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A Summer of Two Worlds

0 A Summer of Two Worlds

By the time May came to an end, Montreal was beginning to feel like home. I had explored my new surroundings, made some new connections, and already packed an absurd amount of adventure into my first month. But my new life had another side to it.

Every two weeks, I would leave the city behind and disappear into the wilderness of northern Quebec, trading cafés, concerts and city streets for drill rigs, helicopters, mosquitoes and twelve-hour shifts. Then, two weeks later, I’d return to Montreal and slip back into a completely different world. I hadn’t really appreciated it at first, but over the course of that summer I was beginning to build two lives simultaneously.

Summer in the North

Summer was the busiest time of year for us at work. It was essentially the only part of the year when extensive field work was possible, once the snow had finally disappeared and the landscape became accessible again. It was also the best season for drilling, so the entire exploration program ramped up: prospecting, geological mapping, sampling and drilling were all happening at once.

Northern Quebec. Land of lakes and trees

Our team grew considerably as well. A group of students joined us for summer internships, helping with field work, while several seasonal workers came aboard as additional technicians, geologists and support staff. As the exploration program ramped up, more and more helicopters began appearing around the camp.

We weren’t the only ones busy. Another company was also operating out of Mirage and exploring the surrounding area, bringing their own large crews and equipment. At the height of summer, there must have been six or seven helicopters flying around the area. It was crazy to watch.

Our growing fleet of helicopters

What had started as a relatively small operation had transformed into a miniature aerial traffic network in the middle of northern Quebec.

A Taste of Everything

My shifts mostly remained on the familiar two-weeks-on, two-weeks-off rotation, with one particularly memorable exception: a four-week stint that felt like an eternity by the time it was over.

Most of us were rotated between the core shack and field work, which I actually preferred. The constant change kept things fresh. There is only so long you can perform the same repetitive tasks inside a garage, twelve hours a day, before time itself seems to slow down and your mind begins to feel trapped in a depressive eternity of repetition.

Overcast days brought better temperatures, but more bugs

Field work was a very different beast. Every day brought something different, but it was also considerably more physically demanding. Long hikes through difficult terrain, coupled with weather that could swing from hot and humid to miserably wet, made even relatively simple tasks exhausting.

Then there was channel sampling.

The process began with digging trenches through the soil to expose the underlying bedrock. On a hot, sunny day, this was simply brutal manual labor, with sweat pouring down us as we hacked away at the ground. On an overcast and rainy day, it became a battle against mud and rapidly filling trenches.

Once the trench was prepared and the sampling boundaries marked, we reached what I considered the peak back-breaker of the operation. Holding a large rock saw, bent over an outcrop for hours at a time, we would cut channels through the exposed rock to obtain representative samples. We took turns, of course, but there was usually one more experienced or physically fit person who ended up doing most of the cutting, while the other person performed the considerably less glamorous task of continuously spraying water onto the blade.

Geared up and ready to fly out

And naturally, all of this happened while fully clothed and often wearing a bug net to protect ourselves from the millions upon millions of winged, blood-sucking insects that seemed to follow us around like a dark cloud of torment.

Work was hard. But it was never boring.

Beyond the Core Shack

Every now and then I also got to take on some of the more auxiliary outdoor tasks.

Some were directly related to drilling, such as scouting and spotting new drill holes or carrying out borehole deviation surveys once a hole had been completed. Others were less technical: long drives to exchange crews, or chauffeuring investors, clients and other visitors around the various sites.

Paying a visit to one of the drilling rigs

I really came to appreciate the sheer variety of the work. There was always something different to do, somewhere different to go, or something new to learn. Compared with the repetitive routine of some other jobs, the diversity of tasks was one of the things I enjoyed most about working for this company.

There was simply never a dull moment.

Off on another errand

Meanwhile, life inside the core shack continued to evolve as well. As we became more familiar with the workflow, we were constantly looking for little things we could improve. Sometimes that meant building an extra table or stand to make a particular task easier. Other times it was simply about making the workplace a little more comfortable.

It was beginning to feel less like a temporary workplace and more like something we were collectively building. And as our little work family grew closer, the post-work entertainment started evolving too.

Northern Quebec Cinema

One of the big hits in 2022 was movie night.

We had a projector sitting around that wasn’t being used, along with a massive garage door. Once we found a large white canvas to cover it, we had everything we needed for the ultimate northern Quebec cinema. It was… unconventional.

The canvas was thin enough that some of the thick tags and markings that had accumulated on the garage door over the years remained visible through it. Depending on the movie, these strange shadows and shapes could turn what was supposed to be a terrifying horror scene into an unintentionally hilarious comedy.

Then there were the sounds. The garage had a habit of producing its own soundtrack, with random machinery, water sprayers and other mysterious noises occasionally bubbling, rattling or squeaking in the middle of a movie.

It wasn’t exactly Hollywood. But those nights were a blast.

Two Lives

When I started this job, I hadn’t really intended to make friends.

That sounds harsher than I mean it. I obviously wanted to be friendly with my colleagues and get along with the people I worked with. But I deliberately wanted to keep my work friendships separate from my personal life. I didn’t want the same group of people I spent two weeks living and working alongside to also become my entire social circle back home.

Birdy nesting in the heli mechanic’s shack

Part of my reasoning was practical. In a work environment where people live together, work together and spend long stretches of time in close quarters, friendships can become an all-consuming social ecosystem. And while that can be great when everything is going well, I could also imagine how easily personal disagreements or drama could spill back into the workplace.

I wanted a boundary. Work was work. Home was home.

The irony, of course, was that I was beginning to develop a genuine social life in both worlds anyway.

The Transtaiga turnoff on the Bill Diamond Highway

There was a strange duality to my life during this period. At work, I was highly active and constantly engaged. I was surrounded by geology, field work, helicopters, drill rigs and people for twelve hours a day. There was always something happening, and I was generally in a very outgoing, energetic state.

Then I would return to Montreal and my other self would emerge.

At home, I naturally slipped back into my more introverted and sedentary mode. I enjoyed having my own space, spending quiet evenings by myself and generally doing very little when I wasn’t actively pursuing something. I wasn’t unhappy or antisocial; I simply needed considerably more motivation to turn an idea into an actual social outing.

Sunset view during one of my drives

The problem was that building a social life from scratch requires exactly that: getting off the couch and actually going somewhere. Fortunately, I had a plan.

Finding People in Montreal

Making new friends had generally come fairly easily to me, but bars and clubs had never been my thing. If I was going to meet people, I needed a different approach.

Enter the glorious Meetup app. I’d briefly used Meetup back in Denmark after a friend recommended it, so when I arrived in Montreal I decided to see what was available. Quite a lot, as it turned out.

Monument to Sir George-Étienne Cartier, northeast Mount Royal

Montreal had an active social scene built around all sorts of groups and activities. There were people organizing city walks, bowling nights, debates, bar meetups and countless other gatherings. It was practically a buffet of opportunities for someone trying to build a social life from scratch.

This was the way.

Over the following months, whenever I was in Montreal, I joined whatever outings caught my interest. I met quite a few people and made plenty of friendly acquaintances. But there was one persistent problem. My work schedule.

Eastern view of Montreal from Kondiaronk Belvedere

I’d go out, meet someone interesting, have a great conversation and perhaps suggest doing something again. Then I’d disappear back into northern Quebec for two weeks or more. By the time I returned, I would finally work up the energy to organize a spontaneous get-together, only to discover that they already had plans.

“How about next weekend?”

Sure. Except by next weekend, I would be back at work again.

Street Art is a big thing in Montreal, and the city has a lot of great hidden gems like this one

My two-weeks-on, two-weeks-off schedule simply didn’t fit neatly into the rhythm of normal Monday-to-Friday life. Other people could casually make plans for next Saturday. For me, next Saturday could mean being several hundred kilometres into the wilderness.

I was meeting people. I was making connections. But turning those connections into proper friendships was proving considerably more difficult.

Exploring Montreal Further

Of course, my inability to coordinate with other people didn’t mean I had nothing to do. My unusual schedule left me with entire stretches of weekdays free, and I quickly realized there was no reason to wait for the weekend to explore Montreal.

One of the places I finally returned to was Saint Joseph’s Oratory. I’d first spotted the enormous basilica during my early exploration of Montreal, but at the time the construction work in front of it had made the entrance seem inaccessible. This time I found another approach, following Chemin de la Côte-des-Neiges around Mount Royal before cutting through Summit Woods and approaching the Oratory from behind.

And suddenly, there it was. The great dome rose above the trees and residential houses. No construction site blocking the approach this time.

The massive dome of Saint Joseph’s Oratory

Behind the basilica I discovered something I hadn’t expected: a peaceful enclosed garden known as the Garden of the Way of the Cross. It was apparently designed as an outdoor setting for the traditional Stations of the Cross, with a winding path through the greenery accompanied by a series of large sculptures.

The sculptures were scattered among trees, shrubs and winding paths, giving the whole place an almost secluded atmosphere despite being surrounded by one of the busiest parts of Montreal. There were flowers and patches of carefully maintained greenery everywhere, but the scale of the sculptures made the garden feel more like an open-air gallery than a conventional park.

Sculptures in the Garden of the Way of the Cross

It was one of those unexpected little discoveries that made wandering around Montreal so rewarding. You could leave a busy street, disappear into a patch of greenery and suddenly find yourself somewhere that felt completely removed from the city.

A World of Gardens

Another day took me east toward Montreal’s Olympic Park and the Montreal Botanical Garden.

This was another one of those places where I quickly realized that I had underestimated just how much there was to see. The garden occupies roughly 75 hectares and contains around thirty thematic gardens, an arboretum and numerous exhibition greenhouses.

Deep red and lime-edged coleus at the Montreal Botanical Garden

Rather than feeling like one enormous conventional flower garden, it was more like a collection of different worlds stitched together into one sprawling landscape. Different sections had their own character, vegetation and design philosophy, so walking from one area to another could feel like stepping into an entirely different environment.

There were gardens dedicated to plants native to Quebec and North America, collections of medicinal plants, alpine plants, roses and other specialized flora. Elsewhere, the landscape became increasingly exotic. The Indigenous Peoples Garden explored the relationships between First Peoples and the plant world, while the Chinese Garden used traditional landscape principles, ponds, bridges and classical structures to create something that felt almost theatrical.

The Chinese Garden sections felt like stepping into another world

The Japanese Garden was more restrained. Its carefully arranged trees, shrubs, stones, streams and waterfalls created a much quieter and more meditative atmosphere. There was also a collection of bonsai and penjing that I found particularly interesting, with miniature trees painstakingly shaped to resemble their much larger counterparts.

And then there was simply the sheer amount of space. Paths wound through trees and flowerbeds in every direction, with benches and quiet corners scattered throughout. I could spend hours wandering without feeling as though I was retracing the same route.

Mini maple tree in the Japanese Garden section

The Botanical Garden also housed the Insectarium, as part of a much larger complex of attractions around the Olympic Park, including the Biodôme and Planetarium. I didn’t visit the Insectarium on this particular day, though I would eventually return to the area and give some of those other attractions the attention they deserved.

For now, I was perfectly happy just wandering through this enormous collection of plants and gardens. But while I was becoming increasingly comfortable exploring Montreal on my own, I was also slowly beginning to establish a few connections outside of work.

A Day on Île Notre-Dame

One of the people I met was Adam, a Canadian from out west who had recently moved to Montreal looking for a change of scenery. We had met at one of the Meetup social gatherings, and eventually arranged another outing together at Parc Jean-Drapeau.

This time I got to discover the second major island of Montreal’s downtown recreation complex: Île Notre-Dame. We had initially come simply to cool off on a warm summer afternoon at the island’s beach. But, as I was beginning to discover, Montreal had a habit of hiding considerably more interesting things behind seemingly ordinary places.

More cool street art from Montreal

Île Notre-Dame turned out to be a rather bizarre collection of attractions. There were the Olympic Basin, built for the 1976 Montreal Olympics and used for rowing and other aquatic sports; the Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve, the Formula 1 race track that winds around the island but spends much of the year open to cyclists, runners and pedestrians; and, somewhat incongruously, the Casino de Montréal.

After cooling off in the lake, Adam and I decided to investigate the casino. I’d never actually been inside one before, so I was curious to see what the place was like. The casino occupied the former French pavilion from Expo 67, a suitably futuristic-looking building that had been repurposed into Quebec’s first government-run casino in 1993. It had since expanded into the neighboring former Québec pavilion, creating a sprawling multi-level entertainment complex.

Inside, there were floors of flashing electronic games and slot machines, along with the more traditional tables. Blackjack and roulette seemed to be particularly popular, with crowds gathered around the tables and people watching every move.

I was mildly disappointed not to see any poker tables. Maybe there was a secluded poker room somewhere that I simply never found. Or perhaps I was just looking in the wrong place.

The Casino also had a bunch of these places to pose for photos, so we couldn’t resist

Either way, neither Adam nor I had any intention of seriously gambling. We decided to each sacrifice about twenty dollars to the gods of probability, with the agreement that if either of us somehow doubled his money, we’d cash out and treat ourselves to dinner.

The casino had other plans. Our machines swallowed the money remarkably efficiently. No jackpot. No fancy dinner. Just free coffee and tea. Honestly, not the worst gambling loss imaginable.

The Idea of Seeing Clearly

Somehow, between exploring Île Notre-Dame, cooling off at the lake and donating twenty dollars to the Casino de Montréal, the subject of eyesight came up.

McGill University in Montreal — one of Canada’s top Universities

I’d worn glasses for most of my adult life and had never been particularly fond of them. They had simply become something I accepted as part of everyday life. Every now and then, though, I’d entertain the idea of getting rid of them permanently. Corrective laser surgery had been sitting somewhere in the back of my mind for years, waiting for some combination of money, trust and courage to make it happen.

Adam’s response was remarkably straightforward. “Why don’t you just get LASIK?” He had already undergone the procedure himself in Montreal and spoke extremely highly of the clinic and its surgeons. He had even specifically researched one particular surgeon, Dr. Bashur, whom he considered to be among the best in the world.

Adam had specifically asked for Bashur himself, but ended up having the procedure performed by his apprentice. The second-best surgeon in the world. At least according to Adam.

Saint Joseph’s Oratory from the Garden of the Way of the Cross

Jokes aside, his recommendation got me seriously thinking. I’d already been considering LASIK for years, but hearing about someone’s firsthand experience — and learning that Montreal indeed had some very highly regarded specialists — pushed the idea much further forward.

And as it turned out, Adam wasn’t going to be the only person encouraging me to take the plunge. Around the same time, the subject came up at work as well.

1000 Rue De la Gauchetière Business Center

I’d been talking with our project manager when he pointed something out to me on a laptop screen. Without my glasses, I couldn’t make out what he was showing me from a few meters away and had to lean practically into the screen to see it. He then rather unexpectedly, gave me almost exactly the same advice.

He had recently undergone LASIK himself and described it as a life-changing experience.

Suddenly I had two people, from the two very different worlds I’d been trying so hard to keep separate, independently recommending the same thing. Maybe the universe was trying to tell me something.

Mary, Queen of the World Cathedral, downtown Montreal

So I decided to listen. It would still take some courage and research on my own part to actually go through with it.

Taking the Plunge

I started doing some serious research into LASIK and, before long, booked an evaluation at a Montreal clinic. The consultation involved a series of tests and scans to assess whether I was actually a suitable candidate. They found that I had both astigmatism and hypermetropia. The astigmatism could apparently be corrected very effectively, while the hypermetropia was a little trickier and meant the result might not be quite as perfect. Still, they expected the procedure to improve my vision substantially and, most importantly, potentially leave me without any need for glasses in everyday life.

That was good enough for me. The clinic and its surgeons also came highly recommended, which helped settle the remaining doubts. I decided to go ahead and booked the surgery for a couple of months later. My nervously joking statement to them was simply: “Please try not to blind me.”

Researching how the procedure worked was unnerving at first, but I soon managed to tap into my inner curiosity. After watching several rendered videos showing the process step by step, I gradually stopped shuddering at the thought of a blade cutting into my eyeballs.

It really was, and still is, I think, the blade aspect that gives people the heebie-jeebies when they think about LASIK. The laser ablation is more abstract. A blade, however, is something everyone can instinctively understand as a sharp, piercing object being brought anywhere near the most vulnerable parts of the human body.

A Gift From the Heavens

With the surgery still several weeks away, life carried on as usual. I returned to northern Quebec for another rotation, and for the moment, LASIK became something lurking somewhere in the back of my mind rather than the immediate concern it would eventually become.

Dusk in Northern Quebec

Then, completely unexpectedly, something rather more exciting came out of nowhere.

Adrien, my old friend from Chicoutimi, sent me a message asking if I’d be interested in a free ticket to a metal concert in Montreal. He was supposed to go himself, but couldn’t make it because of his work schedule — the same kind of two-weeks-on, two-weeks-off life that I was living. Since it was fairly short notice, he was simply going to give the ticket away.

The gesture itself was already incredibly generous. But the band… the band elevated this act to something approaching a gift from the heavens. It was Rammstein.

Love them or hate them, Rammstein are one of the biggest names in metal. They are also famous for putting on some of the most spectacular live shows on the planet, combining their heavy music with elaborate theatrics, enormous stage effects, and enough fire and pyrotechnics to make the average concert look like a school talent show.

Nicknamed the Bumblebee, this Bell 212 was the biggest helicopter we ever had on the project. Only available option at the time. Looked and sounded badass… and cost the project a small fortune

I was speechless. Of course I accepted. My shift would end a few days before the concert, so the timing worked out perfectly. Respect and a huge shout-out to my man Adrien. Thanks again for the fantastic gift!

The Build-Up

The spontaneous concert gave me something else to occupy my mind during my August time off. Work helped too. When I was up north, I could completely immerse myself in work and shut out everything happening back home, including the surgery slowly approaching on the horizon. It made the waiting period considerably easier.

The Bumblebee in action. Slinging equipment in the field

I also discovered that one of my colleagues, let’s call him Max, who I had gradually become friends with, was going to the concert as well. So on the evening of August 21, we met up and, together with some of his friends, headed toward the mass of people gathering on Saint Helen’s Island at Parc Jean-Drapeau.

The sheer scale of the event was already obvious on the metro. The trains heading toward Jean-Drapeau were packed with metalheads of every variety.

Once we reached the island, things got even more serious. The whole setup looked less like an ordinary concert and more like a small temporary festival. Booths and bars lined the walkways toward the stage, selling merchandise, food and drinks, while tens of thousands of people gradually packed into the enormous concert area.

And then there was the stage.

The Towering Black Citadel

Rammstein had brought their enormous custom-built stadium production with them, designed specifically around the band’s particular brand of theatrical insanity. A towering central structure dominated the scene, crowned by the giant illuminated Rammstein logo. The whole thing looked less like a stage and more like some enormous industrial fortress that had been dropped into the middle of the island.

The mythical Rammstein stage in all its glory

There was a very good reason for that. Rammstein’s pyrotechnics are so extensive that the production is effectively built around them. The 2022 stage incorporated specially engineered pyro systems and custom touring structures, with the central tower alone rising roughly fifty meters into the air. The Montreal production was around sixty meters wide, and getting the whole monster from one city to the next required a staggering logistical operation.

The area in front of the stage was divided into several sections. The very front was the infamous Feuerzone, essentially the place where you voluntarily paid extra to stand closer to the flames. We had regular tickets, but managed to squeeze our way nearly to the front of our section. This was as close as we could get to the stage. Two enormous towers stood on either side of us, already giving us a pretty good indication of what was about to happen.

As dusk settled over Montreal, the lights came on.

The beginning of a word-class spectacle

Then, with the thunderous roar of more than forty thousand of people, Rammstein took the stage.

A Night of Fire

Rammstein had been one of the first bands that got me into metal nearly two decades earlier. My musical tastes had long since moved toward more technical and complex styles, but they had, and always would remain an iconic and legendary band for me.

Standing there in front of that mighty stage, headbanging alongside thousands of other fans while hearing their music performed live, felt like a genuinely historic experience.

A night to remember

Max and I sang along to most of the songs. Well… sang is perhaps being generous. We shouted the lyrics in tandem, in our respective broken and mediocre German.

Meanwhile, every song seemed to have its own visual identity. The stage constantly transformed between pulsating light shows and what looked like an enormous industrial furnace. As the music intensified, flames erupted not only from the main stage but from the towers on either side of us as well, blasting heat into the night and illuminating the sky.

Like a raging industrial furnace the stage blasted fire and smoke from everywhere

We could feel the heat even from where we stood. I could only imagine what the people in the VIP section directly in front of the stage were experiencing. Absolute pyrotechnic madness. And it was glorious.

Adieu

From beginning to end, it was easily the grandest spectacle I had ever attended. I dare say it was one of the greatest live shows ever.

We later heard that the concert had been so loud that residents of Longueuil, across the St. Lawrence River, had complained about the noise. Considering the concert was taking place on an island with no residential neighborhood immediately surrounding it, that was quite an achievement in itself.

After roughly two hours of adrenaline-pumping spectacle, the show eventually reached its emotional finale. The final song was Adieu.

Fittingly enough, the title itself seemed almost tailor-made for the occasion.

End credits rolling after a phenomenal performance

The song stayed with us long after the concert was over. In fact, my colleague and I liked it so much that it eventually became something of a ritual at work. For months afterward, we’d play Adieu on our last day before heading off for our time off.

The song had become the unofficial soundtrack to saying goodbye to another rotation.

The concert had been absolutely epic, and I genuinely hope Adrien eventually got to experience it himself. It was one of those shows that I think every metalhead should see at least once in their lifetime.

The Season Begins to Wind Down

The summer had passed, and early September found me back up north for another rotation. The field season was gradually winding down, the air was getting noticeably colder. My LASIK appointment was no longer some distant event sitting on the calendar. It was getting close.

Fortunately, there was still plenty of work to keep my mind occupied. By this point, my paperwork with the Ordre des géologues du Québec had finally been approved, and I had officially moved into the exploration geologist role. After months of working in the core shack and watching the other geologists log, I was finally getting to do it myself.

