronto City Hall. Designed by Finnish architect Viljo Revell and opened in 1965, the building couldn’t have been more different from its nineteenth-century predecessor. Two enormous curved concrete towers rise around a circular council chamber, creating the somber modern appearance that really stood out from afar.

The contrast between the two city halls was a perfect little snapshot of Toronto itself: nineteenth-century stone architecture standing alongside bold modernist structures, with glass skyscrapers filling in the gaps between them.

The Canada Life Building near Nathan Phillips Square

Nearby stood the Canada Life Building, another imposing landmark of the downtown core.

OTNOROT

Eventually, we unknowingly stumbled upon the famous Toronto sign.

But from the back… OTNOROT.

Welcome to OTNOROT

Just the way we caught it in the photo. And so, for the remainder of the trip, Toronto was officially renamed.

It sounded less like Canada’s largest city and more like the fortified gathering place of some particularly aggressive orc tribe. By then, however, our little Toronto excursion had come to an end.

One more group photo before we hit the road

We still had to get out of the city. And that turned out to be an adventure of its own.

Toronto’s traffic was an absolute head-spinning maze of cars, concrete, ramps and seemingly endless lanes going in every conceivable direction. Pedro, once again, demonstrated his particular brand of driving wizardry as he forced his way through the urban labyrinth and found gaps where I wasn’t entirely convinced gaps actually existed.

Moritz sat silently in the back with what I can only describe as a forced smile… Probably still processing Pedro’s theatrical Rio-driving style.

Sleepy time during the drive back

But once again, a huge shout-out to Pedro. He had already driven us all the way from Chicoutimi to Montreal, then down to Niagara Falls, around the region, into Toronto and now back towards Montreal. And after dropping us off in Montreal, despite my offer of a perfectly respectable patch of apartment floor for him and his friend to sleep on, he simply carried on.

He still had the long drive back to Chicoutimi ahead of him. Somehow, he soldiered on.

The Couch Arrives

The following day, Moritz was packing his belongings and getting ready to leave when I received a rather unexpected call from the delivery company.

My couch was arriving. The timing could not have been more hilarious.

After everything that had happened during his visit, Moritz had still never actually seen the couch he had originally been promised as a bed. Now, on the very day he was leaving, the damn thing had finally arrived.

After his arrival, he had already helped me put up my curtains. Now he was begrudgingly helping me carry in the couch. The couch he was supposed to sleep on. At least he finally got to see it. And, for a brief moment, he could lie down on it and imagine what his Montreal nights might have been like had the furniture delivery company possessed even a shred of decent timing.

Another iconic skyscraper in Montreal — 1000 De La Gauchetière

Not long afterwards, we finally said goodbye with a healthy hug and friendly slap on the back. It had been great having him over.

Our little Niagara adventure had left all of us with some excellent memories. But it had also left me with something else.

A Long Anticipated Showdown

On the drive back to Montreal, I had started developing a scratchy throat, and my voice was beginning to deteriorate. I wasn’t sure what I was coming down with. A cold? The flu?

Or perhaps the villainous coronavirus that had spent the previous two years terrorizing the planet.

I kept messaging the others, asking whether they were feeling alright or developing any symptoms. They were all fine. That made me suspect I had probably picked up whatever this was at the concert rather than during the road trip. The timing certainly made sense. I had been surrounded by thousands of people singing and shouting in an enclosed venue just a few days earlier.

COVID tests were being handed out freely at the time, so I got one and tested myself. The result was inconclusive. I waited another half day and tried again, this time paying considerably more attention to the instructions.

And… A resounding positive. Finally.

After two years of avoiding it, the goddamn boogeyman virus had finally made its way into my body. And, strangely enough, I was almost looking forward to seeing what it could do.

Call it morbid curiosity. Call it overconfidence in my immune system. Perhaps a little bit of both. After two years of hearing about this virus, experiencing the world reorganize itself around it and wondering what an infection would actually feel like, I was mentally prepared for battle.

That night, before going to sleep, I engaged in my own rather unconventional form of meditation. I imagined my body as a fortress that had just discovered an intruder. There was a boogeyman inside. I wanted my immune system to find it, hunt it down and absolutely annihilate it. No mercy. No prisoners.

A group of Chinook helicopters passing over Montreal on a cloudy day

I don’t know how much influence the mind can actually have over the body’s response to an infection, and I’m certainly not claiming that this meditation somehow cured me. Perhaps it was simply coincidence, or perhaps my immune system was already primed for the fight. Perhaps the vaccine I had received more than a year earlier played its part.

Or perhaps my ridiculous little mental pep talk did something after all. Whatever the explanation, the timing was certainly entertaining.

COVID-19 Gets KO’d

The following morning, the scratchiness in my throat was already subsiding, if not mostly gone. I had some mild muscle aches and felt somewhat fatigued, so I took it easy and spent the day relaxing on my brand-new couch, laptop in lap.

Good food. Plenty of water. An afternoon nap. That was about it.

By the following day, the muscle aches and fatigue were gone completely, replaced by increasingly intense nasal congestion.

From my decidedly non-expert understanding of viral infections, I interpreted this as my body now being fully engaged in the fight, dealing with the infection and clearing out the aftermath. I was essentially monitoring myself like a laboratory experiment, waiting to see what symptom would appear next.

Nothing did. The congestion, however, went absolutely berserk.

For more than a week I had to deal with an almost absurd amount of mucus, to the point where it became less frightening than simply incredibly annoying. And that was it.

My COVID infection had been dealt with. Harshly. And I was grinning from ear to ear.

There was something deeply satisfying about finally confronting the thing I had spent two years hearing about, worrying about and occasionally raging against, only to discover that, at least in my case, it was an anticlimactic opponent.

Whether I had a relatively mild strain, a strong immune response, some contribution from the vaccine from a year earlier, or simply a combination of all of the above, I can’t say. All I know is that my experience was surprisingly uneventful. In fact, the flu I caught during my first work rotation had felt considerably worse.

With the arrival of summer, Mount Royal Park turned into a lush green jungle

That was, of course, only my experience. COVID-19 caused serious illness and death for many people, and the fact that my own infection was mild says nothing about how it affected others. For me, however, the mighty boogeyman had finally shown up. And promptly got KO’d.

Summer Time

By the time May drew to a close, the apartment finally felt like home. I knew my way around the city, had already welcomed friends from Europe, explored more of Montreal than I ever expected during my first few weeks, and even managed to tick off my first bout of COVID. It had been an eventful start to my new chapter in Canada.

Now it was time to trade cafés, concerts and city streets for helicopters, blackflies and drill rigs.

Summer field season was about to begin.