Mad scientist with a hand-held “laser gun”

It was a transition I had been looking forward to since early summer. I had spent a lot of time observing how the others approached their logs, comparing their interpretations with what I could see in the core and gradually developing my own ideas about how I would approach the same task. Now I finally had the opportunity to put all of that accumulated knowledge into practice.

The learning curve seemed mild and enjoyable. Just as teching had eventually turned into a little friendly competition, logging soon became its own informal race. How much core could you get through? How quickly could you log it without sacrificing quality? Who was the fastest logger in this part of the core shack?

It was another welcome distraction from the increasingly imminent LASIK appointment.

Team Dynamics

The team itself had also continued to evolve. One of the newer additions over the summer was a French geologist I had become quite friendly with. I’ll call him Luc. He had previously worked for another exploration company before joining us, along with several other French colleagues.

The all too familiar bridge just before Mirage — a place we’d sometimes stroll across for an evening walk after work

Interestingly, that was the same company I had nearly ended up working for earlier that year, before ultimately accepting the position that brought me to Mirage. Hearing Luc and the others talk about their experiences there made me realize just how close I had come to taking a very different path. Let’s just say that, in hindsight, I had apparently dodged a fairly substantial bullet.

Luc and I also discovered that we shared a similar brand of European humor, which made working together particularly entertaining. We were both fairly ambitious and competitive by nature, and that attitude quickly found its way into more than just our geological work. Before long, we were competing over logging speed and quality during the day, and occasionally recreational activities after hours.

The Garage Gym

There wasn’t really a gym at Mirage, or at least, not much of one at the time. So, as usual, we improvised.

I had been pushing for more regular workouts after our shifts, partly because I genuinely wanted to train and partly because getting other people involved gave me an extra reason to do it myself. We used whatever we could find around camp. For a while, some wide wooden beams served as our pull-up bars. The garage door also became an improvised piece of strength-training equipment.

At one point, Luc and I turned one-arm shoulder presses into yet another completely unnecessary competition. He won… by just one repetition. Considering that we were both taking the whole thing far more seriously than was remotely necessary, I was ridiculously proud of how close it had been. I suspect he was a little surprised too.

Drilling day and night

The improvised workouts became another small part of our routine. Nothing fancy, nothing resembling a proper gym, but it gave us something physical to do after twelve-hour shifts and another excuse to mess around with each other.

Looking back, it was these little things that made the camp experience so enjoyable. We were working hard, but we were also gradually developing our own routines, competitions and inside jokes. But the work shift wasn’t going to last forever. Soon enough, I was back on the plane, heading home to Montreal and I had a rather intimidating appointment waiting for me in just a few days.

The Night Before

I lay in bed the night before the procedure, trying to calm my nerves. Slowly coming to grips with the fact that it was out of my hands now. I wasn’t going to chicken out at the last minute. After all, I was going to be in the hands of some very highly qualified professionals… who hopefully wouldn’t leave me blind.

Oh well. At least I got to see Rammstein live with my own eyes. What more could I ask for?

What will be will be.

The Waiting Game

At the LASIK clinic on the day of the surgery, I spent a considerable amount of time signing various forms and papers across different offices, as well as paying the hefty sum for the procedure. Each checkpoint brought me one step closer to the surgery. And each step came with another stretch of waiting. The waiting was the worst part. It gave my imagination more time to come up with things to worry about.

At the time I felt like I was sitting on this guy — porcupine sculpture at the Montréal Botanical Garden

The staff knew this quite well and offered patients a Xanax pill if they wished. Despite my nervousness, however, I refused it. Was it my stubbornness? Hard-headedness? Was I trying to prove some macho point to myself? I don’t know. All I know is that I wanted to confront the whole thing with a clear mind and remain fully aware of what was happening.

Eventually, after the long paper trail, I found myself sitting in a sofa chair in the dimly lit hallway next to the operating room. I watched the patients ahead of me go through the various stages before entering the room myself. Eventually, the nurse came to me.

I tilted my head back as instructed so she could put the local anaesthetic drops into my eyes. Except “drops” wasn’t really the right word. It felt more like a water fountain of liquid solution being blasted directly into my eyeballs. She kindly reminded me to keep my eyes open. I did my best to comply, despite my eyes being absolutely drenched in the stuff.

After the eye shower, I didn’t immediately feel anything. The nurse told me it would start feeling a little strange. Within a couple of minutes, it sure did.

My eyes after the anesthetic drops… basically this well (Montreal Botanical Gardens)

The best way I can describe it is that my eyes felt drunk. My brain and everything else felt completely normal, conscious and aware, yet my eyes somehow felt as though they were floating independently of the rest of me. Weird stuff.

A few minutes later, I was invited into the operating room.

Meet the Best in the World

The surgeon introduced himself as Dr. Bashur, the best in the world. I replied “Oh, I know. I read your résumé.” What a boss introduction. Somehow, that immediately made me feel more relaxed.

The room itself had a very calming ambience. The lighting was dim and warm, and the whole place genuinely felt inviting. I had to give them credit: they were doing a very good job of making what was about to happen feel considerably less terrifying.

Soon enough, I was lying down on the operating table and receiving instructions from the staff. They gently positioned my head into the support apparatus and secured it in place. At one point, I recall Dr. Bashur asking me to blink. So I did. Awkwardly. “No, no. Blink normally.” I tried again. “Is that normal?” I started laughing. Apparently I had forgotten what normal, relaxed blinking was like.

Once I passed the blinking test, they prepared my eyes for the procedure and somehow secured my eyelids in place. I’m not entirely sure what mechanism they used; I remember feeling some light pressure, but there was no real discomfort.

Then came the most important instruction: don’t blink, and simply stare at the green light on the optics of the laser device that had been brought up close to my face. They even gave me a stress ball and told me that if I felt the urge to blink, I could simply squeeze it instead.

My mission objectives were clear. Stare at the green dot at all costs. No blinking. I was in a video game.

Then they began talking to each other in their strange alien doctor language, throwing around various technical terms that I couldn’t understand.

Mad Scientist Mode

After all the videos I’d watched, I had the entire procedure more or less memorized in my head. Once they began, I found myself curiously paying attention to each step and mentally visualizing what part of the process they were performing. After stressing about it for the entire morning in the waiting rooms, I somehow managed to flip a switch in my head. My scientific curiosity completely overrode whatever anxiety was still lingering.

The staff also made sure to tell me what I was about to see or not see. At one point they warned me that things in my right eye would go dark or fuzzy for a few moments. They then covered the eye with some kind of device. Soon afterwards, the device was removed and I could see again, although everything was considerably blurrier. I could also make out what looked like a piece of something sitting on my eye.

From everything I’d learned, I knew what this was. They had made the incision and lifted the famous LASIK flap. Holy… crap. I had a piece of my eye… on my eye. My mind was blown. This was insane. In a cool way. I didn’t feel a thing, by the way.

Also, the “blade” they used apparently wasn’t really a knife-like object as I’d imagined. It was more like a tiny sliding potato peeler. Which, when you think about it, makes sense. Eyes are kind of potato-shaped… Next came the laser. I could hear the machine priming itself before producing the familiar rapid-fire ta-ta-ta-ta-ta sound.

I was already quite familiar with laser ablation from my own research work, although I’d used it on minerals rather than human eyeballs. Then came the smell. It was faint, but unmistakable. The same smell as when we caught insects in the electric bug zapper during my work rotations. Ho…ly… crap. I was smelling my eyes burning. WIIIILD.

I’m telling you, I was in full mad-scientist mode, even though I was the subject being operated on. And somehow, this made the whole thing absolutely fascinating rather than scary.

And Then It Was Over

They repeated the procedure on the other eye and then covered both eyes, letting them rest for about a minute. Afterwards, they examined both eyes with their observation equipment and quickly gave me the green light to go home, along with instructions for medication and rest over the following days.

The entire procedure had taken less than ten minutes. I never felt any actual pain throughout it. There was some mild discomfort once or twice, but really, nothing worth writing home about.

Afterwards, my eyes felt strange. I was given a pair of black plastic protective glasses, but even with them on, once I stepped outside I could somehow feel the wind blowing into my eyes. Like… inside them. That was weird. And not particularly pleasant.

I’d asked the person at reception to call me a taxi, so I didn’t have to wait long before getting into one. I could see, but the combination of the discomfort and the knowledge of what my poor eyes had just been subjected to made me keep them closed as much as possible, only opening them slightly when I needed to see where I was going.

Once home, I lay down on the couch and called my mom to update her. We talked for about an hour while I rested my eyes before I eventually ventured out to buy the necessary eye drops at the pharmacy.

I was still wary of opening my eyes too much. But I vividly remember the first moment I looked into the distance while walking down the street. The sharpness of my vision was incredible. I could make out an old lady’s face from across the street. And this was barely a couple of hours after surgery.

My friends were right. This really was life-changing

Laser Eyes

Any lingering discomfort and strange sensations were gone by the second day. I took care to drastically limit my screen time and simply rest and medicate my eyes as instructed.

The following morning, I returned to the clinic for my first follow-up appointment. It was a Saturday, and the otherwise busy downtown building was eerily quiet. The only people wandering through the elegant marble-clad corridors seemed to be other post-op patients like myself, silently making their way to and from the clinic. All of us wearing the exact same black shades. We were agents of the Matrix. The follow-up went well. My eyes seemed to be healing fine. Just some lingering inflammation that could last for a while. The eye drops would help with that.

I got upgraded

Over the following weeks, I kept testing my vision while walking around the city. I’d often find myself wondering whether I was still seeing as well as before, or perhaps better, or maybe somehow worse.

The mind has a funny way of adapting to new visual settings very quickly, so after a while it became surprisingly difficult to judge whether anything had actually changed without a professional test. As I read, second-guessing yourself after the procedure was apparently quite common and could persist for a long time.

Hell, even today, years later, I still occasionally catch myself wondering: Do I still see that well? Has anything changed? The best way to know, of course, is to get a proper checkup. So far, so good.

The Comfort of Independence

My LASIK experience had been overwhelmingly positive. But another thing worth noting in retrospect was the fact that I had gone through the entire process alone.

I mean, I obviously had supportive and encouraging words from my family, but physically, I was alone. I never asked anyone for help. Not even something as simple as a car ride home after the procedure, which I’m sure any of my colleagues would have gladly offered.

No. I chose to do this alone, just as I had chosen to do many things alone over the previous years. I don’t know if that was a good or a bad thing. Maybe neither. I’m not even trying to make some grand statement about it. I’m simply observing that somewhere along my journey, I had become extremely independent.

Another one of Montreal’s fantastic murals

Part of it was probably my undying pride, still clinging to the idea that I could and would do anything and everything on my own. Not to prove a point to anyone. Not even to myself anymore. Just because.

I guess it had become my comfort zone. I had learned to trust myself more than anyone else. Perhaps to the detriment of my relationships with other people.

By that point, the thought had begun floating around in my head that perhaps I had developed some serious trust issues over the past years. But who cares, I’d say. People come and go anyway. I’d always have myself to keep me company.

The Last Rotation

I was back up at Mirage for my final rotation of the year. The weather had turned grey and grim, with plenty of rain and fog. The last of the helicopters were now struggling to take off in these conditions, making field operations more difficult this late in the season. We were slowly closing up the final drill holes and finishing our work in the core shack. The hectic, high-energy environment of the summer had gradually dialed down into a much more mellow pace.

Our resident fox was back roaming around the camp

Among our team, we were discussing plans for the rest of the year. I definitely had some big ideas for late October: a well-deserved week of sun and fun somewhere far to the south, close to the ocean. We also discussed our futures with the company, since many of us were still working on temporary contracts that would be ending soon. Our field lead assured me and the others that we would be back the following year.

That was very comforting to hear. I had thoroughly enjoyed my professional journey with them so far and was very keen on staying.

Flying back to Montreal after the last rotation

Thus, my field adventures in 2022 were coming to a close on a very hopeful note. On top of that, I now had my newfound sharp eyesight. Not 100% exactly, but something like 85%, according to the last checkup. It was a good number. More importantly, I didn’t need glasses anymore. Not for driving. Not for anything. I was happy with it.

I had also experienced one of the greatest live shows on Earth during the summer.

And to think that earlier the same year I was still in frozen Chicoutimi, recovering mentally from the nuclear year that was 2021 and dealing with my best friend moving back to Europe. By this point, I had experienced so much already. 2022 truly felt like the antithesis of 2021. But it wasn’t over just yet.

Mr. squirrel had big plans

The sunny shores of South Beach, Miami, were waiting for me. There was just one small complication.

Before I could get there, I had to deal with the rather complicated matter of getting into the United States. And that meant taking a little detour back to August, when I found myself travelling to Ottawa on a rather unusual mission: obtaining a US visa.

That adventure deserves its own story.

New Home, New Adventures: Montreal and Beyond

New Home, New Adventures: Montreal and Beyond

Every move comes with a honeymoon period. The boxes are still unpacked, the neighborhood is unfamiliar, and every street corner carries the promise of discovering something new. After years of moving from place to place, I had learned to cherish those first few weeks more than anything else.

Moving to Montreal was no exception.

Barely settled into my new apartment, I wasted no time hitting the sunny late-spring streets to discover my surroundings. Some outings were out of necessity, like figuring out the best supermarkets and shopping centres nearby. Others were driven purely by curiosity. During that first week, I would simply pick a direction each morning and spend the next few hours wandering wherever the streets happened to take me.

Discovering Montreal

My first walking spree took me to the top of Mount Royal. I wanted to get a panoramic view of my new home, and Mount Royal Park was the perfect place to find it.

The Mount Royal Cross

Spanning nearly 2 square kilometers of forested hillsides, the park offered a spider web of trails and roads weaving their way across the mountain. From the grand staircase in the east to the Mount Royal Cross in the north and Beaver Lake in the southwest, there was plenty of ground to cover. Walkers, runners and cyclists shared the park with squirrels, raccoons and countless birds, making the mountain feel alive despite sitting in the middle of one of Canada’s largest cities.

The stairway up to Kondiaronk Belvedere

Several lookout points provided sweeping views of the vast urban landscape surrounding the park. However, the best spot of all was the Kondiaronk Belvedere. This was the premier scenic viewpoint for the Montreal skyline, brimming with tourists every summer, all clamoring for the perfect photo.

As was I. The difference was that I wasn’t a tourist. Not this time. I was a resident, and I had just found my happy place.

My first time seeing the city from Kondiaronk Belvedere

Over the following years, whenever I needed to walk off troubling thoughts or simply wanted a place to unwind, I would always return to Mount Royal and the Kondiaronk Belvedere. Spring, summer, autumn or winter, rain or shine, the breathtaking view of Montreal from this spot never failed to put a smile on my face and remind me of just how far I had come. I had found my new sanctuary.

Downtown Montreal

The following days, I continued exploring the city towards downtown and the St. Lawrence River.

I was fortunate enough to live not only a ten-minute walk from Mount Royal Park, but also just steps away from Sainte-Catherine Street, Montreal’s primary commercial artery.

Following the street eastwards for about ten minutes would bring me to one of the city’s most iconic landmarks, the Eaton Centre. This time, however, I found myself drawn towards a small park in the heart of downtown called Dorchester Square. It was a relatively small and quaint green space, teeming with squirrels and surrounded by soaring glass towers alongside elegant neo-classical buildings. In many ways, it reminded me of Madison Square Park in Manhattan.

The Eaton Centre with its iconic pyramid shaped top. View from Dorchester Square

I found myself comparing Montreal with New York surprisingly often. New York had long been my dream North American city, and as I explored Montreal, I began to understand why the two felt so familiar.

Both cities rose to prominence during the nineteenth century as major Atlantic ports connecting North America with Europe. They expanded outward from their historic waterfronts into sprawling metropolises, creating a rich architectural tapestry rarely found in younger inland cities. They were both home to remarkably diverse populations from every corner of the globe, and each was built around an impressive urban oasis that offered a welcome escape from the surrounding skyline.

The Sun Life Building in Dorchester Square

The difference was that New York ultimately won the race for commerce, growing into a city roughly three times the size of Montreal.

Lachine Canal

Taking a slight detour south, I eventually found myself on the shores of the Lachine Canal.

Today, the canal is a peaceful recreational area lined with walking and cycling paths, but nearly two centuries ago it was one of the most important pieces of infrastructure in Canada. Opened in 1825 to bypass the dangerous Lachine Rapids on the St. Lawrence River, it became the gateway to an inland canal network stretching deep into the North American continent. Together with the nearby Port of Montreal, it transformed the city into one of Canada’s foremost industrial and commercial centres, attracting factories, warehouses and thousands of workers to its banks.

The Lachine Canal

Walking alongside the canal, it wasn’t difficult to imagine that industrious past. Scattered along the waterfront were relics of Montreal’s industrial heyday, each accompanied by information panels telling the stories behind them. On my way towards the Old Port, I passed several historic lock systems before reaching the old CNR Wellington Swing Bridge. Permanently left in its open position, the bridge now stands as a monument to a bygone era when ships and freight traffic dominated these waterways.

One of the old lock system on the Lachine Canal

Leaving the canal behind, I turned back towards the city through a neighborhood that immediately caught my attention. Griffintown, once a bustling industrial district serving the nearby port, had been transformed into one of Montreal’s most fashionable neighborhoods.

Sleek condominium buildings stood beside trendy cafés, inviting green spaces and lively terraces, giving the area a distinctly modern feel. Strangely enough, it reminded me of the newer waterfront districts of Copenhagen. It was exactly the kind of neighborhood I could picture myself living in… if not for the equally modern property prices.

Old Montreal

Not far from the Old Port stood another of Montreal’s iconic landmarks: the Notre-Dame Basilica.

Completed during the nineteenth century in the Gothic Revival style, the basilica quickly became one of the city’s defining landmarks and remains one of the most visited churches in North America. Its twin towers rise prominently above Old Montreal. Unfortunately, one of the towers was undergoing a multi-year renovation, so I never got to see the church without scaffoldings and protective webbing.

The Notre-Dame Basilica in Old Town, Montreal

The basilica was only one highlight among many. Old Montreal itself felt like stepping into another era. Elegant neoclassical buildings lined the streets alongside beautifully restored red-brick warehouses that had once served the bustling port. Many had found new life as boutique hotels, offices, restaurants and luxurious apartments, preserving the character of the city’s earliest days while embracing the modern world.

For the time being, however, I resisted the temptation to explore every corner of the district. There would be plenty of opportunities to return. I headed back to my little corner of the city, content knowing there was still so much left to discover.

Saint Joseph’s Oratory

The following day, my walk took me west.

After passing through the charming anglophone neighborhood of Westmount, another landmark on Google Maps caught my attention. As I would soon discover, the Notre-Dame Basilica wasn’t the only monumental church Montreal had to offer. Perched high on the slopes of Mount Royal stood Saint Joseph’s Oratory.

Completely different in architectural style from Notre-Dame Basilica, yet equally impressive in its own way, the massive Renaissance Revival church dominates the western side of the mountain with its enormous copper dome. Founded in 1904 by Saint Brother André Bessette, whose reputation for compassion and reported miraculous healings drew pilgrims from across the country, the oratory has since become Canada’s largest church and one of the world’s most important pilgrimage sites.

Saint Joseph’s Oratory of Mount Royal on the west side of Montreal

Unfortunately, I never actually made it to the oratory that day. From where I stood, the entire area in front of it appeared to be one enormous construction site, and I simply assumed the church was closed to visitors. It wasn’t until several months later, when I returned to the neighborhood, that I discovered I could have approached it from another direction all along. The construction work had only affected the large forecourt, while the oratory itself had remained open the entire time.

A Friendly Reunion

Barely a week after settling into my new apartment, I welcomed my first guest from across the Atlantic: Moritz, from Germany.

Moritz and I had first met back in 2018 during EUGEN Austria, and we had stayed in touch on and off over the years. Like me, he loved travelling, and a few months earlier he had mentioned how much he wanted to visit Canada. When I told him I would soon be moving to Montreal, I offered him a place to stay if he ever made the trip.

Fast forward a few months, and here we were, meeting again after three years. It was great to see a familiar face so far from home.

Unfortunately for Moritz, there was one small problem. Some of the furniture I had ordered for the apartment still hadn’t arrived. Most notably… the couch. The very couch he was supposed to sleep on.

Well… it was time to roll out the foam mattress and sleeping bag, claim a spot in the middle of the living room, and make the best of it.

A Triumphant Return to Normalcy

My move to Montreal also happened to coincide with another long-awaited milestone: the world was finally beginning to return to normal. COVID restrictions were gradually disappearing, concerts and festivals were back on the calendar, and for the first time in years, large gatherings no longer felt like a distant memory.

Around the time Moritz arrived, I already had tickets for what would become my first concert in three years. My first concert since leaving Europe. My first since the long years of lockdowns, cancelled events and isolation. To make it even better, the headliner was Symphony X—my favorite band.

Scheduled to play in the Corona Theater… Talk about irony and foreshadowing

The timing almost felt unreal. I had first seen them live a few months after moving to Copenhagen years earlier, and now, barely a week after settling in Montreal, they were once again playing in the very city I had just begun calling home. It almost felt as though they were welcoming me into yet another new chapter of my life.

As if that weren’t enough, one of the opening bands was Haken, another group that had rapidly climbed into my list of all-time favourites over the previous couple of years. The more I listened to them, the more I was captivated by their unique blend of progressive metal, technical brilliance and memorable songwriting. By the time this concert came around, they had comfortably earned a place among my five favourite bands.

Needless to say, missing this concert was never an option.

Me and Mo at the show

Although Moritz wasn’t particularly familiar with either band, he was a fellow metal fan and happily joined me for the evening. Naturally, I squeezed my way as close to the stage as I could to fully embrace my inner fanboy, while he wisely opted for a more relaxed spot near the back.

Legends on stage receiving an ovation from the crowd

The performances were every bit as incredible as I had hoped. Yet beyond the music itself, what struck me most was the atmosphere. Thousands of passionate fans, singing every lyric, cheering between songs and simply enjoying the chance to gather again after years of restrictions. It wasn’t just a concert. It felt like a celebration that life had finally returned to normal.

Playing Tour Guide

The following day we set out to explore more of Montreal.

I had still barely scratched the surface of what the city had to offer, so apart from Mount Royal and Old Montreal, I wasn’t entirely sure where to take my guest. Fortunately, Moritz had arrived with a surprisingly well-prepared bucket list, so for the day I happily became his tour guide.

The Jacques Cartier Bridge over the Saint Laurent River

Our first stop was Saint Helen’s Island.

Together with its sister island, Île Notre-Dame, it forms the heart of Parc Jean-Drapeau, one of Montreal’s largest recreational areas. Originally expanded for Expo 67, the islands have since become one of the city’s premier entertainment destinations.

Walking and cycling trails weave through parks, lakes and gardens, while open-air gyms, beaches and swimming facilities offer plenty of opportunities to enjoy the warmer months. The area is also home to La Ronde, Montreal’s largest amusement park, the Biosphere environmental museum, and several venues that host major festivals and concerts throughout the summer.

The Biosphere environmental museum on Saint Helen’s Island

Whether arriving by metro, bicycle or car, it is the kind of place where spending an entire day is effortless. We wandered around for well over an hour and still felt as though we had barely begun exploring everything the islands had to offer.

Eventually we returned to the Island of Montreal, emerging from Berri-UQAM station before making our way towards the Old Port.

The Old Port

One landmark that had caught my attention from Saint Helen’s Island was the Old Port Clock Tower.

The Old Port marina and Clock Tower

Standing proudly at the entrance to the harbor since the early 1920s, the tower was built as a memorial to Canadian sailors lost during the First World War. Nearby, a pair of historic cannons stood watch over the waterfront, quietly recalling Montreal’s long maritime history.

Mounting canons near the Clock Tower

The rest of the Old Port, however, was anything but quiet.

The waterfront buzzed with activity. Pleasure boats drifted in and out of the marina, families wandered between attractions, and tourists filled the boardwalk. The Montreal Science Centre, the towering Ferris wheel, Cirque du Soleil’s Grand Chapiteau, a pirate-themed amusement area and even a zip line stretching across the harbor ensured there was something for visitors of every age.

La Grande Roue de Montréal

Once again, I found myself amazed by just how much Montreal had to offer. The contrast with Chicoutimi couldn’t have been greater. Oddly enough, I didn’t need to experience every attraction to appreciate living there. Simply knowing they were all within easy reach gave the city an energy that I had sorely missed. Montreal felt alive.

Afternoon

Before heading back towards downtown, we stopped at a small jazz bar tucked away on one of the cobbled streets near Notre-Dame Basilica. I ordered what was probably the fanciest poutine I’d had up to that point, accompanied by a well-earned beer while a live jazz trio played in the background.

The mysterious bar somewhere in the Old Town

To this day, I have no idea what the place was called.

I’ve tried finding it again more than once, but without success.

Spinning around Downtown Montreal

After a short break back at my apartment, we made one final climb up Mount Royal to enjoy the panoramic view before sunset. Along the way, I became more familiar with Sherbrooke Street, passing landmarks such as the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, the elegant Ritz-Carlton and many other beautiful buildings that I would come to know well over the following years.

The Eye by David Altmejd, outside the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts on Sherbrooke Street

The next adventure, however, would take us well beyond the city limits.

Pedro was driving down from Chicoutimi with a friend to pick us up, and together we were about to set off on a three-day road trip to one of Canada’s most iconic destinations: Niagara Falls.

A Reunion on the Road

Just before our journey began, Moritz discovered that another one of our EUGEN friends from Austria, Sophie, was also in Canada at the time, taking part in a research program in Ottawa. One thing quickly led to another, and before we knew it, we had a fifth member joining the trip. We just had to make a small detour through Cornwall to pick her up on the way to Niagara.

What had started as a little road trip between friends was turning into quite the reunion.

Ornate 19th-century architecture in Old Town, Montreal

It had only been about half a year since I had briefly visited Niagara Falls on the return journey from a conference in London. That visit, however, had been little more than a quick stop. We were pressed for time because of the long drive back to Montreal, and the limited parking around the falls was both scarce and expensive. There was barely enough time to take in the view before getting back on the road.

This time was different. We were actually going to stay.

We had booked two nights in Niagara, giving Pedro, who would be doing all the driving, at least one full day to relax between the long journeys. It also meant we could finally take our time and explore the area properly rather than treating the falls as a glorified roadside stop.

Montreal’s rubber-tired Metro trains and the curious peanut-butter scent of their brakes — a transit story all their own

There was, however, one small logistical problem I had to deal with before we left.

I was expecting a pair of Fjällräven pants I had ordered for work. At some point before the road trip, I received a notification that the package had been delivered and left in the lobby downstairs. Except when I got home, there was no package. I searched around the lobby, checked the usual places and, if I remember correctly, even asked the building management whether they had seen anything. Nothing.

It seemed my brand-new work pants had simply been yoinked.

With the Niagara trip approaching, there wasn’t much I could do about it. So, somewhere along the road to Cornwall, while Pedro was driving us towards Niagara, I found myself on the phone with Fjällräven explaining that my pants had apparently vanished into thin air.

They checked with the delivery company, which confirmed that the package had indeed been delivered to the correct address. Great… Except I still didn’t have my pants.

Why are you eating upside down, squirrel? You’re not in Australia…

Fortunately, Fjällräven were remarkably helpful. Since the delivery company considered the package delivered but I clearly hadn’t received it, they agreed to send me another pair.

And so, somewhere on the road to Niagara Falls, while a spontaneous road trip was unfolding around me and we were about to pick up Sophie, I was simultaneously trying to solve the mystery of my missing trousers.

It was becoming that kind of month.

Off to Niagara

The weather was looking rather miserable when we set off. The sky remained overcast for most of the drive, and I think we even caught some rain when we stopped in Cornwall to pick up Sophie. But as we continued west along Lake Ontario, the clouds gradually began to break apart. By the time we reached Niagara in the late afternoon, the skies had cleared and we were greeted by beautiful sunshine. It was a little windy, but after the dreary start to the journey, I wasn’t about to complain.

Dramatic clouds giving way to a blue sky above Lake Ontario

I was genuinely happy with how this rather spontaneous trip was coming together.

I was particularly grateful that Pedro had agreed to make the drive. Without a car, there wasn’t really an easy way for Moritz to get from Montreal to Niagara and back, and otherwise he would have travelled all the way across the Atlantic only to see Montreal. Renting a car was certainly an option, but it would have added considerably to the cost, and I had never been particularly enthusiastic about driving myself around unfamiliar roads when there were alternatives.

So having Pedro behind the wheel was a bit of a lifesaver, even if his theatrical Rio-driving style occasionally had our more Germanic passengers gripping their seats and sweating a little.

After settling into our rooms at the Days Inn, we started looking for somewhere to grab some food and drinks. It didn’t take long before one particularly famous establishment caught our attention.

The over-the-top side of Niagara Falls: giant ducks, cars stuck in walls, and enough neon kitsch to rival Vegas

Right across from our hotel was a Hooters. Some of us responded with the appropriate amount of facepalming at the suggestion. Moritz, however, couldn’t resist the opportunity to have a drink in one of America’s most famous, or infamous, bar chains.

Having satisfied that particular curiosity, we eventually headed back out for a stroll around Niagara in the evening before returning to the hotel.

Niagara Falls in Full Force

The following morning we were all fresh and full of energy. We had several activities in mind, so we started with a morning walk around the falls.

Spring at Niagara

The parks and walkways surrounding the falls were vibrant green, with colorful flowers blooming everywhere. Canada geese honked and grazed around the lawns while the sky remained beautifully clear. After the dreary start to our journey the previous day, we couldn’t have asked for better weather.

We continued with a walking tour down into the gorge, where we were each handed a thin yellow rain poncho. They made us all look like we had been wrapped in recycled garbage bags, and initially we weren’t entirely convinced they were necessary. Turns out… they were.

An epic view of Niagara from near the grand waterfall

The trail brought us remarkably close to the side of the waterfall, where a constant spray of water filled the air. By the time we reached the closest viewpoints, the ponchos were doing their job.

With my yellow trash bag, shorts, cheap flip-flops and a pair of ridiculous round sunglasses I had just bought, I felt like I was attempting to make some sort of fashion statement.

Some people simply aren’t ready for this level of style

After touring the falls, we jumped back into the car and drove down to Niagara-on-the-Lake, a small historic town near the mouth of the Niagara River. My mother had suggested that we visit it, having once visited a friend who lived there many years earlier and remembering the place fondly. It was easy to see why.

Niagara-on-the-Lake

Niagara-on-the-Lake had a completely different atmosphere from the frenetic tourist center around the falls. Its neatly maintained streets were lined with colorful flowerbeds, historic buildings, small shops, restaurants and charming pubs, giving the town an almost idyllic, old-fashioned character. Everything looked remarkably polished and prosperous, yet the pace was relaxed and unhurried.

Clock Tower in the heart of Niagara-on-the-Lake

The town also gave us a chance to appreciate just how strategically positioned this corner of Ontario was. From the shores of Lake Ontario, we could see cargo ships moving across the water, while the distant Toronto skyline was visible on the horizon. With my camera’s zoom, I could make out the CN tower and some of the city’s skyscrapers from afar.

At the mouth of the Niagara River, the United States suddenly seemed incredibly close. The river itself formed the border, with American territory lying only a short distance away across the water. Two historic forts stood on opposite sides as reminders of how strategically important the region had once been: Fort George on the Canadian side and the considerably more imposing-looking Old Fort Niagara across the river in New York.

Old Fort Niagara on the US side of the Niagara River

Naturally, this gave Pedro and me an opportunity to start making jokes about how everything on the American side somehow looked better.

We were foreigners who had already spent several years living in Canada, after all. We knew enough about the Canadian system to complain about it, while knowing little to nothing about the American one. Obviously, the only reasonable conclusion was that things must be better over there. The grass is always greener on the other side. There were even a few jokes about being able to “smell freedom” from the American side of the river while we remained trapped in socialist Canada. Mostly jokes, of course.

Zoom in on the Toronto skyline across Lake Ontario

After the experience of the pandemic years, Pedro and I had developed a deep distaste for the increasingly restrictive measures imposed by Canadian governments in the name of protecting the public. The severity of some of the lockdowns, the pressure surrounding vaccination, and the heavy-handed response to the Freedom Convoy had left me with a lingering feeling that personal liberty had too often been treated as something that could simply be suspended whenever governments deemed it necessary.

So perhaps our jokes about the greener grass on the other side of the river weren’t entirely without substance.

Heights and Lights

Later that afternoon we returned to Niagara Falls and headed up the Skylon Tower. At just over 150 meters tall, it was nowhere near the height of Toronto’s CN Tower, but it still offered an impressive panorama over the falls, the Niagara River and the surrounding landscape. On a clear day, the view stretches far across Lake Ontario, and the observation deck gave us an excellent perspective of just how enormous the falls and the surrounding tourist district really were.

Niagara Falls from the Skylon Tower observation deck

It also came at a considerably more reasonable price than the CN Tower, which was particularly important given how quickly our collection of parking and tourist expenses was growing.

Afterwards we presumably went somewhere for dinner, although I honestly can’t remember much about that part of the evening. What I do remember was returning to the falls after nightfall.

Group photo from the Skylon Tower

The character of Niagara had completely changed. The crowds had thinned, the surrounding buildings glowed against the darkness, and the waterfalls themselves were illuminated in constantly changing colours. The rushing water became an enormous moving canvas of red, blue, green and purple.

A spectacular nightly color show at Niagara Falls

Once again, Pedro and I couldn’t resist comparing the Canadian and American sides. Naturally, the American lights were better. At least according to us. It became an ongoing joke throughout the evening that apparently everything across the border was superior, including the illumination of a waterfall that very much belonged to both countries.

You Have a Parking Problem

The spectacle certainly fit the character of Niagara Falls itself. The town was, after all, something resembling a Canadian mini-Las Vegas, with casinos, hotels, restaurants, entertainment venues and attractions packed around one of the world’s great natural wonders. The waterfalls provided the natural spectacle; everything around them seemed designed to make sure visitors had plenty of ways to spend money once they were done looking at it.

A dinosaur theme park? Why not?

Speaking of casinos, we had one final activity in mind for the evening. None of us had any serious intention of losing money. We simply wanted to experience one of the casinos for an hour or so, perhaps throw a few dollars into a machine and have a look around.

There was just one problem… Parking.

By this point, we had become increasingly annoyed by how expensive and ubiquitous paid parking seemed to be. Every time we wanted to stop somewhere, another parking fee seemed to be waiting for us. So Pedro took it upon himself to find a free spot somewhere within reasonable walking distance of the casinos.

Too cool for school

This proved to be considerably more difficult than expected. What followed was roughly half an hour of driving around in circles, searching increasingly desperate side streets and finding very little that didn’t come with another hefty fee attached. Eventually, it got late enough that we simply gave up. The casino would have to wait.

We headed back to the hotel instead. We still had a long drive ahead of us the following day, and Pedro in particular needed a good night’s sleep after already having driven us all the way from Chicoutimi the previous day. And with that, our short excursion to Niagara Falls came to an end.

Dinner time somewhere in Niagara Falls

Despite the rushed schedule, the long drives, the endless parking fees and our failed attempt at visiting a casino, I think we had made the most of our day and a half. We had explored the falls from almost every angle, wandered through Niagara-on-the-Lake, admired the views from above and seen the waterfalls transformed by the colorful lights after dark.

But there was still one major stop left on our journey back to Montreal. Toronto.

A Few Hours in Toronto

We had planned to make a stop in Toronto on our way back. None of us had really seen Canada’s biggest city, so we figured we might as well take the opportunity to spend a few hours sightseeing before continuing towards Montreal. Toronto was also a convenient place for Sophie to catch a train back to Ottawa. But first, we all had to see the big ol’ tower. The CN Tower.

Even before reaching Toronto, it was impossible to miss. Rising 553 meters above the city, the tower was for decades the world’s tallest freestanding structure and remains one of the most recognizable landmarks in Canada. Its enormous concrete shaft, topped by a bulbous observation pod and a long antenna mast, sticks out of the Toronto skyline like a needle piercing the sky.

Standing directly beneath it and looking up was almost dizzying.

Daddy long legs and the CN Tower

I wasn’t even sure there was a “correct” distance from which to appreciate something this tall. From right beside it, the tower looked absolutely massive, but the perspective became increasingly difficult to comprehend. Move farther away and it completely dwarfed the surrounding buildings. Further still, from somewhere deeper in the city, it transformed into a giant beacon on the horizon, appearing between buildings and seemingly following you wherever you went.

Theatrical bronze sculptures emerging from the concrete in Toronto

Eventually, it was time to get the inside perspective. But first… Holy crap. C$40 per person!? Okay, perhaps that doesn’t sound quite as outrageous now as it did in my memory. At the time, general admission was C$40 before tax, or about C$45 with HST. I apparently remembered the more expensive SkyPod option, which pushed the price well above C$60 after tax.

Still, that was a lot of money for an elevator ride. Alas, there was only one CN Tower, and we were already there. Up we went.

The CN Tower

A speedy and rather dramatic elevator ride later, we were standing on the Main Observation Level, roughly 346 meters above the ground.

The CN Tower had been completed in 1976 as a massive communications and broadcasting project, at a time when Toronto’s rapidly growing skyline was already creating problems for radio and television signals. It soon became much more than a piece of infrastructure, however. The tower became an icon of Toronto and one of the defining symbols of modern Canada.

Inside the observation level were several sections of glass floor, each providing an opportunity for visitors to test their courage by looking straight down. For me, however, the moment when my balls took their own elevator up to my stomach came much earlier.

The not so dramatic glass floor section

Right after stepping out of the elevator, there was a small gap between the elevator floor and the surrounding platform. Through that crack I could catch a glimpse of the seemingly endless vertical shaft disappearing hundreds of meters below. I could almost imagine my eyes cartoonishly bulging out of their sockets, desperately trying to adjust to the ridiculous depth I was suddenly looking into directly beneath my feet.

That did it.

Fortunately, once I was inside the enclosed observation deck, I felt perfectly fine. Give me a solid floor and a roof over my head and apparently I was comfortable enough to enjoy being almost half a kilometre above the city.

Views from Above

The sky was mostly overcast, but the clouds were high enough that they didn’t obstruct the view. The circular observation deck provided a sweeping panorama in every direction, and the Greater Toronto Area seemed to stretch endlessly into the distance. From this height, the city almost stopped looking like a city and started looking like a map.

A southern view from the CN Tower observation deck

Once we started looking more closely, all sorts of little details began revealing themselves. Just beyond the downtown core, we could see the small islands of Lake Ontario and the airport tucked away on one of them.

Much closer to the tower was the aquarium, its rooftop carrying a simple monochrome mural that looked almost abstract from above. Nearby, the broad, chunky structure of Union Station stood out among the surrounding buildings. The dense cluster of downtown high-rises revealed another amusing detail: swimming pools and what looked like tiny sports courts or even putting greens perched on the rooftops of some of the more luxurious residential towers..

Mandatory group photo from high above the city

From ground level, most of these things were either invisible or completely lost among the surrounding buildings. From up here, the city became a giant three-dimensional puzzle, and we could spend several minutes picking out individual landmarks and trying to work out exactly what we were looking at.

Then Pedro spotted something that made even the tower itself seem slightly less insane.

Just below us, several completely deranged-looking people in bright red jumpsuits were walking along the outside of the tower, attached to a yellow safety line.

Edge Walkers dangling by a thread

They were doing EdgeWalk. At 356 metres above the ground, EdgeWalk is the world’s highest external walk on a building. Participants are harnessed to an overhead safety system and literally walk along the narrow ledge outside the main pod.

Adrenaline junkies. What else could I say?

Definitely not my cup of tea.

A Walk Through Downtown

After descending from the tower, we set off on a leisurely walk through downtown. I don’t remember us having a particularly well-defined route. We mostly wandered around, checking Google Maps for interesting landmarks and deciding where to go next.

Old locomotives and industrial silos at Toronto’s Roundhouse Park

Eventually we reached Nathan Phillips Square, Toronto’s main civic gathering place.

Standing at one end of the square was Old City Hall, an imposing Romanesque Revival building completed in 1899. With its enormous clock tower, stone façade and turrets, it looked almost like a little English castle that had somehow found itself surrounded by the skyscrapers of modern Toronto. It was a neat contrast.

Old City Hall clock tower framed by modern skyscrapers in downtown Toronto

Only a short distance away stood the much newer Toronto City Hall. Designed by Finnish architect Viljo Revell and opened in 1965, the building couldn’t have been more different from its nineteenth-century predecessor. Two enormous curved concrete towers rise around a circular council chamber, creating the somber modern appearance that really stood out from afar.

The contrast between the two city halls was a perfect little snapshot of Toronto itself: nineteenth-century stone architecture standing alongside bold modernist structures, with glass skyscrapers filling in the gaps between them.

The Canada Life Building near Nathan Phillips Square

Nearby stood the Canada Life Building, another imposing landmark of the downtown core.

OTNOROT

Eventually, we unknowingly stumbled upon the famous Toronto sign.

But from the back… OTNOROT.

Welcome to OTNOROT

Just the way we caught it in the photo. And so, for the remainder of the trip, Toronto was officially renamed.

It sounded less like Canada’s largest city and more like the fortified gathering place of some particularly aggressive orc tribe. By then, however, our little Toronto excursion had come to an end.

One more group photo before we hit the road

We still had to get out of the city. And that turned out to be an adventure of its own.

Toronto’s traffic was an absolute head-spinning maze of cars, concrete, ramps and seemingly endless lanes going in every conceivable direction. Pedro, once again, demonstrated his particular brand of driving wizardry as he forced his way through the urban labyrinth and found gaps where I wasn’t entirely convinced gaps actually existed.

Moritz sat silently in the back with what I can only describe as a forced smile… Probably still processing Pedro’s theatrical Rio-driving style.

Sleepy time during the drive back

But once again, a huge shout-out to Pedro. He had already driven us all the way from Chicoutimi to Montreal, then down to Niagara Falls, around the region, into Toronto and now back towards Montreal. And after dropping us off in Montreal, despite my offer of a perfectly respectable patch of apartment floor for him and his friend to sleep on, he simply carried on.

He still had the long drive back to Chicoutimi ahead of him. Somehow, he soldiered on.

The Couch Arrives

The following day, Moritz was packing his belongings and getting ready to leave when I received a rather unexpected call from the delivery company.

My couch was arriving. The timing could not have been more hilarious.

After everything that had happened during his visit, Moritz had still never actually seen the couch he had originally been promised as a bed. Now, on the very day he was leaving, the damn thing had finally arrived.

After his arrival, he had already helped me put up my curtains. Now he was begrudgingly helping me carry in the couch. The couch he was supposed to sleep on. At least he finally got to see it. And, for a brief moment, he could lie down on it and imagine what his Montreal nights might have been like had the furniture delivery company possessed even a shred of decent timing.

Another iconic skyscraper in Montreal — 1000 De La Gauchetière

Not long afterwards, we finally said goodbye with a healthy hug and friendly slap on the back. It had been great having him over.

Our little Niagara adventure had left all of us with some excellent memories. But it had also left me with something else.

A Long Anticipated Showdown

On the drive back to Montreal, I had started developing a scratchy throat, and my voice was beginning to deteriorate. I wasn’t sure what I was coming down with. A cold? The flu?

Or perhaps the villainous coronavirus that had spent the previous two years terrorizing the planet.

I kept messaging the others, asking whether they were feeling alright or developing any symptoms. They were all fine. That made me suspect I had probably picked up whatever this was at the concert rather than during the road trip. The timing certainly made sense. I had been surrounded by thousands of people singing and shouting in an enclosed venue just a few days earlier.

COVID tests were being handed out freely at the time, so I got one and tested myself. The result was inconclusive. I waited another half day and tried again, this time paying considerably more attention to the instructions.

And… A resounding positive. Finally.

After two years of avoiding it, the goddamn boogeyman virus had finally made its way into my body. And, strangely enough, I was almost looking forward to seeing what it could do.

Call it morbid curiosity. Call it overconfidence in my immune system. Perhaps a little bit of both. After two years of hearing about this virus, experiencing the world reorganize itself around it and wondering what an infection would actually feel like, I was mentally prepared for battle.

That night, before going to sleep, I engaged in my own rather unconventional form of meditation. I imagined my body as a fortress that had just discovered an intruder. There was a boogeyman inside. I wanted my immune system to find it, hunt it down and absolutely annihilate it. No mercy. No prisoners.

A group of Chinook helicopters passing over Montreal on a cloudy day

I don’t know how much influence the mind can actually have over the body’s response to an infection, and I’m certainly not claiming that this meditation somehow cured me. Perhaps it was simply coincidence, or perhaps my immune system was already primed for the fight. Perhaps the vaccine I had received more than a year earlier played its part.

Or perhaps my ridiculous little mental pep talk did something after all. Whatever the explanation, the timing was certainly entertaining.

COVID-19 Gets KO’d

The following morning, the scratchiness in my throat was already subsiding, if not mostly gone. I had some mild muscle aches and felt somewhat fatigued, so I took it easy and spent the day relaxing on my brand-new couch, laptop in lap.

Good food. Plenty of water. An afternoon nap. That was about it.

By the following day, the muscle aches and fatigue were gone completely, replaced by increasingly intense nasal congestion.

From my decidedly non-expert understanding of viral infections, I interpreted this as my body now being fully engaged in the fight, dealing with the infection and clearing out the aftermath. I was essentially monitoring myself like a laboratory experiment, waiting to see what symptom would appear next.

Nothing did. The congestion, however, went absolutely berserk.

For more than a week I had to deal with an almost absurd amount of mucus, to the point where it became less frightening than simply incredibly annoying. And that was it.

My COVID infection had been dealt with. Harshly. And I was grinning from ear to ear.

There was something deeply satisfying about finally confronting the thing I had spent two years hearing about, worrying about and occasionally raging against, only to discover that, at least in my case, it was an anticlimactic opponent.

Whether I had a relatively mild strain, a strong immune response, some contribution from the vaccine from a year earlier, or simply a combination of all of the above, I can’t say. All I know is that my experience was surprisingly uneventful. In fact, the flu I caught during my first work rotation had felt considerably worse.

With the arrival of summer, Mount Royal Park turned into a lush green jungle

That was, of course, only my experience. COVID-19 caused serious illness and death for many people, and the fact that my own infection was mild says nothing about how it affected others. For me, however, the mighty boogeyman had finally shown up. And promptly got KO’d.

Summer Time

By the time May drew to a close, the apartment finally felt like home. I knew my way around the city, had already welcomed friends from Europe, explored more of Montreal than I ever expected during my first few weeks, and even managed to tick off my first bout of COVID. It had been an eventful start to my new chapter in Canada.

Now it was time to trade cafés, concerts and city streets for helicopters, blackflies and drill rigs.

Summer field season was about to begin.

A Place to Belong

A Place to Belong

April 2022. Things were finally looking up.

I had just returned from an adventurous and successful first rotation as an exploration geologist. After everything I had gone through in Saguenay over the previous year, Chicoutimi somehow didn’t seem quite as grim anymore. Three weeks spent in an isolated camp deep in the northern wilderness will make almost any town feel like a bastion of civilization.

More importantly, though, I had finally begun building a promising new life in an exciting new career. Spring was arriving as well. Winter slowly loosened its grip, giving way to milder, sunnier days. The skies filled with the unmistakable honking of returning Canada geese, while patches of green gradually reappeared across the landscape.

Even the intense smell of manure drifting in from the farms to the south couldn’t dampen my mood. It had become one of those quirky seasonal traditions of life in Saguenay. Despite all that, I knew I wouldn’t be staying much longer.

The honkers returned to Saguenay

I had been thinking more and more about moving away from the region. My ideal destination had always been Montreal. I missed the energy of a large city. I missed having countless places to explore, good restaurants to try, concerts and festivals to look forward to, and simply the feeling that there was always something happening somewhere. Montreal also offered a far more international atmosphere, where language barriers mattered much less and meeting people from all over the world came naturally. After several years in relatively quiet Saguenay, that kind of environment appealed to me more than ever.

Now, with my company in the process of establishing a Montreal office, I finally had every reason to make the move. All I needed was the right timing.

A Window of Opportunity

Fortunately, work was about to provide exactly that.

Although exploration geology is often thought of as year-round work, it is, in many ways, still a seasonal industry. Activity rises and falls with both the weather and the practical realities of working in remote northern environments.

Self-cleaning Saguenay duck

The busiest months generally run from early summer through autumn. As winter approaches, prospecting becomes increasingly difficult. Fresh snowfall begins hiding rock outcrops, while frequent low clouds and fog reduce the number of helicopter flights that can safely operate. Since helicopters are essential for reaching many exploration targets, projects gradually wind down as conditions deteriorate. Most field programs finish by October or November before shifting toward office work, planning, and data interpretation until the next season.

The opposite transition also creates a brief pause. For the most part, May was also considered a “dead month”. Melting snow turned many access routes into muddy quagmires, but the main reason for the shutdown was wildlife. Large-scale caribou migrations passed through parts of northern Quebec during the spring, accompanied by Indigenous hunting season. To minimize disturbance, exploration activities in many areas paused until the migration had passed.

That time in spring when the Saguenay fills up with Canada geese

For me, the timing couldn’t have been better. I had two weeks off to research Montreal neighborhoods and apartment listings before heading back north for one more rotation. Then, during the May shutdown, I’d have plenty of time to pack up my life in Chicoutimi, make the move, and settle into my new home before the busy summer exploration season began.

Finding a Home in Montreal

As I began looking into rentals, one problem kept creeping back into my mind. How could I realistically and cost-effectively view a potential apartment before committing to it?

Montreal wasn’t exactly close to Chicoutimi. A quick day trip was possible, but not without a car… which I didn’t have. Otherwise, I would have to spend a night there, adding extra costs and complications to what was supposed to be a simple apartment viewing.

The listings themselves, at least, were plentiful. Prices varied wildly depending on the neighborhood. I was still unfamiliar with the city’s layout, but I kept dreaming of living somewhere near the center. I wanted that almost mythical Manhattan-like lifestyle. Being right in the heart of a big, noisy, vibrant city. Of course, that dream came with a price tag. Anything close to downtown was considerably more expensive.

Eventually, after several days of searching, I kept coming back to one particular listing. It was one of several apartments available in a large residential building in Shaughnessy Village, managed by a major leasing company.

A Virtual Leap of Faith

The building itself wasn’t exactly beautiful from the outside. It was a large concrete structure with a somewhat dated appearance. But according to the photos, the inside had recently been renovated and looked quite comfortable.

More importantly, the location was nearly perfect. It sat on the northwestern edge of downtown Montreal, technically still within the downtown area, ten minutes walk from the Mont Royal Park. The building offered a common roof terrace, small gym and even a rooftop swimming pool. Although the latter turned out to be under renovation indefinitely. The rent, while certainly not cheap, being roughly three times what I had paid in Chicoutimi, was still surprisingly reasonable for the location. With my new income, it was manageable.

Northwestern view from the rooftop terrace

I contacted the property management company to get more information, especially regarding how I could view the apartment without creating a logistical nightmare. One thing led to another, and soon enough I was taking part in a remote apartment tour. A company representative walked through several available units using their phone camera, showing me the apartments and common areas. They were patient, responsive, and willing to answer all my questions. Whenever I wanted to see a specific corner of the apartment or building, they took the time to show me.

Of course, it wasn’t the same as physically visiting the place. There were always things you couldn’t properly judge through a screen. But given my situation, I decided it was good enough. If it turned out not to be the right place, I could always move somewhere else later.

A New Horizon

And just like that, within a matter of days, I went from vague ideas about leaving Saguenay to signing a lease for a one-bedroom apartment in Montreal. My time in Chicoutimi was truly coming to an end.

The last challenge was figuring out the move itself. I had kept in touch with Pedro, one of my old university colleagues. He already knew about my plans to move and when the time came, I asked if he would be willing to help me with the logistics. Thankfully, he was more than happy to help. We found a small window in early May that worked for both of our schedules, while also fitting with the short overlap between my two rental contracts.

I would rent out a cargo van and he volunteered to drive it to Montreal and help me unload. Then he’d drive back to Chicoutimi the same day.

Everything was falling into place. And before I knew it, I was heading back north for my second work rotation.

The Rotation Before the Move

My second rotation came and went much faster than the first.

Unlike my adventurous first work shift, there was no uncertainty this time around. The project had transitioned to using charter flights, so there were no more airport shenanigans. We now flew directly from Montreal to Mirage, with a quick stop in Alma, in the Lac-Saint-Jean region. Since Alma was only about an hour’s drive from Chicoutimi, one of my friends was kind enough to give me a lift. Just like that, my trip to work had become surprisingly hassle-free.

Stepping onto a small private plane sounds more glamorous on paper than it actually was. The cabin ceiling was low, the seats fairly cramped, and because the aircraft were so light, they were much more susceptible to turbulence than the commercial flights I was used to. Still, it was a fascinating way to commute to work. Yet another unexpected perk of the job.

The work, on the other hand, had already begun to feel routine. Most of the people were now familiar faces, with only a few new additions to the crew. The rotation itself was also shorter this time—two weeks instead of the three-week marathon of my first shift. It was a much more comfortable rhythm, allowing everyone to maintain a better balance between work intensity and recovery.

The Lake/River at Mirage during an early summer morning

The geological side of the work was becoming increasingly interesting as well. I was starting to better understand the rocks we were working with and the broader context of the project. There were plenty of exciting observations being made, but as is often the case in mineral exploration, those details will remain confidential.

For now, I was simply enjoying the learning process. Still, my mind was increasingly elsewhere. Between tasks, I found myself thinking less about the next day at camp and more about what was waiting for me in Montreal. A new apartment. A new city. New friends, and an entirely different chapter of my life.

The wilderness had given me a career. Now it was time to build a life around it.

The Move

Soon enough, I was back in Chicoutimi and it was finally time for the big move.

I spent a couple of days packing everything as best I could. The biggest challenge was finding enough containers and boxes. At Pedro’s suggestion, we visited a few supermarkets and large retail stores to ask if they had any spare cardboard boxes they no longer needed. In the end, I only managed to get one—but it was a large one, so it helped quite a bit.

Fortunately, I didn’t own all that much. My furniture consisted mainly of a bed, an awkwardly tiny desk, a desk chair, folding chair, the electronic piano and a lamp. Everything else ended up packed into boxes, duffel bags, backpacks, and whatever other makeshift containers I could find. Yet somehow, it was enough to fill the back of a cargo van.

And just like that, on an early May morning in 2022, I took one last look at the house I had called home for the previous two and a half years. It had been a difficult chapter overall, but one that also gave me plenty of unforgettable memories, friendships, and adventures. I handed back the key, climbed into the moving van, and quietly said goodbye to my life in Saguenay.

Pedro and I spent the drive across southern Quebec reminiscing about our years in Chicoutimi. He would remain there a while longer to finish his PhD, which fortunately hadn’t been affected by the financial turmoil that had derailed my own research. As for me, I couldn’t have been happier with how things had turned out. Leaving academia when I did had been a leap of faith, but considering how things turned out, it had been one of the best decisions I could have made.

My New Home

We reached Montreal early that afternoon. It was one of those perfect spring days. Not too warm, not too cold, with bright sunshine and clear skies.

Downtown Montreal on a hazy day in May

Since I had already signed all the paperwork beforehand, all that remained was to collect my key and finally see my apartment in person. The building actually looked better than it had in the photos. The lobby was modern, bright, and welcoming, while the apartment itself felt surprisingly spacious. In fact, it was so empty that my footsteps echoed through the living room. Furnishing the place quickly moved near the top of my priority list.

One thing immediately stood out, though. The hallways carried the constant aroma of oriental spices and home cooking from the many apartments. It became one of those characteristics of the building that sticks with you whether you want it or not. Personally, I didn’t mind. It was far preferable to cigarette smoke.

However, it also had its share of maintenance issues that became more obvious throughout the coming months. Keeping the apartment clean was never a problem on my end, but occasionally the odd cockroach would wander in from elsewhere in the building. It wasn’t something that happened often, but it was probably the biggest downside of an otherwise pleasant place to live.

Settling in

About an hour later, the van had been unloaded, and my apartment was now covered in boxes, bags, and furniture waiting to find their place. Pedro still had some time before driving back to Chicoutimi, so we decided to make a quick trip to IKEA.

There was only one problem. The store was south of the Island of Montreal, and we had chosen to leave right in the middle of afternoon rush hour… precisely when everyone else was trying to get off the island after work. Fortunately, I had Pedro behind the wheel.

Having learned to drive in Rio de Janeiro, Montreal traffic hardly seemed intimidating to him. After a series of impressively bold lane changes, and one particularly memorable maneuver that briefly had our cargo van occupying far more of Sherbrooke Street than it probably should have, we escaped the worst of the congestion and eventually made it to IKEA.

A few hours, several flat-packed boxes, and a couple of IKEA hot dogs later, we returned to my apartment with the beginnings of a proper home. I still hadn’t found the right dining table or couch, but that could wait. Little by little, the apartment would come together.

My apartment eventually took its final shape later that month

Pedro soon began the long drive back to Chicoutimi, while I stayed behind and slowly started unpacking my belongings. As I stood there, surrounded by half-opened boxes, looking around at my new home, it was the first time in years that I truly felt like I was in a place where I could belong. A place where I could slowly grow roots and build something more permanent for a change.

The Start of Something New

The Start of Something New

On a regular cold day in early February 2022, I received my graduation papers from UQAC after a brutal year of struggling against an ever-growing series of challenges and absurdities. I was now a double Master of Geology… because of the… two Master’s degrees. More importantly, I could finally apply for a Post-Graduation Work Permit in Canada.

As with most administrative procedures, the process would take a few months. Fortunately, submitting the application was enough to grant me the right to work while my permit was being processed. I wasted no time and immediately began searching for employment.

The Job Hunt Begins

Sadly, due to the pandemic and repeated lockdowns, my professional network remained rather limited. However, I had two major leads to pursue.

The first came through Alexandre. A friend of his from France had already spent some time working in mineral exploration and mentioned a company that he spoke highly of. Given my previous experiences working in Romania, I already knew how important a healthy work environment was for both motivation and sanity. Alexandre put us in touch through Facebook, and before long I had an email address to which I could send my application.

My second lead came through my supervisor and professor at UQAM. Over the years, I had gathered that he was exceptionally well connected not only within academic circles but also throughout the mining and exploration industry. I reached out to him for guidance and quickly received a reply. Before long, he suggested a Quebec-based exploration company operating out of Montreal that happened to be hiring.

Ice breaks up on the Saguenay

Before continuing, I should mention a few important points regarding the way I will write about this period of my life. I will be intentionally omitting company names throughout the remainder of this story. Likewise, the names of colleagues and other individuals involved will be changed or omitted to respect their privacy. Some details may also be kept intentionally vague where appropriate. The events and experiences themselves are real, but protecting the privacy of the people involved is more important than absolute documentary precision.

First Interview

The first company to reply was the one suggested by my former supervisor. The director himself responded with interest in my resume and invited me to a remote interview a few days later. The interview went well. I played my usual cards: motivation, ambition, and a willingness to learn. When asked where I saw myself in five or ten years, I aimed high. He seemed to appreciate that.

The only potential drawback was, once again, the French language. Speaking French was not a strict requirement for the position, but it certainly would have been helpful considering most of the team were francophones. However, he assured me that everyone also spoke English and that the work environment was fairly bilingual. Looking back, it would probably have been a good place to continue improving my French.

A day or so after the interview, I received positive feedback and a promise that a contract offer would arrive the following week. This was on a Thursday.

That same day, I received an email from the other company inviting me to a remote interview on Friday. Even though I already seemed to have a job offer within reach, I accepted. At the very least, I was curious to learn more about them.

Second Interview

The following day, I found myself speaking with one of the company’s young managers. The contrast was immediately noticeable. Whereas the first interview had been conducted by a formal senior director, this one felt much more relaxed and energetic.

We ended up having a great conversation. He explained that the company was headquartered in Western Canada and was in the process of opening a new office in Montreal. That immediately caught my attention. Western company meant that English was the primary work language. Plus I was already dreaming about moving to Montreal.

The company itself was also in a different stage of development. Rather than operating around a long-established project area, they were building a new team, pursuing multiple exploration projects, and expanding their presence in Quebec. It was an interesting comparison between two very different opportunities.

What surprised me most was what seemed to interest them about my application. I had assumed that my lack of direct exploration experience would be the main focus. Instead, they appeared genuinely interested in my diverse work background. While none of it was directly related to mineral exploration, they seemed to value adaptability and the ability to learn quickly in unfamiliar situations.

The manager explained that they intended to take my previous work experience into account and place me slightly above the entry-level junior position.

Two Offers on the Table

Toward the end of our conversation, I explained that another company was already preparing an offer and that I expected to receive it early the following week. If they were seriously interested in bringing me on board, I would need an answer fairly quickly.

He assured me he would discuss the matter with his colleague and get back to me as soon as possible. He was not exaggerating. Only a few hours later, I received another email containing a contract offer. Their response time was lightning fast and left quite an impression.

I was also somewhat taken aback by the situation itself. Barely two weeks after graduating from UQAC, I found myself considering two attractive offers for exploration geologist positions.

The difference between the Canadian and European job markets felt almost surreal. Of course, timing played a role as well. The mining and exploration industry is notoriously cyclical, with periods of expansion followed by inevitable slowdowns. In early 2022, the market was clearly in one of its stronger phases, and job seekers generally found themselves in a favorable position.

For someone who had spent the previous year navigating the seven circles of academic hell, it was an exhilarating feeling. More than anything, it felt as though all the effort, frustration, and persistence of the previous year were finally producing results.

It also reinforced my decision to step away from academia rather than continue pursuing a PhD under increasingly uncertain circumstances. For the first time in quite a while, I felt genuinely optimistic about the road ahead.

Decision Time

I waited until Monday to receive the promised offer from the first company. In the meantime, I enthusiastically consulted friends and family, discussing the strengths and weaknesses of each opportunity. When the second offer arrived as promised, I quickly discovered that the decision would be more difficult than I had anticipated.

The compensation structures alone made comparisons challenging. One company offered hourly pay, while the other proposed an annual salary supplemented by various bonuses, including additional compensation for extended periods spent in the field. Estimating what either position might ultimately pay required plenty of assumptions and more than a few calculations.

Still, there was another factor at work. I have to admit that my instincts were quietly nudging me in one particular direction. Whether this was simply my subconscious recognizing details that I had not yet consciously processed, I cannot say. What I do know is that the prospect of joining a young team in the process of building something new felt incredibly appealing.

They spoke about multiple projects, opportunities across different regions, and the possibility of working with a variety of teams and clients. As someone just beginning a career in the industry, that breadth of experience seemed invaluable.

In the end, that became the deciding factor. When I politely declined the first company’s offer, the main reason I provided was simple: I felt the second opportunity would expose me to a wider range of projects and learning experiences at the very start of my career.

What Does an Exploration Geologist Actually Do?

The job of an exploration geologist is a rather adventurous one. It requires spending much of the year working in remote regions—far from major cities, often far from even the smallest settlements, and sometimes seemingly far from everything.

So what exactly do we do out there in the wilderness? In simple terms, we search for mineral resources. Gold, copper, nickel, graphite, rare earth elements… you name it. These are the raw materials that eventually find their way into everything from everyday household items to smartphones, medical equipment, renewable energy technologies, and countless other products that modern society depends on.

A sulfide-rich rock sample that I cut into a weird monolithic shape

Exploration geologists are at the very beginning of that journey. It often starts with boots on the ground. We hike through forests, mountains, and tundra searching for exposed rock outcrops that might tell us something interesting about the geology below. Once promising rocks are found, they are mapped, carefully described, and sampled. Those samples are later analysed to determine their chemical composition and whether they contain economically interesting minerals.

If the initial results look promising, the project moves into more advanced stages of exploration. This is where drilling comes into play.

The Exploration Drilling Stage

Drill holes are carefully planned to intersect the target rock formation at different angles and depths. Each core recovered from underground provides another piece of the geological puzzle, allowing geologists to gradually build a three-dimensional model of what lies beneath the surface.

Of course, finding minerals is only half the battle. The real question is whether enough of them exist, in the right concentrations and under the right conditions, to justify the enormous cost of developing a mine. Most exploration projects never reach that stage. Only a small fraction eventually become producing mines.

Because of this, early-stage exploration is also the riskiest phase for investors. The odds of discovering an economically viable deposit are relatively low, but if a project does prove successful, the rewards can be substantial.

That is also why exploration data is treated as commercially sensitive. Geological interpretations, sampling results, drilling information, and future plans are valuable pieces of information. For that reason, I will deliberately avoid discussing operational details, specific projects, or exploration results throughout these stories.

Technicalities aside, however… It is one of the most adventurous jobs I have ever had.

Heading North

The days flew by, and before I knew it I was boarding a flight to Montreal in transit towards my very first work rotation. The following day, I was booked on a commercial flight to Radisson, a remote town in the James Bay region of northern Quebec that serves as a gateway to many exploration projects in the Canadian north.

It felt good being up in the air and traveling again, even if it was part of work

Before that, however, I had half a day to spend in Montreal. The manager I had spoken to during my interview invited me out for a drink with him and a few of my new colleagues. At that point, there wasn’t technically an office yet. Everyone was still working remotely, so this was the perfect opportunity to meet some of the people I would soon be working alongside.

After our relaxed social gathering, I returned to the hotel for a good night’s sleep. It was time to start preparing for early mornings, long working days, and three weeks filled with new experiences and challenges. The following morning, I arrived at the airport ready to check in for my flight north. I was about to head somewhere that relatively few people ever visit: Canada’s true north, in the middle of winter.

Airport Shenanigans

At the manager’s recommendation, I had bought a pair of enormous steel-toed winter boots that looked like they belonged to a science-fiction power armor suit. Despite their size, they were surprisingly light thanks to their composite construction. Graceful, however, they were not. I was incredibly excited about what lay ahead.

Then the Air Inuit employee asked me a simple question. “Do you have your PCR test?” For those who have thankfully forgotten, PCR tests were one of the COVID-19 requirements still floating around at the time. Nobody had mentioned anything about needing one. She asked what kind of work I was travelling north for. “Geologist in Mineral Exploration” I replied. Judging by her expression, that answer didn’t really help. She simply responded that everyone travelling north needed a PCR test. And just like that… the troubles began.

I immediately called one of the company managers and explained the situation. He was just as surprised as I was. Up until then, none of their employees had needed PCR tests for this type of travel. We quickly discussed our options. One possibility was finding a testing center in Montreal, keeping me there for an extra day, and trying again on the following morning’s flight. Then he asked whether testing might be available at the airport itself.

While he rushed off to deal with the logistical headache this situation had suddenly created, I hurried off to investigate my options.

COVID Chaos

I scrambled to the airport information desk hoping to find out whether I could still get tested. I had already accepted that I would almost certainly miss my scheduled flight, but there was another one leaving a few hours later that I might still be able to catch.

After some waiting, I ended up speaking with a different employee and had to explain the entire situation all over again. By this point, I was becoming both anxious and increasingly frustrated. They listened carefully before asking once more: “So… what exactly do you work again?” “I’m a Geologist,” I replied again, before adding, “…in the mining sector.”

That finally clicked. They asked whether I would be working directly with Air Inuit personnel or with local First Nations communities. “No” I said. “Oh… then you don’t need a PCR test” he replied.

…What? After all that?

That was peak COVID bureaucracy. Rules changed constantly, different people interpreted them differently, and by early 2022 it felt like just about everyone was fed up with the whole situation.

Finally, I was allowed through to the check-in counter. I immediately phoned the manager to let him know the good news. His reply? “…Ah, crap. I just cancelled your ticket.”

Oof. I stayed on the phone with him while asking the airline staff whether it was still possible to buy another ticket. Thankfully, it was. I even offered to pay for it myself just to simplify matters, knowing the company could reimburse me later. Meanwhile, the manager rushed off once again to let everyone at the project know that, after all, I was actually coming.

The Domino Effect

What I didn’t discover until I reached the project was just how many moving parts my little airport adventure had set into motion.

Radisson was still over 400 kilometres from camp, so someone had to drive out to meet every incoming flight. By the time news reached camp that I supposedly wasn’t arriving that day, the driver—let’s call him Bob—had already left.

Unable to reach him by radio or any other means, the team made the decision to send the helicopter after him to signal that he should turn around instead of wasting an entire day’s drive. However, when it turned out that I was, in fact, still coming after all, another message had to be rushed through telling everyone to call the helicopter back.

Somewhere in the frozen north of Quebec

As funny as the story is now, it also illustrates how quickly small logistical changes can snowball into much bigger ones when you’re operating hundreds of kilometers from the nearest town. Every last-minute adjustment costs time and money, especially when helicopters become involved.

Fortunately, the helicopter hadn’t taken off yet, and the replacement airline ticket ended up costing exactly the same as the original one. In the end, no real harm was done. Just a healthy dose of unnecessary stress before my first official day on the job.

Looking back, it was a rather fitting introduction to life in mineral exploration. In remote field operations, even the smallest hiccup can ripple through an entire chain of carefully coordinated logistics. As I would discover, adapting to the unexpected was simply part of the job.

After the Storm, Before the Next Horizon

After the Storm, Before the Next Horizon

Following months of intense work under mounting pressure, an eerie stillness settled over my life. The article had been submitted. The thesis had been submitted. After spending so long managing one disaster after another, trying to keep an increasingly unstable structure from collapsing around me, there was suddenly very little left to do.

Now came the waiting. It would still take over a month before the reviews returned and I would have to address any final comments, corrections, or suggestions. But until then, for the first time in what felt like forever, I could finally relax. Or at least attempt to.

After the Storm

With only a few weeks of autumn remaining, Taylor and I returned to the Saguenay Fjord National Park for one final late-season hike. I must admit, few things compare to the vibrant forests of Canadian autumn. Vast hills and mountains disappeared beneath a sea of yellow, scattered with patches of deep red and lingering green. Beneath the clear blue sky, the Saguenay River cut through the landscape like a winding ribbon.

Walking straight into autumn’s golden embrace

The trip became part of a slow readjustment back toward normal life. A life where I was no longer constantly on edge, managing crisis after crisis while trying to hold together a life that increasingly felt like it was coming apart. I had to relearn how to disconnect. How to exist without immediately anticipating the next catastrophe. Though some part of me still expected another disaster to emerge at any moment.

The following month of November was not entirely uneventful either. Our small research group was scheduled to attend the first conference held in person since the beginning of the Covid crisis. Well… partially in person. It was technically a hybrid conference, and remote participation was still strongly encouraged.

After the months I had survived, reaching the top of those cliffs in Saguenay felt like climbing on top of the world

But honestly, we simply wanted to escape Chicoutimi for a while. We wanted to see other places again. Other people. Signs that the wider world still existed beyond lockdowns, laboratories, and endless administrative nightmares.

Glimpses of a Different Life

The GAC-MAC conference was being held in London. London, Ontario. Not the capital of the United Kingdom. North American city names and their complete lack of originality… am I right?

Getting there required an entire day of driving, but nothing our two experienced and enthusiastic drivers, Taylor and Alexandre, could not handle. Two major things from that journey stayed with me vividly. The first was Montreal. The second was Highway 401 near Toronto.

Reaching for whatever’s left of summer

Despite having lived in Quebec for over two years by that point, I still had never properly visited Montreal. I had only briefly passed through its airport during my arrivals back in 2019. Alexandre had visited before and spoke highly of it, despite not being particularly fond of large cities himself. Compared to Chicoutimi, however, Montreal represented something entirely different. Movement. Opportunity. Life.

Even just passing through the northern parts of the city left a surprisingly strong impression on me. And this wasn’t even the glamorous side of Montreal. Yet it was enough. The dense residential neighborhoods, the characteristic duplexes of the old French quarters, the busy streets, the sheer feeling of urban energy… all of it immediately resonated with me. After years spent in what increasingly felt like an isolated academic outpost, the city felt alive in a way I had almost forgotten was possible.

For the first time in a long while, I could clearly envision a future beyond Saguenay. All I needed to do now was graduate and secure a flexible job that would allow me to move there.

Canada’s iconic maple leaf showing off in full Quebec autumn glory

After Montreal came Toronto. Or more specifically, the legendary Highway 401. The city itself barely registered in my memory compared to the sheer insanity of that highway system. Endless lanes. Interwoven overpasses and underpasses. Traffic moving at speeds that felt borderline absurd. The only apparent rule of the 401 was momentum. It looked terrifying.

This was one place I never wanted to drive myself. Taylor, of course, loved it. She had grown up driving everywhere and handled the chaos with complete confidence. I, meanwhile, had always considered myself far more of a proud pedestrian than an enthusiastic driver. But Canada is vast, and my legs alone were never going to carry me very far across it.

Eventually, after a very long day on the road, we finally passed through Toronto and arrived in London.

A Breath of Normalcy

London itself seemed like a fairly modest mid-sized city. Clearly larger and livelier than Chicoutimi, though nothing particularly spectacular. The university campus, however, impressed me immediately. Especially the old stone tower building rising above the grounds. It gave the place a strangely classical atmosphere, like a miniature version of Cambridge or something along those lines.

Heading to Western University in the late afternoon

We had several days to spend there attending the usual conference activities. Presentations, networking, poster sessions, and awkward academic small talk. In my case, I presented a poster based on the research work that had consumed most of the previous year of my life. Oddly enough, it felt good. Rewarding even.

After so much isolation, uncertainty, and endless work, simply being surrounded by other people again felt refreshing. Conversations flowed naturally across the conference floor as students and researchers drifted between presentations. And since this was Ontario, everything suddenly became much simpler for me linguistically as well. No constant anxiety over French. Just smooth communication.

The Clocktower at Western

It was a breath of fresh air. Well… a masked breath of fresh air. But still. You get the idea.

The London Evenings

Once conference hours ended, I insisted we actually go out and do things rather than retreat straight back to the hotel each evening. Partly because I genuinely wanted to enjoy the trip, but also because I was trying to reclaim some semblance of normal life after the psychological trench warfare of the previous months.

The first evening, we settled on bowling. Reaching the venue required a surprisingly long walk across the city, but it was worth it. A couple of drinks, some terrible bowling technique, and several rounds of friendly competition turned out to be exactly the kind of normal social interaction I had been missing for far too long.

Masked bowling bandits in London, ON

The following evening, I convinced Alexandre to come watch Dune, which was still playing in cinemas at the time. The theater was almost completely empty. Naturally, Alexandre and I immediately claimed the best seats directly in the center of the room while the few other visitors scattered themselves far apart across the giant theater. The reclining VIP seats were absurdly comfortable. It honestly felt like we had rented out a private cinema for ourselves. The movie itself was excellent too.

A Worthwhile Detour

Once the conference concluded, the original plan was to drive straight back to Chicoutimi. But we also wanted to take advantage of the rare opportunity to do some sightseeing. And what better destination than one of Canada’s most famous landmarks? Niagara Falls was relatively close after all. Just a “small detour” on the drive back toward Quebec.

We left early in the morning and headed directly toward the falls. Fortunately, the weather could not have been better. Sunny, warm, and clear despite it already being November. After spending so much time in northern Quebec, I think I had genuinely forgotten what a normal temperate autumn was supposed to feel like.

Welcome to the town of Niagara Falls — Canada’s Vegas

The town of Niagara Falls itself felt hilariously North American for lack of a better description. The entire place seemed built around tourism, entertainment, and consumerism. Bright attractions, themed restaurants, oversized signs, casinos, souvenir shops — a miniature Las Vegas wrapped around one of the world’s great natural wonders. Many places were closed for the off-season, but the atmosphere remained unmistakable.

Niagara Falls

Then we finally reached the river valley itself. A massive bridge stretched across the gorge toward the United States. I could practically smell the freedom blowing in from the south.

I have no words for this one…

Parking near the falls, however, was an entirely different battle. After circling around for a while, we finally managed to secure a spot with an aggressively strict timer attached to it. Taylor warned us that parking enforcement here apparently operated with military precision and that our truck would probably be towed into another dimension if we overstayed by even a few minutes.

Eventually, though, we reached the falls themselves. And honestly… they really were magnificent.

It’s crazy how much can change within a short time span

Standing there overlooking that immense wall of roaring water, it became difficult not to reflect on how absurd the previous months had been. Barely weeks earlier, I had been trapped inside a psychological pressure cooker, unable to think beyond the next deadline, the next administrative obstacle, the next potential disaster.

And now? Now I was standing at Niagara Falls with friends and colleagues beneath clear autumn skies, feeling hopeful about the future again. The entire London trip had started to feel less like a conference and more like a strangely well-earned vacation. A reward at the very end of survival.

Weathered and worn by time, but still facing the falls with quiet strength

Finally, it was time to return home. Home. Or at least the temporary home that Chicoutimi still remained for a little while longer.

Running on Fumes

Sometime in early December, I finally received my thesis back from review. It was time for the last round of revisions. There was just one problem. I was mentally finished. Completely disconnected from the entire process.

The intense months leading up to submission had drained whatever reserves of motivation I still possessed, and the quieter weeks afterward had extinguished the rest. The comments themselves were not disastrous. Numerous, yes, but manageable. Still, the moment I opened the document and saw another avalanche of red text and corrections splattered across the pages, I felt physically nauseous.

No more revision please…

I simply could not stand looking at that thesis anymore. Unfortunately, I had no choice. The corrections still needed to be completed before the winter break so the final version could be resubmitted on time. So once again, I dragged myself back into revision mode.

Some of the funniest comments involved criticisms of the French language itself. I honestly had no idea whether the French in the document was good, bad, or somewhere in between. I had translated large portions using software before handing them off to Lucie for corrections and improvements. So from my perspective, the reviewer was essentially criticizing my French supervisor’s French.

I found this hilarious.

One More Lockdown

Despite my lack of enthusiasm, I eventually slogged my way through the revisions and reached a satisfactory final version. What fascinated me in hindsight was how much more difficult this comparatively minor workload felt psychologically than the brutal months preceding it. Earlier in the year, I had survived near-impossible pressure through sheer momentum. Now that momentum was gone. I had simply run out of steam.

A snowy Monts-Valin north of Saguenay

After a final round of frustrating back-and-forth exchanges with the reviewer, the revised thesis was finally accepted. At that point, everything remaining was purely administrative. Technically speaking, I had graduated.

The entire process, however, had resurfaced enough lingering frustration that I instinctively decided to head over to the gym afterward to burn it out physically one last time. Except this time, the gym doors were locked. Another apology notice had been taped to the entrance announcing renewed lockdown restrictions. I just stood there cursing to myself. When was this shit ever going to end?

What Else Indeed…

Around that same time, Lucie invited all of us from her research group over to her place in Jonquière for Christmas dinner. Our colleague Nesrine had recently obtained both her Canadian driver’s license and her first car, so she offered to drive Alexandre and me there for the evening. Since she was still fairly inexperienced behind the wheel, Alexandre sat in the front seat to help navigate while I sat in the back.

I had prepared my staple Greek moussaka to bring along for dinner, though emotionally I was in an absolutely miserable mood. The renewed lockdown had somehow managed to feel like the perfect final insult from 2021. I had no holiday spirit left whatsoever. Honestly, I felt emotionally exhausted to the point of emptiness.

What else could this ridiculous year possibly throw at us?

As we approached the final intersection near Lucie’s place, I heard Alexandre calmly tell Nesrine to turn left. Without hesitation, the car immediately began rolling into the intersection. Now, as I have admitted multiple times throughout this blog series, I am hardly some superior driver myself. Yet even from the back seat, my instinct immediately made me glance forward toward oncoming traffic. And there was definitely traffic coming.

I reacted with the most bizarrely calm and almost amused tone imaginable, slowly muttering “Waaatch ooout…”, intentionally dragging out the words as though I were already watching the inevitable unfold in slow motion. A fraction of a second later, Alexandre’s eyes snapped forward and he shouted: “Attention!”… but it was too late.

A violent bang erupted through the cabin followed immediately by an immense jolt. And all I did was sigh. Not shock, nor fear… not even surprise. Just pure exhausted disbelief at the seemingly endless stream of absurdity that had become 2021.

Collision Day

Our vehicle spun sideways across the street and came to rest nearly perpendicular to the road. The windshield cracked. The airbags had exploded outward and were now plastered awkwardly against the faces of the two motionless figures sitting in front of me. My own back ached sharply from the force of the seatbelt, but otherwise I was completely fine. The seatbelt prevented me from smashing my head directly into the seat ahead.

What surprised me most, strangely enough, was the dust. The entire cabin was filled with it. I genuinely wondered where all this dust had suddenly come from — poor housekeeping? I later realized it was residue from the airbags deploying. Apparently that was normal. The more you know.

This car had seen better days

With a mixture of mild irritation and dark humor, I groaned: “Anyone else still alive?” A few seconds later, both Alexandre and Nesrine began moving and responding. Thankfully, neither of them appeared seriously injured. Nesrine had a bloodied lip or nose, while Alexandre described feeling hazy and disoriented afterward for several days. Looking back, we later suspected he may have suffered a mild concussion from the airbag impact, though he never actually got himself checked.

And then my priorities immediately shifted toward something far more important. The moussaka. I rushed to check whether it had survived the collision. Thankfully, it had. In fact, it tasted excellent later that evening. I would eventually joke that the secret ingredient had been a violent collision to properly mix the layers together.

Looking back, my reaction to the accident was genuinely strange. The adrenaline certainly kicked in hard, but instead of fear, I mostly felt detached amusement mixed with exhaustion. It was almost as though my brain had simply become too burnt out to process yet another disaster normally.

Eventually, emergency services arrived. The vehicles were moved aside, insurance information was exchanged, and Nesrine was offered transportation to the hospital as a precaution. And then, somehow, Alexandre and I continued onward to Lucie’s Christmas dinner. What a story we had to tell upon arrival.

From that point onward, December 24th unofficially became known between Alexandre and me as: Collision Day.

Diverging Paths

For the final weeks of the year, I hunkered down in my apartment. After the events of Collision Day, it genuinely felt as though that year, or perhaps that place itself, had it in for us. Me, Alexandre, or both. I didn’t feel like tempting fate any further and having a piano or an anvil dropped on my head while walking outside.

As 2021 came to a close, it brought with it the end of another chapter of my life. The end of my academic chapter. Not the finale I had envisioned when I left for Canada, but rather an unfortunate ending forced by unforeseen and extreme circumstances. Whatever the future held, 2022 was going to usher in major changes for both Alexandre and myself, that much was certain. This was where our shared path finally diverged for good.

My balcony overflowing with snow during peak winter

In January, Alexandre was making his final preparations to leave Canada and return to France. He planned to ship most of his furniture and belongings via container, which meant transporting everything to a shipping company in Montreal. I had little else to do during that period, so I offered to help. Not just with loading the rental vehicle, but by accompanying him on the long round-trip drives as well.

Thus began our final Canadian adventure together. The frozen winter road trips to and from Montreal.

A Slippery Slope

Alexandre had hoped to rent a decent-sized van, but the best vehicle the rental company could offer him at the time was a Dodge Durango SUV. A great car no doubt, but not nearly spacious enough to fit everything. We packed it as tightly as possible, though it quickly became obvious he would need to make the trip twice.

He didn’t really expect me to offer to tag along the first time, let alone the second. But as I told him, it wasn’t like I had anything better to do. Besides, I could always use the change of scenery. So off we drove toward Montreal on a chilly winter morning. Endless conversation and music filled the hours. In many ways, the trip felt like a quiet homage to our summer road adventures through northern Quebec over a year earlier.

The Saguenay once again froze over completely

The roads remained relatively clear until we entered the Laurentides Wildlife Reserve. There, fresh snowstorms and frost had reclaimed sections of the highway. Alexandre occasionally remarked that parts of the road felt slippery, though he also commented on how stable the SUV handled despite the conditions. I barely noticed anything myself. It was the sort of subtle loss of traction only the driver paying close attention would detect. Then came the descent.

We were driving down a long, steeper stretch of highway when the car suddenly began slipping. Apparently, my guy had been going a little too fast for the icy conditions. Under normal circumstances it would have been fine, but this time the road had other ideas. I felt it immediately.

The vehicle started swerving violently. Alexandre instinctively tried to reduce speed, but that only made things worse. The SUV fishtailed across the highway — ninety degrees right, one eighty back left, then fully spinning around. Fortunately, there were no other cars nearby, giving us two entire lanes to skid across uncontested.

For what felt like the longest ten seconds of my life, we became passengers inside a giant metal hockey puck. Eventually, the vehicle came to a stop with its rear corner buried in a snowbank.

A semi-truck driver who had witnessed the entire spectacle pulled over to check if we were alright. We were fine. Just another absurd little joyride added to our ever-growing list of near-disasters. Even the SUV survived mostly unscathed. The bumper had partially popped loose, but we easily snapped it back into place. The soft snow and reduced speed from all the swerving had spared us from anything worse.

My Second Glimpse of Montreal

From that moment onward, Alexandre stuck rigidly to the speed limit and remained hyper-alert for any additional icy sections. Eventually, we reached Montreal and unloaded everything in good time. Afterward, we even took a short drive around parts of the city. Alexandre wanted to show me some of the nicer neighborhoods around Mount Royal Park.

Unfortunately, by then it was already dark outside, so I couldn’t see much beyond glowing city lights and silhouettes of buildings. Yet even that was enough to make me smile while fantasizing about potentially living in this vibrant city one day.

When we were finally ready to head back, I pulled out my phone to help navigate through Montreal traffic. The city’s road network was chaotic compared to anything we were used to. Odd intersections, aggressive drivers, questionable lane changes — the full metropolitan experience.

A dream of things to come…

The navigation app selected a southern route out of the city instead of the northern approach we had used earlier. We followed along while I remained glued to the screen. At some point, we began slowly climbing what felt like an endless elevated traffic ramp. I paid little attention at first until I suddenly realized we were now higher than many of the surrounding buildings. That was when I finally looked up and thought: Where the hell are we going? The high heavens?

An unfamiliar series of overhead electric signs displaying red crosses and green arrows stretched out above the lanes. Everything looked strange and surreal in the darkness. Then, slowly, the massive metal framework surrounding us finally became visible. We were crossing the Jacques Cartier Bridge over the Saint Laurent River.

I have to admit, that was one hell of a reveal. The rest of the drive back unfolded uneventfully.

Epilogue

Two days later, we were packing again. This time the rental company gave Alexandre a minivan instead of an SUV. Slightly more spacious, though noticeably less stable on winter roads. At least we managed to fit the remaining belongings inside.

No more dramatic slides this time around. After our previous incident, Alexandre no longer trusted the roads, the weather, or the car for that matter. He drove cautiously the entire way. Another long, tiring drive to Montreal followed. By then we were mostly recycling old conversation topics. The whole trip felt like the epilogue to our shared story.

Because of his more cautious driving pace, we ended up stuck behind a large truck for a significant portion of the highway. The constant spray of dirt and slush onto the windshield, combined with freezing temperatures, forced Alexandre to use most of the windshield washer fluid before we even reached Montreal.

This time we wasted no extra hours sightseeing after unloading. He was exhausted and still had another long drive to Montreal Airport waiting for him the following day.

One Last Near Miss

Before leaving Montreal, we desperately needed to refill the windshield washer fluid. However, Alexandre wanted to first escape the heavier city traffic before stopping. So we continued onward while I searched for nearby gas stations along the route out of town.

The washer fluid was nearly depleted, and the dirty highway conditions demanded constant use. At one point, Alexandre casually said: “Man… it’s getting pretty bad.” I lifted my eyes from the phone screen and was greeted by a completely opaque windshield covered in grime. Holy shit.

You could barely see anything anymore, and we were still barreling down the highway at roughly eighty kilometers per hour surrounded by traffic. Alexandre nervously laughed and claimed he could “still sort of see through the grains.”

Okay. This was getting ridiculous. We immediately took the next exit and slowly navigated our way toward the nearest service station. Another comical disaster narrowly avoided.

Parting Ways

The rest of the return trip became a bit of a grind. The weather worsened considerably and near Quebec City we drove straight into an ice storm that coated the roads with fresh black ice.

Conditions improved slightly once we re-entered the Laurentides Wildlife Reserve where colder temperatures meant more snow and less ice. Even so, Alexandre drove slowly and cautiously the entire remaining distance, despite knowing it meant arriving late at night and barely sleeping before his departure the next morning.

I still remember fragments of our final stop together at a convenience store where he bought a few remaining travel essentials. The poor guy looked completely exhausted. Mentally and physically drained. I embraced him farewell and wished him the best. Most importantly, I wished for him not to get himself killed during this final push.

Brothers from different mothers… fathers… and places… but still brothers

After everything we had endured together, I hoped we would meet again someday. I didn’t know when. I didn’t know where. But for the kind of friendship forged through mutual struggle and shared hardship, I was certain this would not be the last time we saw each other.

Rolling Credits

After Alexandre’s departure, things became even quieter for me.

Nothing more to do at the university. No one left to complain with about life in Saguenay. No immediate pressure, nor any concrete adventure waiting ahead. Just the quiet credits rolling at the end of a long, chaotic film.

If I were to choose a post-credit scene, it would probably be the day I finally received my MSc diploma from UQAC sometime in early February.

No graduation party with hats like after my Bachelor’s degree. No emotional celebration between friends, colleagues, and professors like when I graduated from my first Master’s in Copenhagen. Just a quiet piece of paper delivered remotely. This was the very piece of paper I had fought tooth and nail for throughout the previous year. Seemingly insignificant, yet absolutely crucial for what needed to come next.

I wasted no time. The moment my graduation documents arrived, I immediately submitted my application for a post-graduation work permit to the Canadian government. It was time to change course and begin the next major chapter of my life in this vast country.

The ultimate goal remained unchanged: to find stability.

To find a place I could finally, permanently call… home.

Cutting Through the Last Months of 2020: Rocks, Rules, and Routine

Cutting Through the Last Months of 2020: Rocks, Rules, and Routine

I returned to Chicoutimi and my student life fully revitalized after four weeks of field work in the north. Revitalized in the sense of normalcy within the bleak year of 2020. The harsh lockdowns of the previous months had drained my willpower, but that stretch in the field rekindled something. A sense of momentum. Of purpose.

On a late-summer’s day, somewhere in Chicoutimi

September had arrived and the academic year had begun. The university was slightly more open now. Masks and distancing were still in place, but at least there were people in the halls again. Some recreational spaces reopened too, including the gym I had signed up for. Slowly, it felt like we were climbing out of the lockdown haze.

Back to the grind

With the amount of material Alexandre and I brought back, we had months of work ahead. All those rock samples needed processing. Cutting them down, preparing them for thin sections, and eventually for geochemical analysis.

We both had prior lab experience and felt confident going in. The lab manager walked us through the equipment. A couple of fixed rock saws, a discussion about blades. Alexandre asked David, the lab manager, for the best blades since our samples were granitic, quartz-rich, and extremely hard.

Coming back from the field with rock samples of different sizes

David gave us the “student treatment.” He didn’t trust us with the sharper blades and handed us the smoother ones instead, telling us to just take more time. Not a great start.

After a single day it became obvious those “safe” blades weren’t going to cut it. Literally. We were standing there for hours, barely making progress. Eventually David gave in, and from the next day on we were allowed to use the proper blades.

That solved one problem, but another quickly appeared. Even with the right blades, the machines kept shutting down under strain. David explained the fix involved flipping a breaker switch in an electrical box, but according to protocol, he was supposed to call an electrician to do it.

For us, this was next level. Calling an electrician just to flip a switch? How did anything get done? It was the complete opposite of the fix-it-yourself mentality we grew up with in Europe.

Outlaws in the lab

The work settled into a routine. Daily sessions of rock cutting. Alexandre had far more to process than I did, seventeen buckets compared to my five, so I helped where I could.

The breaker issue quickly became unbearable. It would trip multiple times a day, and David wasn’t always around. Sometimes we’d be stuck waiting hours just to continue working. Then came the day he wasn’t there at all.

The bridge to nowhere across nothing in northern Chicoutimi

Within the first hour, everything shut down again. That was it. Alexandre had had enough. The electrical box wasn’t locked, just braced. He opened it, flipped the switch, and closed it back up. We were back in business. Outlaws at work. And we got a lot done that day. No more waiting. No more interruptions. Just progress.

By late afternoon we were exhausted but satisfied. Then I noticed something that instantly killed the mood. A small ocean had formed in the lab. All the water from the saws hadn’t been draining properly. It was pooling in the center of the room and slowly creeping toward David’s office.

We were screwed.

The Great Flood scandal

The design of the room made no sense. The lowest point was where the water pooled, while the drainage grates sat slightly higher. It was absurd.

So we grabbed the wide navy brooms and started pushing the water uphill toward the drains. It took over an hour. By the end, most of it was gone, but the floor was still wet and muddy. We were completely drained ourselves, so we decided to leave it overnight and come back early to finish.

The slabs I ended up with after cutting the rocks, prior to sending them off for thin sectioning

The next morning was a disaster. David was furious. He wanted to ban us from the lab. Alexandre had already taken the initial hit before I arrived, and Lucie was there trying to mediate. We explained the drainage issue and what had happened, but there was another problem. He had found out about the breaker.

Illegal. Catastrophic. Students flipping a switch. Endangering everyone. You get the idea.

Lucie was more understanding. She had grown up in France and shared our mindset. Later she even told us she once got scolded for changing a light bulb herself instead of calling an electrician. Canada… what the hell?

Yes, it sounds ranty. But that’s exactly how it felt. The whole situation was absurd. We were put in time-out. Not for long though.

Once David ran the saws himself, he quickly realized the drains were clogged. That was the real cause of the flooding. Not us. We were eventually pardoned, with one condition: stay away from the electrical box.

Fair enough. Luckily, thanks to our “outlaw day,” we could afford to slow things down.

Better days

By October we were finally done cutting. The samples were sent off, and the next phase began. This was my favorite part.

Thin sections opened up an entirely new world. What looked simple in hand sample became incredibly complex under the microscope. Beyond quartz, feldspar, and amphibole, there were all these accessory minerals. Titanite, apatite, sulfides, magnetite, zircon and more. Zircon was of particular interest for us. Its resistance to alteration makes it ideal for dating. Tiny crystals carrying time itself. You could get a surprisingly accurate idea of when the host rock formed.

Microscopic image of one of my thin sections in natural light, with a colorful array of amphiboles and biotite in a dirty white sea of feldspar

I was equally interested in apatite and sulfides. Some for thermometry and barometry calculations, others just out of curiosity. This was the kind of research I loved. Digging into complex methods, trying to reconstruct pressure, temperature, even oxygen fugacity of ancient magmatic systems. From that, you could infer things like the potential of a magma to transport gold.

It was precise and logical, yet somehow felt like science fiction.

Remote science in a strange year

Restrictions still made things complicated. For laser ablation work, we used the LA-ICP-MS at Laurentian University in Sudbury. Their setup was more powerful than what we had at UQAC. The lab manager, Jeff, was fantastic. After a short introduction, he trusted me to book and operate the system remotely. It was a pleasure.

Another thin section image, under polarized light this time showcasing the vivid colors quartz and zonation in feldspar

However, not everyone was that flexible. The microprobe lab in Quebec City refused remote access entirely, despite my prior experience from the University of Copenhagen. In doing all of the work themselves, their schedule was very limited and it took a very long time for me to get my results. Everyone was adapting differently to the new world of restrictions.

Still, those final months of 2020 were good for me.

Another thin section, this time under cathodoluminescence, highlighting a bunch of apatite crystals in a fluorescent green

“Laser time” became something I genuinely looked forward to. I would spend entire days in Lucie’s lab, remotely running analyses on my samples in Sudbury. One of my favorite tools was the EDS system. Quick, on-the-spot chemical readings. Not as precise as the laser, but perfect for identifying minerals and satisfying curiosity.

I’ll never forget December 2020. That’s when I identified a rare fluoro-carbonate mineral as parisite. High in rare earth elements. My first and only truly exotic find using EDS. Another memorable moment was spotting thorite inclusions inside zircon grains that looked completely destroyed from within. A perfect example of metamictisation. Radiation slowly breaking down the crystal structure over time.

Magnetite (in the center) and three zircons in preparation for EDS analysis. The top and rightmost zircons retained their zonation, while the bottom-left one has a destroyed core, replaced with bright white inclusions of thorite

These were my small discoveries. Quiet victories in a microscopy lab, with avant-garde progressive metal playing in the background. Some of my best memories from UQAC.

A quiet, uneasy ending

But December also brought a tightening of restrictions again. A new COVID variant, renewed panic, and Quebec shut things down once more. Non-essential services closed. The gym, which had kept me active and sane, was gone again. A curfew was introduced. Christmas gatherings were effectively cancelled.

After nearly a year of this, we had enough. Restrictions or not, Alexandre, Pedro, and I decided to meet for a turkey dinner at Pedro’s place.

Christmas turkey dinner at Pedro’s

I remember how dead the streets were that evening. Even by Chicoutimi standards, it felt eerie. Snow-covered, silent. Curtains drawn everywhere, as if people were hiding how many guests they had inside. It felt like everyone was quietly rebelling, but also watching over their shoulder.

The idea that you had to hide a small gathering from the authorities was… surreal. Still, we had our evening. We caught up. We laughed. For a moment, things felt normal again. 2020 was coming to an end, and we allowed ourselves a bit of hope.

Surely 2021 would be better. How much worse could it get?

Right?
…Right?
Wrong.

Geology Fieldwork in Chibougamau – Survival, Samples, and the Pluton de Lies

Geology Fieldwork in Chibougamau – Survival, Samples, and the Pluton de Lies

After a rocky first week of geology field work in Chibougamau, pun intended, our fortunes were about to improve. You could say we’d hit rock bottom… Okay, I’m pushing it now with the dad jokes. Just to recap some of our mishaps: we lost one of our GPS devices somewhere in the forest, we lost one of the truck’s side mirrors, and we got it stuck in deep mud, requiring the other team to come pull it out. At least we were being productive and getting some rock samples. Well, at least Alexandre was. I couldn’t reach one of my primary targets due to the thick forest and overgrown roads.

But field work has a funny way of balancing things out. Just when it feels like the forest is determined to humble you, something finally goes right.

Heavy Duty Sampling

As we got more accustomed to the terrain and our new sampling routine, we were becoming increasingly efficient with our time. Regular geological field sampling usually involves finding a good representative outcrop and hammering off a few fresh pieces of rock from it.

Sampling rocks using various tools

In the Canadian Shield, however, the outcrops are most often flattened, rounded, and polished by ancient glacial activity. That makes it highly difficult to hammer any decent rock pieces out of them. Even when using a chisel, we would usually end up with thin, superficial weathered chips that would yield poor geochemical results. Hardly representative of the magmas that had crystallized billions of years ago.

In Canada, however, we had an alternative method of sampling, something I had never seen, nor needed to use during field work in Europe: a rock saw. Or a concrete saw, as some call it. Essentially a hand-held motorized saw fitted with a large diamond cutting blade. A chainsaw for outcrops, if you will.

The rock saw and water pump backpack tank we used

This thing… was impressive. It was big, heavy, loud, and an absolute pain on the lower back to use. But boy, could it sample. Instead of hammering on a flat outcrop for half an hour only to collect a few useless weathered fragments, we could cut thick slabs of fresh, unaltered rock straight from the interior of the outcrop. As an added bonus, the vibration and exhaust during cutting kept most of the bugs away. Suffice to say, it quickly became our preferred method of sampling.

The rock saw did have two major downsides. It required a nearby water source to fill the cooling pump tank, and it was quite cumbersome to carry on longer hikes deep into the dense forest. However, for the easier-to-reach outcrops, it was a no-brainer. It saved us an incredible amount of time.

The Needle in a Haystack

One day, after becoming quite efficient with our rock saw, we managed to finish the day’s sampling targets surprisingly early. With plenty of spare time on our hands, Alexandre and I decided to head back to the forest where our GPS had gone missing during the first week. Maybe, just maybe, we could find it somewhere near the road.

Cattails swaying where the boreal meets the bog

We only had an approximate idea of the location since there were no GPS tracks to follow back. Alexandre parked the truck in roughly the same area where we thought we had stopped before. We headed into the forest and began searching. Pretty quickly, though, it became clear that this was a hopeless task.

The forest all looked the same. Thick bushes and tangled underbrush everywhere. The ground covered in a soft carpet of leaves, moss, and rotting branches. We wandered around for five or ten minutes before Alexandre finally gave up. It was the very definition of a needle-in-a-haystack situation. Defeated, we slowly wandered back toward the truck, still half-heartedly scanning the ground as we walked.

As I neared the road and slowly put one foot in front of the other, something caught my eye.

A faint flash of bright orange beneath the leaves, right where I was about to step.

THE GPS.

Against all odds, almost as if guided there by sheer luck, my foot nearly landed right on top of it. My eyes lit up. My jaw dropped. I bent down, grabbed it, and with a triumphant battle cry echoing through the forest, raised it high above my head like a long-lost trophy. We couldn’t believe it.

Fireweed in the endless green

It was a moment of pure disbelief, followed by sheer amazement and slightly manic laughter. It felt like a sign. Fortune had clearly turned in our favor.

“Pluton de France” the Second Attempt

After that stroke of luck, I decided to take another shot at Pluton de France on my project’s next field day. Since we had failed to reach the outlined polygon on my map by car the previous time, I wanted to attempt it on foot instead. This was going to be a bold undertaking, as the bush in this particular part of the Abitibi looked extremely dense.

Alexandre wasn’t too keen on the idea of a long, arduous hike through the boreal jungle. Fortunately, Adrian happened to be free that day and was willing to join me. So for one day I swapped partners and headed back northeast toward the elusive intrusive rocks somewhere near the edge of the Abitibi Greenstone Belt.

We drove as far as we could, essentially until we reached one of the old roads that had once led toward my target area. The road, however, had long since been reclaimed by nature. It was completely overgrown by dense alder thickets.

Right this way, sir… your target awaits just a couple of kilometers ahead. Enjoy your refreshing swim through the green foliage. Don’t forget your goggles… and a prayer

These alders seemed to thrive anywhere the forest had once been disturbed. Where logging had opened the canopy, they quickly took over the landscape. They grew like a strange hybrid between bushes and small trees—clusters of multiple thin trunks sprouting from a single base in the ground. Their branches were flexible, tightly packed, and tangled together into nearly impenetrable walls of vegetation.

Ironically, pushing through these alder thickets was often far more difficult than walking through the untouched forest. At least beneath the mature spruce and pine trees there was space to move. In the alder patches, however, every step became a battle against springy branches and dense foliage that refused to let you pass.

Swimming in Trees

We powered through as best we could, large tool-filled backpacks and all. This was easily the worst forest trekking of the entire field trip. We were legitimately fighting the forest inch by inch. Roots constantly tripped us up, while dense branches grabbed at our clothes and gear. This was the moment when I coined the phrase swimming in trees. The large sledgehammer sticking out of my backpack kept snagging on branches every few steps, which certainly didn’t help.

At least the trees provided shade from the mid-August sun

Still… we pushed on. Slowly. Extremely slowly. Fighting for every meter through an endless wall of dense bush. After a couple of hours of this, we finally reached the Pluton de France polygon according to the geological map.

And of course, there wasn’t an outcrop in sight. However, further ahead we noticed what looked like a small rise in the terrain. A hill meant there was a chance that bedrock might be exposed beneath the soil. So we pushed on. Eventually we reached a small incline and decided to start digging. We removed thick layers of leaves, branches, and soil until we struck rock. Finally!

The problem was that it looked… strange. Dark, heavily weathered, and altered by the soil to the point that I couldn’t immediately identify it. So we kept digging, clearing away more of the surface. When we finally managed to hammer off a few pieces, the truth became obvious.

A proud Adrien after we found and unearthed that first outcrop

It wasn’t what I was looking for at all. Not even close to what the map had suggested.

Pluton de Lies

Blasted inaccurate map, I thought. Still, we were close to the edge of the polygon, so I took a sample anyway and suggested we push a little farther toward the nearby lake that covered much of the mapped area.

Somewhere around that time another thought crossed my mind: this would be an absolutely terrible place to have a wildlife encounter. If we ran into a bear here, there would be no easy way to escape the sea of trees surrounding us. Then again, perhaps a bear would be smart enough to avoid pushing through such thick forest. Unlike us.

Some time later, deeper inside the target area, we finally found a small clearing near the top of the hill. To my relief there were even a couple of outcrops exposed there. Of course, they were perfectly flat and glacially polished—impossible to sample properly without the rock saw.

Hammering rock, only to find disappointment

And worse still… It was once again the wrong rock type. Dark, heavily altered basalt everywhere instead of the light-colored granitoids I had been hoping to find. What a disappointment.

More than anything, I was frustrated with the map itself. These geological maps, after all, are produced by the Québec Ministry during annual field campaigns. But even those teams can only cover so much ground, and sometimes the boundaries of geological units end up being… educated guesses. I marked the location on the map to note the discrepancy and kept the token sample from the previous location as reference.

Lucie later appreciated the effort, but she still had me discard the sample since it wasn’t useful for the project. All that effort. All that struggle through the forest. For nothing. But that’s field work. You win some. You lose some.

Roaming the Chibougamau Region

We continued our sampling campaign well into August. Alexandre’s project took us all around the Chibougamau area—from the high cliffs northeast of the lake to the far western stretches near Oujé-Bougoumou.

And once more we were close to a temporarily restricted area

On the western side of the Chibougamau pluton, we stumbled across several piles of trash near Oujé-Bougoumou. A sad and unfortunate eyesore in an otherwise vast and pristine wilderness. We also came across numerous animal tracks, mostly large canine ones. Likely local dogs, though wolves were certainly not out of the question.

Maybe someone should invest in a trash bin, or ten…

The only wildlife we consistently encountered, however, were the grouse, or as I liked to call them, forest chickens. We had heard plenty of stories about them beforehand, usually involving their questionable survival instincts. Instead of fleeing from danger, these birds, especially protective mothers, would often charge directly at the perceived threat in a rather unconvincing display of bravery. Not the best strategy when facing modern human inventions like trucks.

A mother grouse coming out onto the road to escort us away from her chicks

On foot, however, they were simply amusing. They would follow us around at a cautious distance, clucking and posturing, as if politely insisting that we leave their territory.

In the northeast, on the other hand, we encountered more “exciting” forest roads for our battle-hardened truck. At one point, a deep natural ditch carved out by a small creek abruptly killed the engine as the truck dropped into it—perfectly synchronized with the beat drop of the music playing in the car. No lasting damage, but plenty of dramatic effect.

The southern Wetlands

Whenever we shifted focus back to my project, we found ourselves driving farther and farther away from Chibougamau.

Only the best road conditions for us

One day took us deep south toward a small intrusion known as the Hazeur pluton. The landscape there transitioned from dense forest to open wetlands. At one point, the water had quite literally claimed part of the road. Alexandre, understandably, was having flashbacks to our previous encounter with waterlogged terrain that had left us completely stuck. This time, however, there was no mud, just firm gravel beneath the shallow water. We proceeded cautiously and made it through without issue.

The small Hazer pluton location. Still in doubt whether outcrop or boulder.

At the end of the road, a small outcrop, or possibly just a very large boulder, awaited us. The quiet swamp surrounded us on all sides. Far removed from any main road, it felt like prime territory for wildlife encounters. We spotted a few birds, including a large and majestic sandhill crane. In the distance, the eerie calls of loons echoed across the wetlands, occasionally interrupted by the faint howling of wolves.

A true call of the wild.

Zoomed in shot of a Sandhill Crane striding through tall grass in the Canadian wilderness

Despite that, there was no real sense of danger. We were working right next to the truck, heavy tools within reach. If anything, I felt completely at peace. There were barely any bugs, the scenery was wide open and beautiful, and for a moment it felt like we had stepped into a nature documentary.

Lesser Yellowlegs foraging stealthily in a marshy reed bed, blending perfectly with the surrounding cattails and reflections

To top it all off, I managed to collect several excellent sample blocks for my study. Easily one of the best locations we visited during the trip.

Blood for Samples

Another day took us west, past Chapais, toward a small syenite intrusion known as the Dolodau Stock. There, I finally managed to collect some of the best samples for my project. But the bounty came at a cost. Blood. We had wandered deep into black fly territory, and they were out in the millions. We were the main course.

Coming across blueberry bushes everywhere we went

Between hammering rocks and repeatedly drenching ourselves in bug spray, we uncovered one of the most fascinating outcrops of the entire campaign: a carbonatite unit, quite a rare igneous rock type, crosscut by sulfur-rich syenite veins.

Shiny disseminated pyrite cubes sparkled within the syenite. Grey magnetite blobs and black flaky micas stood out against the white carbonatite. Thick, blocky calcite veins cut across the outcrop like frozen rivers of stone. It was a geological treasure trove.

The large carbonatite unit, riddled with phlogopite (black mica) and magnetite

Throughout our field days, we often stumbled upon vast patches of wild blueberry bushes. Whenever we finished early, we would start gathering and snacking. Before long, we had collected an impressive haul, which we eventually brought back to base to dry and preserve.

The Final Days

The August days slipped by quickly, and our field campaign began drawing to a close. A few moments from that final week still stand out.

Prepping for a stroll along the northern railway

One of them involved walking along a set of railway tracks to reach a cliffside outcrop. It was a surprisingly calm day. No bushwhacking, no brutal driving, just a relaxed walk and straightforward sampling.

On another day, possibly our last, we aimed to reach one final target within the Chibougamau pluton. It was an easily accessible outcrop near a side road running parallel to the main road. However, the only connecting route required a long detour. Naturally, we decided to make things more interesting.

Killdeer standing alert and photogenic in short grass

After finishing our work, and soaking our boots while crossing flooded ground, I suggested taking a shortcut based on the map. Alexandre hesitated, but eventually gave in. I think we were both feeling a bit nostalgic about pushing our luck one last time. A sharp turn later, we found ourselves driving through a wet, sandy stretch just before a ramp leading up to the main road.

And… the truck got stuck. Again. This time, however, we were ready.

I jumped out to assess the situation while Alexandre quickly wedged traction aids under the tires. On my signal, he floored it, and the truck launched itself free, gliding across the remaining sand with ease. We had clearly graduated from the school of getting stuck in the mud.

The vast empty straight roads of the north

A Thunderous Roar Downstairs

Back at base, we needed to dry our soaked boots for the next day. There was a designated drying room, but it wasn’t quite enough for boots that wet. So naturally, we came up with a brilliant idea:

We put them in the dryer. The sound was… apocalyptic.

Meanwhile our blueberry bounty was drying in the kitchen upstairs

The machine roared and thundered as it violently tossed the heavy boots around inside, like drums announcing the end of the world. We closed every door we could, but the noise still echoed through the building like a distant storm. Miraculously, the dryer survived. And so did our boots.

The End of a Successful Field Campaign

On one of the final evenings, the sky was perfectly clear. No moon, no clouds. I suggested we drive out of town and stop at one of the abandoned quarries for some stargazing. After some hesitation, Nesrine and Adrian agreed. It was well worth it.

Above us stretched a breathtaking night sky. The Milky Way cut across the darkness, its bright star clusters contrasted by the deep shadow of the dark rift. As we stood there in silence, we once again heard wolves howling in the distance. It felt like the perfect ending to our time in the wilderness.

Under a crystal in northern Canadian wilderness

After 28 days of field work, we had collected 24 buckets of rock samples. Despite the rough start, we had successfully completed our summer campaign during one of the strangest years in recent history, 2020. A year when the world seemed to shut down. When uncertainty, isolation, and restrictions became part of everyday life.

And yet, out there in the wilds of northern Canada, things felt… different. For a while, we were free.

Free to work.
Free to explore.
Free to live something that felt almost normal again.

It wasn’t always easy. There were frustrations, setbacks, and long exhausting days. But there was also laughter, discovery, and moments that stayed with us. Moments that Alexandre and I still find ourselves retelling years later. And just like that, it was time to head back to Chicoutimi.

Messy beards, messy hairs and a truckload of samples after an adventurous month in the field

Back to our strangely constrained lives as PhD students in a world that hadn’t quite opened up again.

Chaos in Chibougamau: The First Week of Fieldwork

Chaos in Chibougamau: The First Week of Fieldwork

August, 2020. After months of solitude during the first COVID lockdown, our research team was finally somewhat liberated and on the move again. Our supervisor, Lucie, had secured us a three-week fieldwork campaign in northern Quebec. Two trucks. Two teams of two. Adrien and Nesrine, our group’s Master’s students. Alexandre and I, the PhD students. We set off north from Chicoutimi toward Chibougamau, the road stretching deeper and deeper into the boreal wilderness.

A Proper North American Truck

Even though I had recently obtained my Quebec driver’s license, I was still chickening out of driving. I was more than happy to let Alexandre take the wheel, especially since he seemed to prefer it anyway. Win-win.

The university had provided us with a pair of Ford F-150s. It was the largest truck either of us had been in, let alone driven thus far. Its size and power was clearly impressive. Sitting high above the road gave a commanding view, with very spacious and comfortable seating and engines that had more than enough muscle for the long northern highways. However, for the kind of forest roads and tight access tracks we would soon be navigating, the sheer size of the trucks would prove highly inconvenient.

The long drive north passed easily enough. Alexandre and I filled the hours with endless conversations, comparing cars, sharing relief about finally escaping our pandemic-induced confinement, and making plans for the weeks ahead.

A thick calcite vein cutting across an outcrop at Dolodau

We also had an unusual passenger with us. Alexandre had decided to bring along his cat, Turalyon. Leaving him alone in Chicoutimi for four weeks didn’t feel right, so Alexandre arranged for the cat to stay at a small animal shelter in Chibougamau while we were working in the field. Every few days, after returning from long days of sampling and driving through the wilderness, we would stop by to visit him.

Turalyon was not particularly fond of long car rides. Alexandre had to pull over a few times to clean up some cat puke along the way. Just another fun little bonus activity during our drive north.

Music also became a major part of the journey. Both of us were enthusiastic listeners with overlapping tastes, so the truck stereo quickly turned into a rotating playlist of band recommendations and rediscoveries.

The kilometres rolled by as the forests thickened and the towns grew fewer.

A Mining Town in the Boreal North

Chibougamau is the largest town in northern Quebec’s administrative region—an immense, sparsely populated territory that covers much of the province’s interior. Surrounded by endless boreal forest and lakes, the town sits within the traditional lands of the Cree Nation.

The region first drew attention during the 19th century when prospectors began exploring its mineral potential. But it wasn’t until the mid-20th century that Chibougamau truly emerged as a mining center, after significant copper and gold deposits were discovered in the surrounding area.

Watch out for that first step… it’s a doozey

Today the town remains an important hub for exploration and mining operations across northern Quebec. Geological surveys, drilling campaigns, and mineral development projects continue to bring researchers, geologists, and industry workers through the region. Companies such as SOQUEM maintain a strong presence, supporting exploration efforts across the vast northern landscape.

For a group of geology students heading into the field, it was very much the right place to be.

Barracks Living

Once in Chibougamau, we settled into our temporary accommodation at a SOQUEM work barracks on the edge of town.

As long as I got my Salmon Jerky with me, I’m good to go

It was certainly no Hotel Manoir D’Auteuil—a luxurious stay we had enjoyed during a conference trip the year before—but it provided everything we needed to get through the campaign. Well… almost everything.

The tap water, for instance. It smelled… swampy. And it tasted just as questionable. As we soon learned, the facility wasn’t connected to the city’s main water system. The barracks relied on its own untreated water source, which explained the unusual flavour.

Alexandre and I quickly made the executive decision to stick to bottled water. Adrien, on the other hand, decided to wing it. His stomach protested the decision rather violently. After several days of intense bathroom visits, a valuable fieldwork lesson had been learned.

Organizing Ourselves

Lucie would only be joining us during the second week of the campaign. Until then, we were largely responsible for organizing and coordinating the work ourselves. Without a clearly defined leadership structure, the early days required a bit of improvisation. Lucie had informally suggested that Adrien take on a coordinating role, mainly because he had already spent a year working in Quebec and was somewhat familiar with local field protocols. However, it wasn’t presented as a strict hierarchy, but more of a practical suggestion.

Our improvised office in Chibougamau

In practice, this meant that everyone approached the work with slightly different ideas about how things should run. Adrien tended to lean toward established field routines and procedures. For example, he suggested that we follow a schedule similar to one he had used during a previous placement with the Ministry, where Sundays were reserved as rest days. Alexandre and I looked at the situation a bit differently.

Our campaign was limited to just four weeks, and we had a substantial amount of work to complete. From our perspective, it made more sense to remain flexible and take advantage of good weather windows whenever possible. Rather than fixing a weekly day off, we preferred to let the weather dictate our rest days. As it turned out, that approach worked out quite well.

We ended up working straight through several Sundays when the weather was ideal. Later, when a particularly miserable stretch of rain rolled through during the week, we simply stayed back at the barracks and took that opportunity to rest while the others pushed through damp conditions with limited progress.

Time Versus Caution

Another topic that sparked some discussion was the question of daily working hours. Adrien suggested we follow a strict afternoon cut-off time. No matter what we were doing in the field, we should be heading back toward the barracks by around 4 p.m.

Gilman lake on the east side of Chibougamau

Alexandre and I once again leaned toward a more flexible approach. In August, daylight in northern Quebec stretches well into the evening, and it felt almost wasteful to leave productive field sites while the sun was still high in the sky. Our instinct was to maximize our time outdoors whenever conditions allowed.

At the same time, Adrien’s caution wasn’t without merit. Fieldwork in remote terrain carries its own set of risks. If something were to go wrong—vehicle trouble on a forest road (foreshadowing), an injury on an outcrop, or getting temporarily stuck somewhere off the grid—it might require assistance from the other team. Pushing too far into the evening could mean that any unexpected situation would have to be dealt with as daylight faded, increasing the complexity and risk of resolving the problem.

In other words, what Alexandre and I saw as maximizing productivity, Adrien viewed through the lens of field safety and contingency planning.

Neither approach was inherently right or wrong. It was simply a reflection of different working styles. Alexandre and I tended to focus heavily on efficiency and optimization, while Adrien leaned more toward structured procedures and established routines. Like many field teams thrown together for the first time, we were still figuring out our rhythm.

Two Projects, Two Field Strategies

Because Alexandre had more intensive fieldwork to do in the immediate area, we decided to divide our schedule somewhat strategically. Weekdays would be dedicated to his work, while weekends would be used for my own sampling campaign.

Alexandre’s PhD research focused on the Chibougamau pluton, a massive granodiorite intrusive rock body underlying much of the region around the town. Formed roughly 2.7 billion years ago during the late Archean, the pluton represents an ancient magmatic system associated with significant gold mineralization in the region. His work aimed to conduct a detailed petrogenetic study of these rocks—essentially reconstructing how the magma formed, evolved, and ultimately crystallized deep within the Earth’s crust.

The kind of pinkish rocks we were looking for during our field trip

My own project took a somewhat broader approach. Instead of focusing on a single intrusion, I was sampling a number of different late-Archean syenite intrusions scattered across the region, which Lucie and I had preselected before the campaign. These locations were much farther from Chibougamau and often required long drives from our base.

In simple terms, both of us were chasing light pinkish rocks formed from very ancient magmas—just slightly different kinds, and in different places. Alexandre was studying the internal story of one major intrusion. I was comparing several others in order to test the validity of a somewhat debated geological model known as intrusion-related gold systems. Different scientific questions, but somewhat overlapping regions of work.

Day One in the Ghost House

The first day began under a murky sky with light rain in the forecast. We drove northeast out of Chibougamau, gradually leaving pavement behind as we followed increasingly questionable forest roads winding through lakes and dense boreal forest. Somewhere beneath us lay the Chibougamau pluton itself. The intrusion stretches across dozens of kilometres beneath the region, extending beneath the large lake in the area.

So far so good. The road’s looking pretty chill… except for maybe that last bit

The roads we were using had once been logging or mining access routes. Many had clearly not seen much maintenance in years. Some looked like they had not seen any maintenance at all. This particular road was a pretty good contender for the worst we’d encounter.

Branches increasingly scraped along both sides of the truck as we pushed forward through narrow overgrowth. Every few minutes I would optimistically reassure Alexandre: Look, it’s getting better. Almost immediately another set of branches would slap aggressively against the doors and mirrors.

This was also where the size of the F-150 started to work against us. These trucks are perfect for the big wide, preferably paved, northern roads. But not for these tight abandoned roads that were slowly being reclaimed by the forest. Now, some people might have suggested parking the truck and continuing on foot. But the distances Alexandre needed to cover for his sampling were enormous. With limited time and an efficiency-focused mindset, we decided to push forward with the vehicle and see how far we could get.

Deeper and deeper we went searching for rocks

At some point early in the trip, while driving along one of the forest roads, I noticed a strange button on the truck’s key fob marked with a little exclamation point. I had never seen anything like it before, so I jokingly asked Alexandre if it was the panic button. Curious himself, he pressed it—and the truck immediately erupted into a series of loud honks that echoed through the quiet forest, catching both of us completely off guard. So yes… it was indeed the panic button. From that moment on, that’s exactly what we called it.

Later that same day, after wandering through the misty woods in search of rock outcrops, we eventually decided to head back toward the road. The problem was that we weren’t entirely sure where the road actually was anymore. We thought we had a decent sense of direction, but just to confirm, Alexandre pressed the panic button again so we could listen for the truck. The honking came from the complete opposite direction—not slightly off, but entirely wrong. And this wasn’t even in the dense jungle-like forest we would encounter later in the trip. It was a humbling reminder of just how easy it was to lose your bearings out here without proper navigation equipment.

The First Day’s Results

And cover ground we did. By the end of the day we had pushed as far along that road as we reasonably could without wasting too much time wandering blindly through the forest on foot. Unfortunately, there wasn’t much reward waiting at the end of the drive.

Outcrops were scarce. Most of what surrounded us was dense forest, marshland, and the occasional lake. Not exactly a rocky paradise for an ambitious geologist on his first field day. Still, we had managed to survey a large area, collect a few samples, and, most importantly, get a better sense of the terrain.

Were we even on the road anymore? Who knew?

The mood remained high throughout the day. Music played through the truck speakers while we joked constantly about the excellent road conditions and weather. But on the way back, our spirits took a sudden hit.

Remember those branches scraping along the truck? Well… some of them were larger than others. Quite a bit larger. In several places the vehicle had essentially been squeezed through narrow sections of overgrown road. Forced through might actually be a more accurate description. Somewhere along that journey, without either of us noticing, the passenger’s side mirror decided to take a hike. Not the entire mirror assembly. Just the glass. Gone. Vanished into the northern wilderness.

Driving back to base with morale in the toilet

We hadn’t thought to fold the mirrors while navigating what increasingly felt like a boreal jungle. Another lesson learned. Alexandre immediately slammed the truck into a U-turn and we began carefully retracing our path in the hope of recovering the missing mirror. Despite a thorough search and a considerable amount of backtracking, we never found it.

Not Exactly According to Plan

The unexpected mirror recovery operation also meant we pushed our return much later into the afternoon than originally planned. By the time we rolled back into the barracks, it was well past the time Adrien had suggested we should be safely heading back from the field. The situation did not exactly improve the ongoing debate about field schedules and safety margins.

Another tense discussion followed between Adrien and a very frustrated Alexandre, fueled by our late return, the damaged vehicle, and the already diverging approaches to how we thought the field campaign should run.

For the moment, Alexandre and I quietly decided to keep one particular detail to ourselves. Namely, that the truck was now missing a mirror. We were off to a spectacular start.

The Terror of the North

A couple of days later the skies finally cleared and we were rewarded with several bright, sunny days. With the warmth and sunshine, however, came one of the true terrors of northern fieldwork: the insects.

The weather had improved, but would our fortune improve as well?

The boreal forest is infamous for its seasonal waves of bloodsucking pests. Four main culprits dominate the warm months, each appearing at slightly different times of the summer, sometimes overlapping in particularly miserable combinations. The most famous worldwide is the mosquito. Ironically, these were often the least annoying of the group at least during the daytime.

Then came the true terror of the north: black flies. These tiny specks looked almost like fruit flies, but they were relentless carnivores. And where there was one, there were usually thousands. They crawled into every opening they could find—ears, sleeves, collars—biting and harassing you constantly. Walking through the forest meant being surrounded by a cloud of them, endlessly probing for exposed skin. They were absolute hellspawns.

A fuzzy bug on an outcrop

The other two members of the northern insect quartet are deerflies and horseflies, but thankfully we encountered relatively few of those during this particular adventure. The black flies, however, were more than enough.

The Jungle of the North

Some days were worse than others, and some locations were far more tolerable. Around town or along major roads things were manageable. But the moment we stepped deep into the forest, or near lakes and swampy areas, the insects quickly reminded us who really owned the place. But for us newcomers, it was pretty brutal.

The forest itself didn’t help matters either. In many places the vegetation was so dense that moving through it became a full-body workout. Progress meant constantly pushing through branches, tangled bushes, and young trees fighting for sunlight. Coming from Europe, it felt almost surreal.

A white-spotted sawyer beetle in the back of our truck

This wasn’t the kind of forest I had grown up with. Not even close. It was more like an overgrown jungle. Without a machete, you were essentially swimming through vegetation, pushing your way forward against an endless green current.

More Bad Luck

On one of the weekdays during our first week, we were traversing a section of what I would generously describe as medium-density forest. That meant it was still somewhat walkable. We carried our usual gear: hammers, sample bags, notebooks. Alexandre had his tablet, and I carried his Garmin GPS unit clipped to my belt.

Roaming through the boreal forest

After finishing our work in the area, we returned to the truck. That’s when I noticed something odd. The only thing still clipped to my pants was the carabiner and the battery clip. The GPS itself was gone. When I had changed the batteries earlier, I had apparently failed to properly lock the safety latch back into place. Somewhere during our trek through the dense vegetation, the bushes must have caught the device and ripped it clean off.

I felt terrible about losing it. Alexandre, meanwhile, was already becoming increasingly demoralized after the string of mishaps we had experienced so far. To make matters worse, the device design itself seemed almost engineered for failure. The small clip used to attach the GPS to your belt was mounted on the battery compartment, not on the main body of the unit. Meaning if the clip came loose, the entire device simply vanished.

We had to stay close in the forest because even with high visibility vests, we could easily lose each other in the green

Improve your device design, Garmin!

The Quest for the “Pluton de France”

During the first weekend we dedicated Saturday to my project. My target was a large pink blob on the geological map labeled Pluton de France, a sizeable Monzonite intrusion located northeast of Chibougamau. From literature it seemed close enough to what I was hoping to sample for my study.

We tried several old logging roads, driving long stretches only to eventually encounter dead ends. Some roads had collapsed entirely. Others had been completely reclaimed by vegetation. It quickly became clear that any industrial activity in this area had likely been abandoned for many years.

An overgrown old logging site providing a large clearing in the forest

Rather than return empty-handed, I decided to improvise and sample several interesting-looking outcrops along the way. Fieldwork often requires adapting to reality on the ground. After all, there’s only so much you can determine from a rock in hand before laboratory analysis reveals the full story.

At one point we reached a large open clearing left behind by past logging operations. The place felt strangely peaceful. Calm. Quiet. Even the bugs seemed to take a break there. But then we spotted something on the ground. Bear droppings. Suddenly the calm silence of the clearing felt a little less comforting.

A Couple of Hours to Kill

After trying, and failing, to reach the Pluton de France from several different directions, I eventually admitted defeat. We still had some time left in the day, though, and curiosity got the better of me. Just north of our location on the map was a massive lake with a peculiar shape, almost like a giant claw mark carved into the landscape: Lake Mistassini.

Leaving the logging roads behind for the day

From the map it didn’t seem that far away. At least not when zoomed out. We were already roughly halfway between Chibougamau and Mistassini, so why not take the opportunity for a bit of sightseeing? There was just one complication.

Despite the illusion of normality our fieldwork provided, the world was still very much living through the 2020 pandemic lockdowns. We had been clearly instructed that the nearby First Nations communities, including Mistissini and Oujé-Bougoumou, were off limits to outside visitors. And yet here we were. Driving toward Mistassini. Rebels.

A Forbidden Detour

We justified it to ourselves with a simple plan: drive to the lake, take a few photos, refuel, and head back. No interactions with locals. Besides, we were already running low on fuel. The Mistassini gas station was now closer than the one back in Chibougamau. Unfortunately, when we reached the turnoff toward town, we discovered a line of cars waiting at a checkpoint.

The community had set up actual road controls to monitor who was entering and leaving. This is when we started sweating. Turning around was not an option anymore, but Alexandre wasn’t interested in pushing our luck any further either. We would do exactly one thing: reach the gas station, fill up, and leave.

Sunsets from our base camp in Chibougamau

No sightseeing, no lake, No detours. I wasn’t going to push the issue. Alexandre had already had a stressful enough week. And so Lake Mistassini remained unseen. Another small opportunity lost to the rigid world of 2020.

The Beaver Dam

The following day we returned to exploring the Chibougamau area for Alexandre’s project. Another sunny day. Another road our truck was probably never meant to drive on.

You see an impenetrable forest, I see a shortcut

Despite appearances, the road actually wasn’t too bad overall. The only questionable part was a small creek crossing in a swampy section. Otherwise, it was quite decent by our new standards. We collected some solid samples, the insects were tolerable, and the day progressed smoothly. But on the drive back something had changed.

The small creek crossing had widened. Part of the road had begun collapsing into the swamp. Still, we had crossed it once already without issue. Surely the second time would be fine. Alexandre eased the truck slowly forward into the muddy water. And then… The truck stopped. Stuck.

Getting the traction aid out

We stepped out to inspect the situation and quickly realized the problem. The road had been built over an old beaver dam, and that dam had begun collapsing. The more Alexandre tried to drive out, the deeper the front wheel dug itself into the mud. Water seeped into the growing crater around the tire while the truck slowly tilted sideways like a sinking ship. Eventually the car felt so tilted that I had to pull myself out through the drivers side whenever I wanted to get out.

We tried digging. We tried traction aid under the tires. Nothing worked. After more than an hour of struggling, we finally admitted defeat.

The Accidental Distress Signal

Alexandre pulled out the satellite phone and managed to reach Adrien after several attempts. Meanwhile, I grabbed the SPOT emergency GPS device we had been given for field safety. In case of trouble, we were supposed to send a notification through it so our supervisor Lucie, back in Chicoutimi, would know our situation.

There was just one small problem. During the original briefing, it hadn’t been made entirely clear which button should be used in which situation. The device had three buttons. One was strictly for life-threatening emergencies and would contact national rescue services. The other two were meant for lesser degrees of trouble.

Traction aid was doing a great job at sinking into the mud under the tire

Out of the two, I picked the one that sent a distress alert to Lucie and the entire research team back at the university. This naturally caused a brief panic on their end. Some people began discussing whether national rescue services might need to be contacted. Fortunately, Lucie knew us well enough not to immediately escalate the situation.

So no helicopters were dispatched to rescue two geologists with a truck stuck in the mud.

The Rescue Operation

Adrien and Nesrine were already on their way back to the barracks when Alexandre reached them by phone. They immediately turned around and headed toward our location. Meanwhile, we packed our essentials, locked the truck, and began walking down the road toward the main route.

Thankfully, we hadn’t gotten stuck too far from a larger road, so reaching us wasn’t too difficult. After the week Alexandre had endured, he was clearly bracing himself for another argument about field decisions. But none came. Adrien simply picked us up and tried to lighten the mood. No judgment. These things happen. He was a trooper.

Adrien arrived with the second truck

He had also brought along a tow cable. None of us had ever actually attempted a recovery like this before, so a fair amount of improvisation followed. We hooked the two trucks together, stepped back to a safe distance, and Adrien floored it. His truck fishtailed wildly for a moment… Then suddenly our vehicle broke free from the mud with a loud, satisfying suction pop. Cheers erupted.

The crisis was over. And when we returned to base later that evening, we suddenly realized something unfortunate. Oh. Look at that. The passenger-side mirror was missing. What a shame. Clearly it must have fallen off while the truck was stuck in the mud and not at any other point in time… Those damn beavers and their dams.

A Turning Point

For all the misfortunes that plagued our first week—lost mirrors, missing GPS units, insect swarms, collapsing beaver dams—it would ultimately mark the lowest point of the entire campaign. From that moment on, things slowly began to improve.

What a great road… 10 out of 10, would drive it again

The remaining weeks of our fieldwork would prove far smoother, far more productive, and far less chaotic. But those first few days in the northern wilderness had already given us stories we would be laughing about for years.

And the rest of the expedition still had plenty in store for us.

The Winter Before the World Stopped

The Winter Before the World Stopped

Following Christmas week in New York City, 2019 quietly came to an end with a relaxed New Year’s Eve dinner and drinks between two good friends. I was deep in my experimental cooking phase and had Alexandre over for a homemade, slightly burned, Greek moussaka.

A new year awaited. After the kind of year I’d just had, it was clear 2020 would probably be calmer. A step back. A year to build, not explode forward. As everyone now knows in hindsight, it would be far more than that — for all of us.

The New Semester Brought a New Victim to UQAC

With January came a new semester at UQAC. Alexandre and I registered for the two required PhD courses. Geology was always a small circle with barely a handful of students, most of them foreign. Among them was Pedro, a Brazilian PhD candidate who had just moved to Chicoutimi.

Welcome to the North. This is what you’ll see for half a year.

Pedro was one of those people who collects stories simply by existing. A guy who had never seen snow in his life moved to northern Canada in January, during a -40°C cold snap, with meters of snow and winter storms rolling in like clockwork. The story practically wrote itself.

After surviving the thermal shock, he endured months living with a questionable Québécois family. Among the gems he would retell: the time he opened the basement fridge to find his sandwich placed beside a box containing a dead cat. The owners were “waiting for spring to bury it” and didn’t want to leave it outside.

Pedro processed this information the way any rational person would — by moving out as soon as possible. With the amount of crazy stories he told us about his first months in Canada, he should honestly write his own blog.

The Rivière du Moulin during winter

He fit perfectly into our little circle of mildly disgruntled foreign PhD students trying to decode Quebec one snowstorm at a time.

The Quest for a Drivers License

For me, that winter felt like a tense calm before a summer storm. It was the first year of my PhD. That summer I was scheduled to do three months of fieldwork across Quebec and Ontario. Which meant one thing: I needed to renew my driver’s license.

The path ahead — Park du Rivière-du-Moulin

At the time I possesses an expired Romanian relic I hadn’t used since one lonely drive in Iceland in 2016. Naturally, it couldn’t be simple. Because my foreign license had expired, Quebec couldn’t simply exchange it. I had to redo the tests. Easy enough. Except I had barely driven in ten years.

Confidence low. Stress high. Instead of responsibly studying the driving manual, I decided to go in blindly. In contrast to my first driving exam when I passed both theory and practice on the first try, this time around I failed. Then failed again. The upside? Exam fees were cheap. Unlimited attempts.

The downside? A mandatory one-month wait between attempts. And of course, the regional SAAQ office was in Jonquière, not Chicoutimi. Which meant an hour-long bus ride each way through Saguenay’s bleak winter landscape every time I wanted to fail another exam. It was not a joyous era.

But with each attempt, I improved. Eventually I passed the theoretical. Then came the practical — rinse, repeat, stress, repeat. By summer, I finally had my Quebec driver’s license. Considering what was unfolding globally, this minor bureaucratic victory now feels oddly monumental.

My routine 10 km park walks to and from the supermarket and gym

But I’m getting ahead of myself. Let’s rewind to winter.

Francisation

Another goal I had set at the start of the year was learning French properly. The university offered nothing useful in that regard. It was Pedro who pointed me toward Quebec’s government-funded francisation classes for newcomers. The Centre de formation générale des adultes was a ten-minute walk from campus.

When I went to register, the woman at the desk spoke exclusively French and had to evaluate my level. I stitched together broken sentences from memory. It didn’t come across as much. Beginner level it was.

But within a few weeks, something interesting happened. Fragments of childhood French combined with fluency in Romanian, a Latin language like French, roots began clicking into place. Vocabulary accelerated. Patterns emerged.

So I was bumped up a level or two. It felt like I was on the right path. Well on my way to adapt and integrate into my new life in French-Canada.

Routine into the Storm

Between language classes, Jonquière license expeditions, PhD coursework, and research work, I barely had time to breathe. But it was structured. Productive. Forward-moving. A couple times a week, Alexandre and I would make our “shopping expedition” — a half-hour walk through snow-covered streets to Place du Royaume, with a mandatory stop at Archambault along the way. Life was cold, busy, and routine. Until mid-March.

Sometimes the waterfall just completely froze

Another winter storm was forecast — strong winds, heavy snowfall. The university closed for the day. Nothing unusual. The next day I returned to find the campus in complete blackout. The storm had damaged major power lines. Parts of the town were without electricity. I made my way to our office using my phone flashlight. Inside, a few colleagues were sitting in pitch darkness, casually talking. Our office had no windows. This never bothered me much, but Alexandre hated it. We chatted in the dark for a while, laughed at the absurdity, then left. No work accomplished.

The following day was another write-off. I can’t even remember if it was still the outage, another storm, or just institutional confusion. The week was dissolving. At some point I joked to my friends: Just watch, Friday’s excuse is going to be a University shutdown because of that coronavirus thing. The news had been escalating into fear mongering. China. Italy. Numbers rising. Dramatic headlines.

Then Friday came. And with it, a state of emergency. The university closed. The province shut down. The world closed itself off. And just like that, routine evaporated. Me and my big mouth.

The New World Order — Life during the COVID-19 lockdown

Early into the first lockdown, I have to admit I felt a selfish sense of vindication. A quiet, petty sort of justice. For months I had been navigating life in a place where I barely spoke the language and knew only a couple of people. Isolation had been my baseline. And now, suddenly, everyone else was getting a taste of it.

Welcome to my world.

Time stopped dripping here. The world held its breath, and winter simply kept sculpting what was already still

At the same time, I secretly welcomed the abrupt pause. My schedule had been escalating into overload — PhD work, language classes, driving exam shenanigans, constant self-imposed pressure. The world hitting pause felt… convenient. I expected it to last a week. Maybe two. And then it just kept going.

Mask mandates appeared. Supermarket floor arrows dictated which direction you could walk, as if we were items on a conveyor belt. Entire stores closed. Curfews were introduced. News cycles amplified panic daily. Then came the toilet paper crisis. One of the stranger collective breakdowns of modern civilization.

Meanwhile, my mom in Romania described increasingly rigid restrictions there. At one point, people had to fill out official declaration papers justifying why they were leaving their homes. It triggered flashbacks for her — memories of life under Ceaușescu’s communist regime, when movement and speech were tightly controlled.

The longer the restrictions lasted, the more frustration built. The virus itself wasn’t what weighed on me most. It was the scale of disruption. The sense that normal life had been switched off indefinitely.

Remote Everything

The lockdown halted my French learning completely. At first, the school closed. Weeks later they began discussing remote options. But by then something inside me had shifted. My motivation drained slowly, almost imperceptibly. What was the point?

The surface freezes while the current moves on. Stillness and Motion.

University research continued from home. At that stage, most of my work involved literature review, so technically it was manageable. Psychologically, it was another story. For some of us, the university environment was essential — a mental trigger that said: now we work. At home, especially in small studio apartments, the boundaries collapsed. The same room that was for sleeping and relaxing became the office, classroom, gym, cafeteria. It blurred everything.

The university experimented with remote courses. It was… rough. At first, everyone tried. Professors adapting to Zoom. Students attempting to focus. But attention spans eroded quickly. Small distractions became irresistible. Changing backgrounds. Flipping someone’s screen. Eventually most students logged in, turned off their cameras and microphones, and disappeared into parallel lives while the professor lectured into the void. I often used that time to cook or clean. Assignments replaced exams. Everyone passed. I retained very little.

The longer the lockdown dragged on, the more pointless everything began to feel. The one concrete achievement of that period was my driver’s license. After all the failures and bus rides through frozen Saguenay, finally passing felt disproportionately triumphant. A small win in a shrinking world.

A Dead Campus

Fighting persistently on our behalf, our supervisor managed to secure limited access to the university for our research group. Strict rules, of course. Masks at all times. Only certain rooms permitted. Not our windowless office, but Lucie’s windowless lab-office. It was something.

The branches held their shape. Everything else waited. Frost simply finished what pause had started

When I think of UQAC now, I mostly remember it as it was during that period: a silent, cold building where you had to ring a security guard to enter. Empty hallways. Fluorescent lighting humming over abandoned corridors. It felt like living a post-apocalypse survival video game.

Apart from each other and supermarket outings, Alexandre and I hadn’t seen people in months. The streets were dead. The first time we saw our supervisor in person again, we talked for hours. Complained. Reflected. Laughed. It felt strangely profound — as if we had all returned from separate planets. Human contact had become a novelty.

The Slow Summer Shift

Weeks passed. Then a month. Finally, our supervisor pulled off another small miracle: approval for one month of fieldwork in August up north for her entire research group of four. Alexandre was relieved. Energized. It felt like movement. Progress. Normalcy.

I felt… nothing. What had begun as quiet vindication had slowly dissolved into indifference. I remember preparing supplies at the university and running into an old colleague, Tague. He was genuinely excited for us. “You guys must be thrilled!” I shrugged. Meh.

The cold had pressed pause so long the world forgot warmth. Yet here, on sun-heated rock, life tests its wings once more, slow and deliberate

In hindsight, I think something subtle had been settling in. Not dramatic, nor cinematic. Just a quiet flattening of emotion. A kind of functional numbness. I went through the motions. I did what needed to be done. But the internal spark, the ambition and momentum I had carried into 2020, had dimmed.

It would take a long time to recognize it for what it probably was. A slow, quiet form of depression.

Early PhD Life in Canada: Settling In and Academic Pressures

Early PhD Life in Canada: Settling In and Academic Pressures

Following my rough landing in Quebec, I was settling into early PhD life in Canada, slowly building a routine in Chicoutimi. My daily commute traced a familiar path: starting from the shores of the Saguenay, climbing the steep hill toward the cathedral, passing the CEGEP and its long stone wall, then continuing up yet another incline all the way to the doors of UQAC. It wasn’t a long distance, but it was a relentless one — a daily reminder that nothing here would come easily.

Early PhD Student Life

One of the first major differences I noticed between Europe and North America was how PhD candidates are treated by their institutions. In most European countries, PhD students are considered employees. Whether through contracts with the university or the research group, the general attitude is that you’re part of the research staff — junior, yes, but staff nonetheless.

Église Sacré-Coeur (Sacred Heart Parish), Chicoutimi

In North America, however, you are firmly a student. You don’t receive a salary; you receive a grant. You don’t automatically gain elevated access to labs or resources. In many ways, you’re treated no differently than an undergraduate who might still be figuring out where their next lecture is. For many of us Europeans, this distinction was immediately noticeable — and not particularly well liked.

Roadmap ahead

That said, I would have two mandatory courses to take in my second semester, while my first one focused on independent PhD research work. At this stage, my “research” consisted almost entirely of information gathering for what they called a research proposal. In practice, it was an exam — an extensive written report and a formal presentation at the end of the semester, used to determine whether you were deemed fit to continue as a PhD candidate.

At first, the idea of having to prove myself again after already landing the position felt mildly irritating. But in hindsight, it was actually a solid approach. The process forced us to define the scope of our projects early, while also thinking through logistics, feasibility, and costs — all things that would become painfully important later on.

Historical Park of Sainte-Anne’s Cross on the north side of Chicoutimi

My time at the University of Copenhagen had prepared me well for steep learning curves, so the research proposal itself didn’t worry me much. The courses, however… those were a different matter. They were supposed to be taught in French.

How, exactly, was I supposed to pass university-level courses in a language I could barely understand?

The Sergeant

During our first weeks there, Alexandre and I had already heard one of our course professors mentioned several times by our supervisor, Lucie. She spoke fluent English but retained a strong French accent — normally not an issue, except for one small problem.

Neither of us could quite understand the professor’s name. All we got was Sergeant Barnes.

Alexandre and I exchanged looks, silently wondering what kind of military drill instructor we were about to encounter. Was this man going to bark orders at us? Make us march? Fail us out of spite?

South side of the Parc de la Rivière-du-Moulin

After weeks of mystery, the Sergeant revealed herself to be Sarah Jane Barnes — a highly respected English geologist teaching at UQAC. Together with her husband, she would be responsible for the handful of courses we were required to take.

Bizarro World

In what felt like a linguistic reverse uno card, the two professors turned out to be fluent French speakers with the harshest English accents my ears had ever been subjected to. So strong, in fact, that even native French students sometimes struggled to understand them — and would occasionally mutter that they wished the courses were taught in English instead.

It was truly bizarro world.

As October rolled in, it brought with it the cool, pre-winter air

Fortunately, “the Sergeant” turned out to be both sharp and considerate. Early on, she asked the class whether we would prefer the course to be taught in French or English. On that particular course, non–French speakers were actually in the majority. With even the French speakers’ approval, we continued in English.

From what I gathered, this was not something UQAC was particularly thrilled about — which made the situation even more ironic.

An international university… right?

Priorities

Courses aside, I clearly had to start learning French sooner or later — if nothing else, simply to improve my quality of life. I asked at the university what options they had for language courses, but these were limited to specific semesters. Eventually, I realized my best option was the government-sponsored French courses for immigrants. Free of charge. I would start the following year.

For now, the priority was getting past the PhD candidature exam.

Just a little Saguenay duck scratching an itch

Another aspect discussed with my supervisor was the need for a valid driver’s license the following year. This was, after all, North America, and I couldn’t realistically get anywhere — let alone do fieldwork — without driving. My old Romanian driver’s license had expired a couple of years earlier, and since I hadn’t used a car in a long time, I never renewed it.

Another thing to deal with next year.

The tasks were slowly mounting for 2020. I was already foreseeing a heavy workload for at least the first half of the year…

Heh. I had no idea what was truly coming. But I guess none of us did…

Small Town, Limited Options

During my free time, I took the opportunity to familiarize myself with Chicoutimi and its places of interest. There weren’t that many. The town center was essentially a single street lined with stores, bars, and a handful of restaurants.

Alexandre and I tried them one by one, but — how can I put it — the quality was mediocre at best.

Even Turalyon (Alexandre’s cat) was unimpressed

I’m fairly sure neither of us will ever forget a certain pizza we ordered once. It was so overloaded with low-quality industrial sausage, cheese, and astonishing amounts of salt that it felt like they were aggressively compensating quantity for quality.

Other options included the typical North American fast food, especially Quebec’s beloved poutine. I kept hearing locals rave about it, so I finally gave it a try. For the uninitiated, in its most primal form, poutine consists of deep-fried fries topped with a strange, gummy-textured cheese curd and drowned in gravy.

It was… certainly something. I’m still not sure I would have categorized it as food.

With limited options for eating out or ordering in, we were left exploring the wondrous offerings of Walmart. Like… Pogos. Another deep-fried favorite — now also frozen. Essentially a wiener in a bun… on a stick.

Ah. The joys of Chicoutimi.

My daily commutes through endless residential neighborhoods

On the days Alexandre and I didn’t meet up, I used the opportunity to improve my cooking skills and prepare my own meals. It was cheaper and infinitely better. In the following months, I also discovered higher-quality supermarkets like IGA and Provigo. These at least offered a wider selection of meats and produce — and even some decent cheese, which my very critical French friend actually approved of.

Ah, Chicoutimi. You were definitely an experience.

A New Sanctuary

Despite the many eyebrow-raising experiences, Chicoutimi did manage to provide me with a sanctuary.

I mentioned in older posts how, whenever I move somewhere new, I inevitably end up finding a place that simply clicks with me — somewhere I return to when I need calm, clarity, or just space to think.

Following the Moulin river across the Park

In Copenhagen, it was Charlottenlund Beach Park.
In Chicoutimi, it became Parc de la Rivière-du-Moulin.

A large natural park following the Moulin River from the southern outskirts of the town all the way north to the Saguenay River. Coincidentally, the northern entrance to the park wasn’t far from my place, and one of its many exits led straight to the large shopping area with the supermarkets, shops, and the gym I had signed up for.

Waterfall and rapids along the Moulin river

In the turbulent years that followed, the park became more than just a refuge from troubling thoughts. It turned into my almost daily (or every-other-day) trekking route — roughly 8 kilometers — whether I was heading to the gym, the shops, or the university.

Rain or shine.
Breeze or blizzard.
Plus or minus thirty degrees.

Quebec City

In November, our research group prepared for a short trip. Quebec Mine — one of the annual mining and research conferences — was coming up, and all of us were attending. It would also be my first time in Quebec City.

Château Frontenac, one of the most iconic buildings in Quebec CIty

Having been there before, Alexandre was excited to show me around one of the more civilized and urbanized parts of Quebec. Our supervisor gave us a budget limit per night and allowed us to book our own accommodation.

We, uh… chose a pretty dang nice one. Barely within budget, of course. Hotel Manoir D’Auteuil.

Each room had its own name and theme, and somehow, they placed the two of us in the chapel. Name aside, it was easily the most opulent hotel room I had ever stayed in — elevated beds, rustic furniture, and a marble-clad bathroom with an absurdly inviting bathtub.

Welcome to the chapel at Hotel Manoir D’Auteuil

The one and only downside was the bathroom floor, which remained brutally cold at all times.

Otherwise? 10 out of 10 — would chapel again.

The Conference

The conference took place mid-semester and was modest in size, drawing mostly local Quebec professors, researchers, and mining industry experts, with a handful of attendees from elsewhere in Canada. Most participants were French speakers, but the lectures themselves were held in English so that non-French speakers like me could follow along.

I spent most of my time attending talks and meeting new people, including my second supervisor, Stéphane — a highly respected professor from UQAM (Université du Québec à Montréal).

In the evenings, Alexandre and I would stroll around the beautiful old city center of Quebec

Despite the increased socializing, my limited French once again came back to haunt me. Conversations would usually start with a bit of small talk in English, only to abruptly flip into French. I’d catch a few words here and there, maybe even the occasional sentence, but following along was exhausting. Eventually, my brain learned to quietly phase out whenever discussions went fully French — something I had experienced before in Denmark when surrounded by Danish friends.

The Challenge Bowl

The highlight of the conference for me was a contest I decided to take part in — the Challenge Bowl, as they called it. Entry was free, I needed some entertainment, and best of all, it was entirely in English.

We were paired up in teams of two and thrown into a series of multiple-choice trivia challenges focused on geophysics. Now, I am not a geophysicist. I had absolutely no business being there. Then again, neither did my randomly assigned partner. A dream team, really.

Taking part in the 2019 Challenge Bowl

Giving up was obviously not an option, so I told him we’d simply try to figure out the pattern of right and wrong answers as we went along and see if we could beat the system. As with many things that come out of my mouth, it was mostly a joke. Mostly.

Yet the more we succeeded, the more I began to believe in my apparently undisputed ability to click the correct button at exactly the right time. Toward the end, things became more tense — wrong answers now cost points, while speed still mattered. Speed, however, was always on our side… because we didn’t really need to stop and think. The magic finger decided.

Victory in Sight

My partner could barely contain his laughter as we somehow kept pulling ahead, trolling our way up the scoreboard. As the final rounds approached and the prospect of actually winning became real, we both grew increasingly uneasy — and slightly horrified — by the effectiveness of our strategy.

The grand prize was $2,000 toward a trip to the national finals in Alberta.

I told my partner to imagine the two of us — complete clowns with minimal knowledge of the subject — marching into the national finals of a geophysics competition. If my enchanted button-clicking finger had carried us this far, surely it could take us even further. Barely a few months in Canada, and the Romanian was already trolling his way toward the top.

Almost got’em. Congratulations to the well deserved winners!

Fortunately for everyone involved, we just lost first place to a team that actually knew what they were doing. We happily took second place instead — grinning like idiots.

What a blast that was.

Evenings in Quebec

When we had time in the evenings, Alexandre and I wandered through Quebec City’s old town. It was easily the most European-looking place I had seen in Canada — or at least the most European part of a city. Cobblestone streets, old stone buildings, narrow alleys… I loved it.

Famous wall mural in Quebec’s old town center

Step just a few blocks outside of it, though, and you were instantly back in familiar North American territory. Wide roads, modern sprawl, and parking lots. It felt like a city within a city.

Still, it was several leagues above Chicoutimi, and it didn’t take long before we both found ourselves wishing we lived there instead. Once the conference wrapped up, we boarded the bus and headed back north to Saguenay — where a fully entrenched winter was now waiting for us.

The Final Grind

The rest of the semester passed in a blur of focused isolation. We hunkered down, grinding away on our research proposals and preparing for the decisive exam. At one point, I even recruited my mother over Skype to act as a practice audience for my presentation. Awkward? Very. Useful? Surprisingly so.

In the days leading up to the exam, I felt the need to give myself something to look forward to — a reminder that this wasn’t a life-or-death situation. A reward on the other side of the stress.

Greeted by the eternal white and cold back in Saguenay

Looking back, it was almost absurd to realize this was still the same year.
2019 had already seen me move back to Copenhagen, nearly relocate to Switzerland, embark on an unforgettable journey across Greece, visit Lithuania, and finally uproot my life to Canada.

So I decided to end it properly. One last adventure to crown the year of all years.

If I passed the exam…
I would go to New York for the Christmas holidays.